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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1944124 times)

gcarmichael

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#4575 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 10:26:47 am

gcarmichael

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#4576 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 10:28:33 am

tomtom

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#4577 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 10:42:39 am
Some good high foot shennanigans there on JR... 7A+ my arse ;)

(doesn't it finish matched on the flake though....?)

highrepute

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#4578 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 04:27:16 pm
No it finishes on a hold just over the roof above where george drops off

mrjonathanr

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#4579 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 04:32:42 pm
Some good high foot shennanigans there on JR... 7A+ my arse ;)

I'm with you there. More like 7a with that sneaky left foot.

tomtom

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#4580 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 04:42:57 pm
Some good high foot shennanigans there on JR... 7A+ my arse ;)

I'm with you there. More like 7a with that sneaky left foot.

:D I meant more like 7B (with or without cheeky high feet!)

mrjonathanr

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#4581 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 14, 2015, 05:07:08 pm
Oops. Forgot this... ;) ;)

r-man

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#4582 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 10:55:38 am

tomtom

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#4583 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 11:05:48 am
Oh god, I'm going to start mentioning rules again... ;) I'll climb back into my ukb cupboard for a while...

dave

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#4584 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 11:07:29 am
No it finishes on a hold just over the roof above where george drops off

Standard finish is matched on flake for JR/CL/Pinch/Moffattrocity.

gcarmichael

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#4585 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 11:22:00 am
Oh so just needed to bring my right hand down to flake to match? or continue up higher? i'm a bit clueless when it comes to crag x!

cofe

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#4586 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 11:37:39 am
I remember when I told Jerry I'd done Moffatrocity, he asked me how I'd found the top-out.

a dense loner

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#4587 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 11:38:21 am
So is everyone else. That's limestone eliminates for you

Sidehaas

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#4588 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 12:45:12 pm
For what its worth I'm pretty sure where you finished (I was the guy in the background in the green trousers!) is correct, ie on the flake.  Neil just confused the video-watchers a bit by talking about the crimp (which is on the flake - he wasn't talking about the crimp people will remember to the left, or in the roof).
Unless the original finish did go over the roof, then there is nowhere further to go (and if there was it would be easy anyway, as you could do chin-ups off the holds on that flake, they are massive in opposition).
I like to think of it as a shield more than a flake.

dave

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#4589 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 12:53:42 pm
Unless the original finish did go over the roof,

Originally it will have topped out. But these days as a boulder problem everyone I've ever seen on it (bar I think one person, with a stack of pads) finished on the flake/crimp.

T_B

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#4590 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 01:44:23 pm
IIRC it's not really a fall-offable move to reach up from the flake to the dirty hold in the wall above (which used to be cleaner). Whereas you can fall off matching the flake + crimp and when you do match them it feels like a more natural finishing point to me.

mrjonathanr

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#4591 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 15, 2015, 09:25:16 pm
George's finish is the correct one IMO, ie a move past the flake.

r-man

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#4592 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 18, 2015, 02:43:03 pm
Enjoyed this.


tommytwotone

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#4593 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 19, 2015, 09:39:11 am
[blows own trumpet]







fatneck

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#4594 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 19, 2015, 01:00:34 pm
Snowden looks ace, need to visit (again in the dry)! Strong top too Mr Crane!  :weakbench:

tommytwotone

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#4595 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 19, 2015, 02:33:44 pm
It's the only thing that's strong about me at the moment!


That block at Snowden really is good if you're operating in the mid-6 / 7 range, still haven't really explored that much of the other stuff too. It was really warm / midgey a few weeks back when that was filmed but I'm assuming it'll be coming back into better nick now or soonish.




GCW

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#4596 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 19, 2015, 03:33:28 pm
There's some decent stuff on other blocks too, a good combo hit with other local crags.

Probes

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#4597 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 20, 2015, 11:55:19 am
Random Longridge..


monkey boy

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#4598 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 26, 2015, 08:36:40 am
A daft little video I made the other day.


PipeSmoke

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#4599 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
October 28, 2015, 12:01:08 pm

 

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