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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1944062 times)

36chambers

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#7050 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 12, 2023, 04:46:12 pm
I think what you've called Rachael's Box is actually Rachael's Box Variation and what you've called Rachael's Box Eliminate is the original Rachael's Box (or at least that's how I did them back in the day). If you could go and get a film of Triangular Roof on the same block and show me how it's possible at 6C+ that would be much appreciated!

I'm pretty sure Yorkshire Grit vol. 1 describes Rachael's Box this way too

for Triangular Roof beta see 15:15 here



(although I must say, I tried it this way and it still felt nails for 6C+)

Stabbsy

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#7051 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 13, 2023, 08:59:44 am
Yep, tried that and couldn’t do it. In fact, I think I remember asking on here before and you posting the same video! My guess is that the 6C+ version was lost in translation and is maybe the same as the LH version of Rachael’s Box, although still pretty harsh at 6C+.

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#7052 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 09:23:25 am
 Sheigra :)


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#7053 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 10:07:51 am
Nice one Scraggers. I'd definitely try that 7A sds if I was in the area.

The intro is well scary on full screen!

sxrxg

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#7054 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 10:20:21 am
Such a shame the campsite has now closed. Was a brilliant family spot.

Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks. I chose to do two separate trips the second time to get my pads over rather than feeling unbalanced trying to carry two full size pads.

Brilliant problems and stunning spot though (especially when the sun is setting over the sea), can't wait to get back up there.

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#7055 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 10:45:27 am
Nice one Scraggers. I'd definitely try that 7A sds if I was in the area.

The intro is well scary on full screen!

Cheers Fiend, lots to go at there but Robbie's guide is a little out of date{needs an update} so search around a bit to get the full list of lines and topos etc

Yeah i could see if ye monged off yer tits from last nights overindulgence it might seem a little trippy, whitey inducing  :P

scragrock

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#7056 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 10:50:15 am
Such a shame the campsite has now closed. Was a brilliant family spot.

Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks. I chose to do two separate trips the second time to get my pads over rather than feeling unbalanced trying to carry two full size pads.

Brilliant problems and stunning spot though (especially when the sun is setting over the sea), can't wait to get back up there.

Mmmmmm im a little conflicted by it being closed, the area is clearly regenerating after misuse so maybe it was the best thing longterm.

I agree completetly, its a well dodgy "downclimb" and scramble just to get to the blocs. Do Not hurt yourself here or its a Mountain rescue/lifeboat callout and a long wait for a Helicopter to Raigmore in Inverness.

sxrxg

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#7057 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 14, 2023, 11:01:27 am

Mmmmmm im a little conflicted by it being closed, the area is clearly regenerating after misuse so maybe it was the best thing longterm.


I understand why and am totally fine with it being shut especially as the last time I was there some of the use of the land was poor. People having fires in the evening, driving to spots clearly not open for camping and large motorhomes dumping grey water...

It is such a shame for me personally though as I have great memories playing in the sea and on the beach with the kids, getting dinner and putting them into bed before getting a couple of hours bouldering in on my own at sunset whilst the wife relaxed with wine and a book back at the campervan.

SA Chris

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#7058 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2023, 08:22:42 am
Had some amazing trips there too, bouldering on the beach, climbing on the crags, and surfing great waves at Oldshoremore (one while Simon Nadin was soloing above them). Long drive back to Aberdeen after active weekends and crap night sleeping in a tent.

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#7059 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2023, 10:39:38 pm
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.

Don't know how to make it much clearer. The guide says "To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down
the steep slab. The climbing is very easy, but the drop is rather daunting." That infers you have to climb in, not walk. Any suggestions.

For what it is worth, I really don't find it that bad. The rock is super secure and there are tonnes of massive hand/footholds. My legendary old dog Minnie could do it by herself, so it can't be that bad :) See 18m42 -

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#7060 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2023, 10:43:52 pm

.... Robbie's guide is a little out of date{needs an update} so search around a bit to get the full list of lines and topos etc


Yes, it's true. It's on the to do list.

Everything worthwhile I've done is documented on my recent youtube videos. Tomnomnom made a really nice video a couple years ago with some cool stuff (the new things are mostly at Rispond though). The only other new thing I can think of is Cold Steel SS by Calum Cunningham....

