[a dense loner]

Peewee I take it the guy on souvenir is tall? When you go back to do vitruvian man from the start you could spot Michele doing delusions from the start. I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
Nice little vid tho

[slackline]

I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.

Maybe they did video it, but edited it out just to fuck with you. 

[andy_e]

I think he means that Pete climbed it from a move in.

[a dense loner]

Earth to andy, I think slackers knows this

[Bonjoy]

Maybe he got the beta off the same guy who told you how to climb Conviction 

[Johnny Brown]

Oof!

[a dense loner]

That came a hour and one minute after I expected it. Why do people think I know so much about where probs start now? Once bitten...

As an aside one of my first girlfriends used to mock me for saying "an hour" and writing it as such. She was very clever, read english at oxford, and I was very thick, read not much at oldham. Does anyone else say "an hour" or is it just my dulcet tones?

[andy popp]

I'd say 'an' hour, as I would say 'an' historian. 

[slackline]

I'd say 'an' hour, as I would say 'an' historian. 

  although it breaks the common rule because 'h' isn't a vowel (but then rules were made to be broken just as boulder problems were put up without knee-pads).

[peewee]

Peewee I take it the guy on souvenir is tall? When you go back to do vitruvian man from the start you could spot Michele doing delusions from the start. I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
Nice little vid tho

Hi Dense,

The guy climbing Souvenir is me, im only 5ft 8 but got long arms. Where is the actual start on Vitruvian? both hands on the jug on the side?

[Nigel]

Don't think you need do defend your height on Souvenir, I'm 5'9" with 0 ape index and this is how I was trying it when I had a session on it. Actually felt less height dependant than trying to bump again into the small pocket (and a much nicer sequence). C'mon Dense everyone hates tall people but this guy looks innocent.

Had to laugh at the Conviction comment 

[abarro81]

  Strangely enough, I would say "an hour" but "a historian/house/histogram etc". No idea why, just an anomalous n.

[peewee]

Actually felt less height dependant than trying to bump again into the small pocket (and a much nicer sequence). C'mon Dense everyone hates tall people but this guy looks innocent.

I tried the pocket/pinch method and found it to painful on the fingers.

[andy_e]

It's not really anomalous, the first sound in 'hour' is a vowel sound, hence 'an'. The first sound in 'historian' is a consonant sound, hence 'a'. Otherwise you end up sounding like this sack of doorknobs...

[a dense loner]

I'd say 'an' hour, as I would say 'an' historian. 

As I suspected! Stupid cow. She made me spend 18yrs thinking I couldn't speak the Queens England!

Was askin if he was tall since I'm 5ft 10 n half n face is buried in rock if I span from big undercut to sloper, n I've got long arms. No I wasn't sagging. It wasn't a tall hunt, was intrigued.

Yeh both hands on jug, but it doesn't matter, nothing does

[peewee]

I found putting the heel up first then slapping to the sloper easier, i could just about do the move with the foot lower but my face is flat against the rock.

[Richie Crouch]

Don't think it makes a difference where you started on Vitruvian as the first move is about 1B. Holding the lip swing is the only hard move on it! Thought it was harder than souvenir like but what do I know, I'm a lanky c*nt 

[a dense loner]

Don't think it matters where u start? That's about summed it up for me

[Richie Crouch]

 

[Doylo]

Ha ha . UKB is good at the moment!

[mrjonathanr]

  although it breaks the common rule because 'h' isn't a vowel (but then rules were made to be broken just as boulder problems were put up without knee-pads).

Did cave-men start writing little post-its to communicate to each other first, or was spoken language later followed by written forms? It's the sound that determines the 'rule' - writing is just a way of codifying this. Like a silent echo.

Phonotactics - the rules of sound combination- is effectively an analysis of recurrent patterns of usage.  And if it's arduous to separate two vowel sounds,  people don't do it, they find the easier utterance. It's the big driver of linguistic change. That we have silent letters and other improbable letter combinations indicates where these words came from, a totally different linguistic environment - English deriving from Celtic,  German, Danish, French and Latin, in that order (Church rather than Roman Latin).

[highrepute]

Peewee I take it the guy on souvenir is tall? When you go back to do vitruvian man from the start you could spot Michele doing delusions from the start. I still, in all my yrs, have no idea why people would go through the trouble videoing themselves without a first move. Bizarre.
Nice little vid tho

Hi Dense,

The guy climbing Souvenir is me, im only 5ft 8 but got long arms. Where is the actual start on Vitruvian? both hands on the jug on the side?

accused of being tall and actually being a short arse. Add a grade!

[a dense loner]

But since the internets a bit slow at times here I could only watch one prob at a time, ie with a resting time of approx 10mins between probs. So I went from souvenir thinking this guys tall, it's a long move, to vitruvian thinking this guys tiny, he doesn't really need to pick his feet up. So add a grade but take one off for being to chameleon-like

[Bonjoy]

I’m going to have to call you out again on this Dense. Chameleons merely change colour. If you want a size changing animal simile I’d go for something like a puffer fish, or a toad.

[Johnny Brown]

They just inflate, we're talking overall length change here. Perhaps a slug or a leech?