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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1944449 times)

andy popp

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#3475 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 11:42:25 am


Latest random bits from the past few months, the lack of climbing on my behalf sums it up well..

What's the second prob on that vid - thing with the left heel hook mantle?

 Its on the Hueco Blocs under Dovestone Tor, Derwent Edges. I don't know what that version is called/graded but I did the FA of the stand. Really lovely bits of rock.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2013, 12:12:06 pm by andy popp »

luckyjez

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#3476 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 11:57:40 am

Think I may have a FA photo of that - were we out with Ben P that day?

Grubes

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#3477 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 12:22:05 pm
Its got to the point where if I rocked out right I feel I would be cheating myself out of a tick

Gritlad

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#3478 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 12:49:32 pm
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.

andy_e

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#3479 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 01:25:18 pm
Grubes, it's slightly easier yet slightly scarier so I reckon the triumph would be just as good.

nai

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#3480 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 02:18:36 pm
Its got to the point where if I rocked out right I feel I would be cheating myself out of a tick

Quote
yeah but that's how you do it though isn't it?
Graded for easiest method, perfectly allowed

ardeer

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#3481 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 10:13:29 pm
"hood heel beta" ghetto steez....

tomtom

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#3482 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 10:28:41 pm
Grubes- match the nose and rock out right.

+1 Match nose with a guppy that you can bounce up if you like...

Use your TOE (not heel) on the edge/pocket on the lip out right and as you come onto it - it all works.

Scratched forearms are requisite for a first tick. ;)

andy_e

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#3483 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2013, 11:24:05 pm
Aye, get it climbed!

Bonjoy

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#3484 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2013, 12:50:27 pm
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.
Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+

andy popp

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#3485 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2013, 01:12:52 pm
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.
Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+

I also did a another version of the stand using the other side of the arete/groove feature. There were two worthwhile problems on the obvious low block to the right. Are they still included in modern guides?

r-man

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#3486 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2013, 02:14:21 pm
Ondra trying some projects


Bonjoy

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#3487 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2013, 07:58:55 pm
Its called The Dove from Above, done by rich heap and Ben p first. Jon reckoned 7B but it felt pretty tricky to me, jon got some hood heel beta bit I couldn't figure it. Great bit of rock.
Also added a good right hand start coming out of the cave (bigger than it appears on vid) - The Crow from Below 7a+

I also did a another version of the stand using the other side of the arete/groove feature. There were two worthwhile problems on the obvious low block to the right. Are they still included in modern guides?
I was going to finish the cave prob up there but couldn't figure a non dabby way to get established in the groove.
Yes i think they're mentioned in the BMC book at least.

Andy Harris

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#3488 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2013, 08:22:57 pm
Nice vid of the dove from above. Rich and myself did that some years ago. Thought it was a great little problem. Can't really remember but sure we held a crimp under the roof with RH then went up to the arete with left. The only guppies that existed in them days were the ones you netted from the local ponds ;)

tommytwotone

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#3489 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 10:21:22 am
In the course of sorting out by old DV camcorder for flogging on eBay I found a load of old footage so cobbled together a little video. Nothing dramatic but there are a few classics on there - apologies in advance for shaky camerawork!





fatneck

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#3490 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 10:37:49 am
No way!!! Is that Rich "The Hitman" Hatton on NTBTA? Erstwhile plastic scouser nice guy beast tick...

tommytwotone

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#3491 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 11:17:50 am
No way!!! Is that Rich "The Hitman" Hatton on NTBTA? Erstwhile plastic scouser nice guy beast tick...

It is!

Meant to mention that at 5:05, that's fatboyslimfast of this parish, spotted by Bubba...can't recall the problem names but it's Eagle Tor.



slackline

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#3492 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 12:07:32 pm


 :lol:

r-man

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#3493 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 12:16:31 pm
The rocks are all bigger for nine year olds...

http//vimeo.com/79325317

granticus

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#3494 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 12:47:19 pm


 :lol:

 :lol:  I grew up in Warwickshire, looks like Burton Dassett Hills to me, desperate times.  Negotiating access to the boulder at Compton Verney or heading to Leicestershire are gonna be better options. 

r-man

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#3495 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 01:15:24 pm
Take 2. The rocks are all bigger for nine year olds.


Doylo

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#3496 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 04:45:46 pm
Welsh LGP

Nibile

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#3497 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 09:07:33 pm
Wow!
And here is a video from a guy who came to Siena for the Street Boulder Contest two weeks ago. It's nice!

SA Chris

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#3498 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 10:11:38 pm
Welsh LGP


Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.

Adam Lincoln

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#3499 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2013, 10:31:05 pm
Welsh LGP


Great looking piece of rock. I would keep that card close to my chest.

Hard to find and need a load of pads. So hopefully dafe till spring!

 

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