[kelvin]

It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.

Unless it's Peak limestone.

[tomtom]

8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528

Have you climbed at Dinas? All the holds look good but they are all at the wrong angle and all feel terrible... At least they did the 2 times I went there in Feb 2012.

It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.

I can think many traverses that would be grade 3/4 if you were allowed to use the floor :p

[a dense loner]

"Different footholds"?

[Duma]

James repeated CA via the original sequence at 8A+, I believe there's an easier way been found using a foothold way out right that makes it 7C+/8A

[b3n99]

Is carpenters apprentice fat cat into saluki or are there other rules?

[EdGowSmith]

James repeated CA via the original sequence at 8A+, I believe there's an easier way been found using a foothold way out right that makes it 7C+/8A

I thought the footholds out right could only be used if you're tall, and if you're shorter you have to use the closer footholds, making it harder? Could be wrong though.

Fyfe's on here somewhere...

[Beastly Squirrel]

Evening Gents,

To be brutally honest I never usually reply to UKB rubbish like this, only conditions reports. This being the exception that I couldn't work out whether 'a dense loner' was joking or not with that first comment. Adam Ondra makes 8C look like 7B+ and easier in videos so I don't get what you were trying to say, you know Carpenters Apprentice gets 8A+ but someone climbing it in a video makes it look like a 7B+ and that means... what? Maybe you should downgrade the Big Paw to 7A to add to your internet infused ego.

Thanks Ed, Jack and Duma for clarifying the problem. The Carpenters Apprentice starts sitting as for Fat Cat Roof (most logical place to start from sitting) but finishes on a blank face to the right involving an infamous press move. Some really tall people (Alex Mannion and Ben West for example) could stretch to a footblock/bulge down and right making the problem 7C+/8A but original line/beta still gets original 8A+.

Norman, there are no "rules" or eliminates or what ever you name them just a cool problem with tall man and small man beta.

Hope that clears things up.
 
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men. 

Happy climbing, James

[dave]

All he said was it looks about 7b+.

[willackers]

 
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men. 

[a dense loner]

Yes thanks for that beastly squirrel very informative

[Three Nine]

Evening Gents,

To be brutally honest I never usually reply to UKB rubbish like this, only conditions reports. This being the exception that I couldn't work out whether 'a dense loner' was joking or not with that first comment. Adam Ondra makes 8C look like 7B+ and easier in videos so I don't get what you were trying to say, you know Carpenters Apprentice gets 8A+ but someone climbing it in a video makes it look like a 7B+ and that means... what? Maybe you should downgrade the Big Paw to 7A to add to your internet infused ego.

Thanks Ed, Jack and Duma for clarifying the problem. The Carpenters Apprentice starts sitting as for Fat Cat Roof (most logical place to start from sitting) but finishes on a blank face to the right involving an infamous press move. Some really tall people (Alex Mannion and Ben West for example) could stretch to a footblock/bulge down and right making the problem 7C+/8A but original line/beta still gets original 8A+.

Norman, there are no "rules" or eliminates or what ever you name them just a cool problem with tall man and small man beta.

Hope that clears things up.
 
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men. 

Happy climbing, James

My 2p, Beastly Squirrel ( ), is I think you're an arrogant little prick. BUT I think you climb the problem very well in the video. Problem looks good too. I obviously have no opinion about the grade.

[joble]

Good contribution mark, clear rational thoughts as ever.  The voice of reason 

[Three Nine]

I do my best for you. How's your Tommy Caldwell impression coming along?

[abarro81]

I like BSs post - insult everyone, compare yourself to AO, then challenge Dense to a fight. Strong entry to a thread.

[andy popp]

I've only met James once but he came across as anything but an 'arrogant little prick' - just super keen.

[a dense loner]

Was thinking the same barrows, fantastic.

BS can you pls reply to some of slopers posts? Make my day

[tomtom]

Who can we hear on the video BS? Is it people you were with or random passers by?

[Jaspersharpe]

I like BSs post - insult everyone, compare yourself to AO, then challenge Dense to a fight. Strong entry to a thread.

 


I know nothing of this problem but I thought it looked quite hard. However having followed this link......

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528

....and clicked a few things I found this....

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=340123

... which, at the risk of being offered out for a fight, surely has to be some sort of joke. 

Either that or BS is actually Percy in disguise.

[Beastly Squirrel]

Opps sorry didn't mean to come across arrogant. I was just annoyed at people for downgrading stuff they havent climbed. 

[b3n99]

Please feel free to ignore this post and continue with the hilarity of the last page.


p.s. All these problems I make look about 8A but i can assure you they aren't that hard

[Three Nine]

Opps sorry didn't mean to come across arrogant. I was just annoyed at people for downgrading stuff they havent climbed.

You just ruined it Irenic Squirrel - give Dense some shit.

[peewee]

A small video from my recent trip to the Rocklands!

[a dense loner]

You were annoyed at people downgrading stuff they haven't climbed? God you must be new to climbing

[tommytwotone]

Found this while looking for beta - the meat of it is pretty much as I expected, but did find an interesting approach to topping out:

[tomtom]

Found this while looking for beta - the meat of it is pretty much as I expected, but did find an interesting approach to topping out:

Funnily enough that video has drained any (small amounts) of enthusiasm I had for trying this problem tonight :D I'll spot yer 3T, but that just looks grim!