[r-man]

Sorry, didn’t realise my response would offend anyone. Access if fine, no there not a secret, routes 30 metres away were put up in the 70’s. Like so many areas of the Churnet just forgotten about and not revisited in the last 20/30 years. 
I guess I was just trying to keep things hush hush until the guide comes out to make it more impressive. As I said to cofe last year I feel like a dj who is just about to drop the needle onto the most sort after bit of vinyl.
I’ll throw it out to you guys would you want to wait or do you want me to post the location of this roof??
Sorry again if I came across as a bit of a dick.

I see where you're coming from, but I think if anything you'll generate more interest in the guide by telling the super keen how to get to these places. They'll then enthuse about the climbing and the upcoming guide to their friends, and all of them will be keen to buy the guide.

I've noticed this with the moors bouldering I've been documenting recently - have told lots of people where it is and all about it. Most of them are very excited about the new areas, but most of them will also wait till the guide comes out so they have full details when they visit. Only a small percentage of climbers ever goes to a new crag without a guidebook.

[dave]

Nice. Thought Spider Crack was an eliminate though - going from crack to sloper up and right. Or maybe I was being foolish by copying another big Ron sequence?

It just eliminates the arete, shirley.

[r-man]

Dunno. Perhaps it's one of those problems that has evolved more sensible rules. Like I said, I copied Ron because he happened to be there doing his circuit. I assumed he did the traditionally accepted problem, but perhaps it was just a bad sequence! I remember it being a fairly tough move, and quite good.

[Davo]

Hi Rainbow

Am not offended at all. No probs there.

Personally I would be keen to know where the roof is and will buy the guide when it comes out. I agree with the idea that by telling people now about the areas you will generate more excitement and more people will want to buy the guide.

Up to you what you do, I was probably just going to have a look sometime this month if I knew where it was.

Cheers Dave

[rainbow]

I see where you're coming from, but I think if anything you'll generate more interest in the guide by telling the super keen how to get to these places. They'll then enthuse about the climbing and the upcoming guide to their friends, and all of them will be keen to buy the guide.
I've noticed this with the moors bouldering I've been documenting recently - have told lots of people where it is and all about it. Most of them are very excited about the new areas, but most of them will also wait till the guide comes out so they have full details when they visit. Only a small percentage of climbers ever goes to a new crag without a guidebook.

Having read that, it makes perfect sense what you are saying. Giving people a chance to sample a few things before the guide comes out will only help to generate interest and intrigue futher. I do have strange way of looking at things at times. 
 

Hi Rainbow
Am not offended at all. No probs there.
Personally I would be keen to know where the roof is and will buy the guide when it comes out. I agree with the idea that by telling people now about the areas you will generate more excitement and more people will want to buy the guide.
Up to you what you do, I was probably just going to have a look sometime this month if I knew where it was.
Cheers Dave

Another reason why I was vague is I know its unlikely for the top to dry out again this year so didn't want people to be disappointed and have a wasted journey. However another quality block is 30 metres away and dry most of the year so that will give everyone a chance to get their teeth into something.
What I'll do tomorrow night is post on the other thread directions to the roof and block just beyond it and if anyone wants a topo of whats on offer just pm me your email address and I'll glady send one over.

[Davo]

Sweet, shall check them out soon.

Looking forward to the guide

Dave

[rginns]

Sorry, didn’t realise my response would offend anyone. Access if fine, no there not a secret, routes 30 metres away were put up in the 70’s. Like so many areas of the Churnet just forgotten about and not revisited in the last 20/30 years. 
I guess I was just trying to keep things hush hush until the guide comes out to make it more impressive. As I said to cofe last year I feel like a dj who is just about to drop the needle onto the most sort after bit of vinyl.
I’ll throw it out to you guys would you want to wait or do you want me to post the location of this roof??
Sorry again if I came across as a bit of a dick.

I see where you're coming from, but I think if anything you'll generate more interest in the guide by telling the super keen how to get to these places. They'll then enthuse about the climbing and the upcoming guide to their friends, and all of them will be keen to buy the guide.

I've noticed this with the moors bouldering I've been documenting recently - have told lots of people where it is and all about it. Most of them are very excited about the new areas, but most of them will also wait till the guide comes out so they have full details when they visit. Only a small percentage of climbers ever goes to a new crag without a guidebook.

[dave]

Dunno. Perhaps it's one of those problems that has evolved more sensible rules. Like I said, I copied Ron because he happened to be there doing his circuit. I assumed he did the traditionally accepted problem, but perhaps it was just a bad sequence! I remember it being a fairly tough move, and quite good.

It is a good move, and I think its the way I first did the standup, but logically in terms of standard described named problems it would look a bit daft to say "climb this crack problem using the crack, but eliminate one part of the crack right at the top."  Thats not to say you can't eliminate whatever you want, but logical "avoid the arete" type eliminates need to stay logical.

It was probably just the case that ron hadn't spotted that hold at the top of the crack. And hence a lesson on how casual missed sequences and coincidences snowball into "accepted sequences" and rules etc.

[JackAus]

Good video. Bad remix of a good song.

[ducko]

recent video from my trip to font with friends.
interested in any opinions regrading the editing of the video as to improve my next effort!

ta! 

[Dr T]

recent video from my trip to font with friends.
interested in any opinions regrading the editing of the video as to improve my next effort!

ta! 

Take out the "s" for the embed!

[JackAus]

[JackAus]

[JackAus]

^^ Yeah I noticed its in the Quality thread too...

[gardinrm]

Some more climbing in the North West of Scotland

[Stewart]

Liking the Sheigra vid - looks great.

Resistance is Foot-Heel? 

[Adam Lincoln]

Some more climbing in the North West of Scotland

Where is this stuff in relation to the campsite? Are you going to document it in a topo?

[ferret]

woops

[JackAus]

Really terrible. Barely any climbing in it...

[SA Chris]

Liking the Sheigra vid - looks great.

Resistance is Foot-Heel? 

I think it's a great name.

Zeus looks amazing.

Is the crag in the background at 11:15 or so Cnoc an Stac? If so NW Eliminate looks brutal.

Fancy a trip Adam? Might even get you surfing!

[andy_e]

Resistance is Foot-Heel? 

I think it's a great name.

Zeus does indeed look amazing. I was hoping that arete would be climbed as I was wtaching the problem before it! Top marks for effort, looks terrifying!

[andy popp]

Not only Zeus but that whole Land of Giants zone looks brilliant. Sandstone?

[SA Chris]

Yes, but quite coarse and pebbly, sometimes in distinct layers. The crags round there are mostly high quality gneiss though.

[gardinrm]

Some more climbing in the North West of Scotland

Where is this stuff in relation to the campsite? Are you going to document it in a topo?

Thanks for comments. Was an awesome trip.
It is mostly north of the campsite but it will all be detailed in a topo i am making at the moment. In all we have about 60 problems from font 4-7a. There are also some projects, but most of the stuff we climbed was done quickly. We went for volume rather than difficulty, but there are certainly hard lines. A more focussed look at these problems (a couple of which will be detailed in the guide)  or a visiting power merchant will open some brilliant lines.

[gardinrm]

Is the crag in the background at 11:15 or so Cnoc an Stac? If so NW Eliminate looks brutal.

That isn't Cnoc and Staca. The boulder i'm climbing on at that point has fallen from Cnoc and Staca, and so the crag is up and right of that shot. In the guide there will be pretty clear photos of this that should hopefully make it all clear. Where do people reckon i should post the guide so people can get it easily?