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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1944011 times)

GCW

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#875 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 21, 2009, 04:03:20 pm
Emo said you'd been.
I don't think it'll embed from windoze, we may need to download from here: 

TomP

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#876 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 21, 2009, 04:27:33 pm
Should be on Vimeo in a mo.

Andy B

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#877 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 21, 2009, 05:51:41 pm
Sorry Tom. Unless I'm mistaken, that looks like an alternative sequence to The Bizarre Ride, claimed by Gangle recently.

dave

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#878 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 21, 2009, 06:34:24 pm
yep, this is the same thing, i think there's also a sequence that uses some holds nearer the crack in addition to the big thing in the roof. There's a thread about it on here somewhere.

TomP

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#879 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 21, 2009, 07:13:29 pm
I went with nacho who said about what tom did but said it was a proj to do it direct as per vid. Tom used holds out left which I didn't use. this was a proj that ned and nacho were trying.

Ru

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#880 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:36:09 am
I also think this is the same thing as Tom's problem. I was told that Tom used a hold out left near the crack, but I repeated it like this about 6 (?) weeks ago after a couple of sessions (i.e. without the left hold) because I couldn't do Tom's version. Good addition to the crag.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2009, 09:46:05 am by Ru, Reason: Think it was a bit longer than a month ago actually. »

monkey boy

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#881 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:38:29 am
Sorry Tom. Unless I'm mistaken, that looks like an alternative sequence to The Bizarre Ride, claimed by Gangle recently.

I went with nacho who said about what tom did but said it was a proj to do it direct as per vid. Tom used holds out left which I didn't use. this was a proj that ned and nacho were trying.


Your kinda both right. I think it is just a version of bizarre ride, ned tried it this way cause he said the other way hurt his skin too much and nacho just wanted to do it that way. Looks a good variant though nice one tom

monkey boy

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#882 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:39:16 am
I also think this is the same thing as Tom's problem. I think Tom used a hold out left near the crack, but I repeated it like this about a month ago (i.e. without the left hold) because I couldn't do Tom's version.

Nice Ru! Could you just not reach toms way?

Ru

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#883 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:44:12 am
Yes, found it a bit less reachy this way. Plus I found the holds at the back easier to hold going out right hand first.

monkey boy

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#884 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:52:13 am
Yes, found it a bit less reachy this way. Plus I found the holds at the back easier to hold going out right hand first.

Yeh thats why ned tried it this way! Its a bit like river of life in that there are 2 good obvious ways of doing the same problem! Shame though as the heel you get to use on the other way is amazing!

Ru

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#885 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 09:57:27 am
Its a bit like river of life in that there are 2 good obvious ways of doing the same problem! Shame though as the heel you get to use on the other way is amazing!

I couldn't get the heel to stick either...

Stu Littlefair

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#886 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 10:01:18 am
Ru - is this the same thing we tried briefly that day at CragX when we were oh-so-motivated?

Looks good, shall have to go back - did you also use the reach and leap sequence?

Ru

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#887 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 10:03:28 am
Yeah same thing. It was a bit better nick when I went back too. It was more of a reach, sag, pop, than a leap.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2009, 10:11:26 am by Ru »

monkey boy

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#888 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 22, 2009, 02:26:46 pm
Its a bit like river of life in that there are 2 good obvious ways of doing the same problem! Shame though as the heel you get to use on the other way is amazing!

I couldn't get the heel to stick either...

Yeh getting it to stick was the crux but when it does the move is good!

TomP

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#889 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 24, 2009, 02:54:07 pm
Sorry for my slow response guys, I've got a week off work (where I spend most of my time on the internet) and have no web access at home.

I didn't try Tom's origonal method, which I suppose I should have done. I just thought this was a proj so just spent my skin on that.

This little crag has got me almost psyched to visit the peak lime more often now!

Off to the Lakes for a bumble up Napes Needle now :'(

andy_e

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#890 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 24, 2009, 03:01:52 pm
 :o :lol:

willackers

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#891 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 27, 2009, 10:16:40 am



After making the first Dumby Dosage video I got a bit more footage together and started on Dumby Dosage 2, there's a bit of chuffing in this one but it's mainly bouldering.

Enjoy     :P



Richie Crouch

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#892 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 27, 2009, 11:55:02 am
That is most definitely a quality video Will. Nice work  :)

Adam Lincoln

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#893 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 27, 2009, 01:54:51 pm
Second ascent of Iron Resolution, V13

Andy B

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#894 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 08:40:04 pm
A bit of messing about at Millstone.



I thought that the second to last one was a first ascent at the time. Gutted.

a dense loner

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#895 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 08:43:17 pm
Has anybody seen the big left arete at the edge of millstone? does anybody know if its been done? i think it will go

Andy B

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#896 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 08:49:53 pm
The problem I called Welford's Wall in the vid is right next to that arete. From looking at it whilst standing on the ground, it seems potentially OK to top rope but harrowing on the lead unless you could wheedle in some RP's in those thin cracks.

Nike Air

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#897 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 09:42:56 pm
Nice one Andy, they all look entertaining.  :thumbsup:

slackline

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#898 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 09:58:24 pm
Well held at 0:54!

nik at work

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#899 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 28, 2009, 10:26:34 pm
I assume Dense is being funny asking about that arete, what with it being such an obvious and well known line and all that.

However in the interests of information dissemination.
It's a nice sequence to about halfway-ish, then there is the potential for a bit of gear (I think we wangled a rurp in but that may have been due to limited gear choice as much as anything else) then a big dynamic move to an obvious hold just below the top and an easy finish. Pretty bold (depending on gear) but not that hard. When it gets done I'd guess it would be about E8 6c - ish. Surprised it hasn't had an ascent to be honest.

 

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