[Richie Crouch]

Great effort, you pissed that! Never seen that sequence on BH or BC direct before, good to see some new beta i.e. cross handed on the good bit to slap to the lip, then a heel and right hand over off the undercut, powerful stuff :D

[superfurrymonkey]

 
I'm guessing you're quite tall to start BH like that Will? I'd be interested to see if I could start like that as I have problems getting my heel on the other way but I'm almost sure at 5'8 I'm not tall enough!?

[Adam Lincoln]

I'm guessing you're quite tall

 

[superfurrymonkey]

So he's a person of restricted growth  Sorry if I've insulted you Will 

[willackers]

I'm not tall I just climb with small people 

What is the normal beta on Broken Heart? There were no locals there so I worked out my own beta which is never a good thing 

[superfurrymonkey]

You throw out to the same hold but with your left foot under the roof and your right on the slopey hold near the start of Lou Ferrino,  then walk your feet round put your right heel on the sloper near the rail on LF and then get the heel toe in a la your starting position.

[Doylo]

Ye not only is he a lanky cheating bastard but he's also so tall he can miss half the foot moves out! 

[willackers]

Ye not only is he a lanky cheating bastard but he's also so tall he can miss half the foot moves out! 

f you can put the heel and toe in when you have the crimp then surely you can reach the crimp if you put the heel and toe in first?, no?

I don't know what you local boys have been playing at! 

[Doylo]

There's plenty of silly sausages who still do it the harder way

[Steve R]

from a recent day doing Streaky's Traverse and Rocky: (+training montage inspired by the latter)

[andy_e]

Kneet little video there.

[philo]

vid of some friends in rocklands doing some med range problems

[benj_d]

vid of some friends in rocklands doing some med range problems

You cant call adam cruising an 8b 'med range' hehe.

Cracking vid though phil, i can see why everyone is raving on about rocklands. Really liked the look of that first problem porter was on and the one after the juggling.

[Richie Crouch]

Some scallies went to Font and got shut down so got pissed and climbed some low to mid 7's instead 

[dontfollowme]

Nice Vid Richie.

[willackers]

Nice one! 

[GCW]

Very nice.  Not sure about all the random pointing though 

[andy_e]

Nice one mark! That vid was amazing. Rich, how can you claim the 6b flash when you quite clearly dabbed hoppo's hand?

[Richie Crouch]

Back around I guess 

[Nibile]

[b3n99]

Just a quick (not very high quality due to lack of software) video of my latest trip to font.

[nik at work]

Isn't Diversion a sit start?

[Krank]

it certainly is

[Andy B]

I was just about to say that it was nice to see someone bothering to sit start Lapin Ou Canard as well.

[b3n99]

Got told while there that despite being an 'assis' it was actually a crouch. Seemed odd at the time but with the sit start it seemed harder than 7b so gave it a miss, will have to go back and do it the proper way! Cheers for notifying.

Also it says start on right hand pinch (im guessing it's the one im on) so can you start with a doublelayer of pads as a could hardly sit and reach it, let alone pull!