[monkoffunk]

Another one from the east weekend. This is practically a short film, so sorry about that, but its still a third the length of the Lappnor Project but with six times the number of problems! A little bit of NSFW language if you work somewhere lame.

[rginns]

Another one from the east weekend. This is practically a short film, so sorry about that, but its still a third the length of the Lappnor Project but with six times the number of problems! A little bit of NSFW language if you work somewhere lame.

Brilliant, really enjoyed that, good psyche and strong music choices there!! Good effort

[monkoffunk]

Thanks! Had fun making it.

[Wood FT]

enjoyed that

[lagerstarfish]

Dolly introduced me to the delightful Classic Arete Problem at Burbage South the other week

sorry about the colours here - due to a reluctant camera, poor light and editing on an inadequate laptop - I will go back one day in  nice evening light and do a better job

anyway - I think this is the original problem (I am aware that people climb it staying on the right of the arete as well), but I also enjoyed adding a couple of moves by starting at the the right arete

[Sasquatch]

[tomtom]

Moving well there Lagers...

[lagerstarfish]

Moving well there Lagers...

motions of confidence, innit

[Johnny Brown]

Interesting. I always do this but have never used that high hold on the face, which makes the swing round quite tricky. Will have to investigate whether you've just lanked it or not.

[dave]

I've always done it by getting RH on arete after getting LH on that horizontal around the arete, but always find it then desperate and bunched to bring feet around. Never noticed Lagers' high rh hold on the face.

Staying on the right all the way is arguably more logical but obviously neckier.

[lagerstarfish]

Dolly managed to do it using the high R hold, but didn't find it easy

it didn't feel hard to me, but I can't downgrade it, because Dolly tried so hard to finally get it after 13 years

I try to lank everything

[Nigel]

I was on this a couple of weeks ago, started of doing it the way I'd done it before - using arete to turn corner as Dave describes. Makes turning corner really quite hard and barndoory. The hold on right makes it a fair bit easier and means you can turn the corner in control and place your feet nicely. Its not lanking it as the hold is same level as arete hold as I recall? I've certainly never been accused of lank anyway, except by midgets. Basically its a better sequence.

[Bonjoy]

From what I recall the grade was based on the sequence Dave describes. Sound's like this is perhaps duff/eliminate so probably it ought to be graded lower for better sequence in next guide.

[lagerstarfish]

sounds like an excellent opportunity for the much underused 6C+ grade

[Johnny Brown]

Dear me times have changed. Where's Shark to tell us this nu-school clever dick sequence doesn't count?

[lagerstarfish]

Dear me times have changed. Where's Shark to tell us this nu-school clever dick sequence doesn't count?

he's now missed the deadline for raising an objection against an openly publicized sequence

[ehmarra]

Now then!! Just wanted to post a link to this short video, which just shows a few problems the idiliic Heron Stones has to offer. Bouldering right by a river in the middle of a Lake District valley is a great way to spend a few hours.
 

Cheers

[turnipturned]

Been a bit lazy with the vlog recently, work, life etc etc etc.

Anyway here is one from Fairhead. Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIOo0HpP7m0&feature=youtu.be

Might interest some, I think this is the best venue in the UK, cant wait to return.

[fatneck]

Strong claim! Certainly looks the part and the guide is great but surely would need a good spread of grades to claim that title? Maybe best venue in the UK for those climbing 7c?

[Sasquatch]

ok - Here is the last of the series for 2015-2016. Hope everyone likes it. 

[fatneck]

Nice work Todd! Really enjoyed these...

[Danny]

Strong claim! Certainly looks the part and the guide is great but surely would need a good spread of grades to claim that title? Maybe best venue in the UK for those climbing 7c?

Actually there is a fairly decent spread of grades once you look around. What it really lacks is a good 2-pad circuit.

[fatneck]

Inspiring climbing, terrible camera work and a disappointing lack of dabbage. Good effort Dom!

[andy_e]

That must have got a bit too cosy by the end of the trip!

[Wood FT]

Inspiring climbing, terrible camera work and a disappointing lack of dabbage. Good effort Dom!

Loved that, need more bad brains in climbing videos