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#7061 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2023, 10:44:28 pm

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#7062 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 15, 2023, 10:45:53 pm
Double pad dab!

But Minnie, what a good girl  :wub:

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#7063 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 16, 2023, 06:55:12 am
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.

Don't know how to make it much clearer. The guide says "To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down
the steep slab. The climbing is very easy, but the drop is rather daunting." That infers you have to climb in, not walk. Any suggestions.

For what it is worth, I really don't find it that bad. The rock is super secure and there are tonnes of massive hand/footholds. My legendary old dog Minnie could do it by herself, so it can't be that bad :) See 18m42 -

Aye Robbie, i agree its very clear in your guide but many folk use UKC only or bits and bobs they have scraped together or forget that its a wee bit hairy getting down.

So i suppose we are just reminding folk of that particular hazard, still worth getting down to ;D

sxrxg

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#7064 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 16, 2023, 08:04:00 am
Also I think someone needs to highlight the access to the promontory more, it was way scarier than I expected getting down the descent and clambering over the wedged blocks.

Don't know how to make it much clearer. The guide says "To access the boulders, you need to down-climb or belay down
the steep slab. The climbing is very easy, but the drop is rather daunting." That infers you have to climb in, not walk. Any suggestions.

For what it is worth, I really don't find it that bad. The rock is super secure and there are tonnes of massive hand/footholds. My legendary old dog Minnie could do it by herself, so it can't be that bad :) See 18m42 -

Sorry for my poor language in the original post I wasn't inferring the guidebook information was the problem, I knew what I was getting myself in for. Just was trying to highlight to others that it does require care and can easily catch you out if you have had a chilled day with the family at the beach and then head across to the bouldering, the change of pace and the seriousness of the situation was quite a shock!

Thanks once again for all the guides/videos that you do put out, they are a great resource for someone like myself who only gets to head to Northwest once a year on a family holiday.

gardinrm

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#7065 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 16, 2023, 11:24:09 am
... they are a great resource for someone like myself who only gets to head to Northwest once a year on a family holiday.

In which case, you go more often than me! :) Heading up this summer for the first time in 2 years (which is also why the guide is out of date).

I'll try to make it clearer on the UKC page that the approach is quite serious.

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#7066 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 17, 2023, 04:49:10 pm
Dolly and I did this a couple of weeks ago and really enjoyed it.
I went back to do it again and it was still fun.
Start as for Huggy low start (sit if you are that sort of person) and move left to stand on the foot ledge of the slab.
Something like Font 6A.
I assume that lots of people have done this, but it is worth doing if you are in the area.


Duma

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#7067 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 18, 2023, 09:28:20 am
Top colour game lagers

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#7068 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 18, 2023, 08:51:04 pm
Top colour game lagers

I nearly went black t shirt to hide the massive gut and love handles.
I'm thinking blue braces and red t shirt next

webbo

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#7069 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 18, 2023, 08:58:38 pm
Nice long sleeved shirt with a waistcoat would look good and a decent fitting waistcoat can hide a lot. Or you could go for evening suit and cummerbund.

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#7070 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 21, 2023, 06:38:02 pm
Was lucky enough to spend 5 weeks in Font recently and put together a little film from it. Nothing fancy, but wanted to show off some of the boulders we climbed that trip as we spent a lot of time in some of the lesser travelled areas and thought there might be some for others to go and try on trips!

Fontainebleau // A Dream Trip in Bouldering Paradise

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#7071 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 23, 2023, 09:11:45 pm
A bit of Choss from when I trained during lockdown

https://youtube.com/shorts/7o8kjIm2qI0?feature=share

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#7072 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 31, 2023, 08:11:15 pm


Just a little video but the problem took some effort. For Duma maybe!

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#7073 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 31, 2023, 11:00:33 pm
Looking strong!

andy popp

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#7074 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 01, 2023, 04:29:49 am
I grew up a few minutes from Ladye Bay and feel like I spent most of my childhood exploring among the jumbled blocks and along the foreshore towards Portishead. Once I'd found climbing I began seeing it with different eyes.

I think I've only ever been back once since we left Clevedon when I was 16, so it's lovely to see this.

 

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