[a dense loner]

Liked the Norfolk vid.

A quick aside 'the owner has not made this vid available to mobiles'. Why do people do this? Or is it not a conscious choice?

[Doylo]

Sometimes YouTube block it from being played on mobiles if there's some music copyright.

[fatneck]

Another Lotus vid... Nicely done Mike!

[a dense loner]

I thought lotus went straight up at the last move? I could be mistaken tho I don't think I've seen any beta for it before

[Doylo]

Crazy beta there and he finishes more on the left than most people. They'll be more videos of Lotus than Baby Buddha soon!

[spid3rz]

Really enjoyed the Norfolk video

[JackAus]

Blocked for copyright here...

Is on Vimeo too.

[mr__j5]

Since that's Sean's Roof area, here's another one from there

[zloty_dziecko]

Bit of a highball, The Pride.

[tomtom]

Too hot for grit?

[a dense loner]

That's not Sean's roof tomtom!!! Can't stand it when people vary the vids a bit

[Andy B]

That's not Sheep Sitter either.

Is that the definitive Boston Mess Dense? (genuine question, I've never had a clue!)

[rodma]

Is that the definitive Boston Mess Dense? (genuine question, I've never had a clue!)

Hmm

I've done it from there too, but therefore thought i hadn't started in the right place

[Dolph]

I wasn't sure myself about Boston Mess, hence the ? in the vid. I've climbed that problem so many different ways in the past. I couldn't remember and went of a description read out to me from the new Rock fax guide.

With the sheep sitter I'm surprised to get called out on this as I've always done it this way. Surely it's the crack climbed from sitting, only using the crack? Fair enough if not but where does the problem actually go then out of interest?

[Andy B]

Hiya Mike. From memory, that is Sickle Crack sitter. The Sheep Sitter stays on the right side of the crack the whole way, with a really awkward, off balance start from a hand jam.

[tomtom]

Sorry for posting your vid unannounced Mike - just saw it and thought it worthy of putting up
Didnt think it would strike up some debate etc...

[r-man]

I think we went through this a while ago, and what I put on peakbouldering seemed to be the conclusion:

Boston Mess Original 7C+
Rules: Start from a low undercut (not quite a sitstart), pull on, go left to furthest left undercut, right hand to middle undercut (crux), then use other holds to gain the ledge above. (What Mike did)

Boston Mess Sidepulls 7A+
Pull on to the left-hand undercuts and climb to the ledge.

Boston Mess Standing Start 6C

Boston Mess Jump 7B
Pull on to the low undercuts and jump to the ledge.

Presumably the jump goes to the lower right ledge?

[Dolph]

No worries about the debate, it's all healthy.

There are only two sit problems on the Sheep boulder. The first goes straight up the arête and is low 7's. The second is The Sheep Sitter, which obviously doesn't use the arête. The way I climbed this felt about right for the grade and much nicer than fist jamming anything. maybe this is just another way of doing it? Apologies if my sequence offends anyone.

[Andy B]

I'm home now and have checked the guide. It's how I said earlier, although I certainly wouldn't dispute that Sickle Crack Sitter is much nicer.

[a dense loner]

I didn't go as far left as mike with my feet. It's been nowhere near a sitting start ever tho. Think Ned may have said he did it from sitting at 8a? Could be imagining that. I thought the crux was to take my right foot off the lowest hold. Looks like mike also used the chip for his foot(?)

[Dolph]

I agree that to do a sit coming in from the right is way harder than 7b+. I've also checked the guide Andy and it's like I said. Sickle crack uses the arete and goes straight up! Which I did not, instead moving right.: hence sheep sit in my mind.

[r-man]

I think Dense was talking about Boston Mess having the rumoured 8A sitter.

[a dense loner]

R man your lists are messing with your mind 
Dolphs referring to the sickle sheep crack debacle. On another note the left hand on talk to me martin looked huge, is this the case dolph or did you climb it with Velcro on your hands? Made it look piss.
Need to do little pig, I always forget about it

[Dolph]

Oops I didn't think that through. I think R man is right about Dense talking about Boston Mess. Yep I went out left to the chip and jumped from there.  The crux is defo moving your right foot of the low edge and getting your feet up on Boston Mess.

I still stand by the fact that a sitting start on the right to the sheep would be harder than 7b+. I've got a bee in my bonnet about this as it was a really nice couple of tension moves. Also I've always interpreted the problems that way. I think in the past I have tried to do a sit on the right and it was awkward bordering on impossible, as the ground drops away. Has anyone actually done this?

The left hand on TTMM is not huge is a poor sloper. I normally climb this more stylishly using intermediates. It however was too hot and I didn't have the time on the left hand. So I just jumped.

[a dense loner]

I know it's a poor sloper I thought it might have got bigger since you pissed it! I know it gets 7b+ but it's absolutely desparate!