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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1944369 times)

Duma

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#2600 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 11, 2012, 11:53:52 pm
That is a good day! Did you get The Storm?

SA Chris

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#2601 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 10:15:13 am
A masterclass in highball grit pedalling  ;)

Not kidding. Remarkably maintaining 4 points of contact but still moving upwards.

abarro81

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#2602 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 10:57:12 am


A lack of footage due to rain, busyness and the battery running out, but it shows enough to disgust all kneebar haters.

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#2603 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 11:28:51 am
That's amazing, it's like applying a whole different climbing language to the problem!

Gritlad

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#2604 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 02:58:11 pm
That is a good day! Did you get The Storm?

Cheers, I have done Deliverance and Brad Pitt before though  :guilty:
Nah, kept getting to the same point in the video but the extra bit I couldn't get. Any beta would be great!

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#2605 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 03:16:02 pm
Any beta would be great!

Have you tried heel instead of toe? (With the heel) I found the key was not to look too soon - as soon as you look at the hold you're going to it seems to force you out. Try to delay looking at it for as long as possible.

Gritlad

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#2606 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 03:21:30 pm
cheers yeah I briefly tried getting the heel on but couldnt figure out the feet to get it on, was moaning its too bunched but if you've done it i've got no excuse.....
 

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#2607 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 04:27:28 pm


A lack of footage due to rain, busyness and the battery running out, but it shows enough to disgust all kneebar haters.

I think you just convinced me to buy a second kneepad. I just milked the life out of mine in font, it's brilliant.

nai

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#2608 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 04:55:43 pm
Any beta would be great!

Have you tried heel instead of toe? (With the heel) I found the key was not to look too soon - as soon as you look at the hold you're going to it seems to force you out. Try to delay looking at it for as long as possible.

Heel yes, but also don't reach so soon, keep both hands on while you make the rock-over, maybe even palm down with the left.  Rock-over as far as you possibly can then make the reach, then rock-over a bit more.

Bonjoy

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#2609 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 05:00:32 pm
cheers yeah I briefly tried getting the heel on but couldnt figure out the feet to get it on, was moaning its too bunched but if you've done it i've got no excuse.....
As the others have said re the heel and not turning head too early. I found it easiest to get the heel up by matching the hold you have with your RH, pull up a bit, then throw it up.

dave

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#2610 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 05:49:52 pm
cheers yeah I briefly tried getting the heel on but couldnt figure out the feet to get it on, was moaning its too bunched but if you've done it i've got no excuse.....
As the others have said re the heel and not turning head too early. I found it easiest to get the heel up by matching the hold you have with your RH, pull up a bit, then throw it up.

+1. After trying it a fair bit I switched to matching the top hold and did it in about two more goes.

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#2611 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 06:13:10 pm
Quote
I found the key was not to look too soon - as soon as you look at the hold you're going to it seems to force you out. Try to delay looking at it for as long as possible.

That's good advice, but I don't think its anything to do with head position - more like summit fever tempting you to try to shortcut/ lank the move. The real key is to concentrate on rocking leftwards rather than upwards - and working on getting your hips up not your hands. If you get far enough left the weight goes onto your foot and you can make the reach more easily. I use the heel but at your height I daresay the toe will work.

Gritlad

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#2612 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 12, 2012, 07:15:03 pm
Cheers for the advice. Was very much so trying to lank the move after seeing it on the video, will try the heel more aswell next time.
Best get the lantern on charge  :)

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#2613 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 13, 2012, 01:43:59 pm
Bit of chuff in there too


SA Chris

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#2614 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 08:26:35 am
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?

slackline

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#2615 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 09:22:22 am
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?

Better still, use their actual names rather than making them up.  :tease:

Wood FT

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#2616 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 09:41:59 am
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?
oh yes, bit lazy that, I have on the vimeo description.

Spine Chiller start V5, Froggatt
Hard Cheddar, an old E5, dont know the boulder grade, 6B maybe?, Froggatt
Oedipus Ring Your Mother, E4, Froggatt
Jerrys Arete, 7A, RHS
Dry Wit in a Wet Country, 7A+, RHS
Kaluza Klein, E7, RHS

Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?

Better still, use their actual names rather than making them up.  :tease:

what do you mean Slackers?  :shrug: (can't go on vimeo at work)

SA Chris

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#2617 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 09:56:42 am
I think he's having a dig at your "Frogatt" with a single g at the start.

And cheers for probs list.

Wood FT

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#2618 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 09:59:16 am
fair enough, schoolboy error

slackline

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#2619 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 14, 2012, 10:03:50 am
Good stuff, but can you give things names for those of us not intimately familiar with every square foot of peak grit?

Better still, use their actual names rather than making them up.  :tease:

what do you mean Slackers?  :shrug: (can't go on vimeo at work)

It was a poor joke  :sorry:  I hadn't even clocked a mis-spelling of Froggatt.

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#2620 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 26, 2012, 12:05:05 pm
A few bits from my trip to Switzerland last week.


andy_e

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#2621 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 26, 2012, 12:33:26 pm
"This site has been blocked by your network administrator. Reason: nudism." Um, whut?

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#2622 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 26, 2012, 10:32:42 pm


late summer visit

Wood FT

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#2623 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 26, 2012, 10:40:07 pm

Bonjoy

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#2624 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 27, 2012, 09:14:18 pm
Nice one yoot. Good to see the dangling spiders eggs make an appearance. Kinder vid next?

 

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