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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1943977 times)

a dense loner

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#825 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 05:03:14 pm
andy does that foxy lady get 8a by climbing it and not shit jumping which is obviously much easier? tried this very briefly few years ago, thought it was superb but i also thought it was given 7c, which is why i stopped trying it. way too much like hard work, not that i'm shallow

a dense loner

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#826 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 05:08:16 pm
thats dynamite rodma, are you the strongest man in the world? tried jumping to 5 then going wherever a bit ago, i had absolutely no co-ordination at all to catch 5 but i did provide dan with much amusement trying

Andy B

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#827 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 05:29:14 pm
andy does that foxy lady get 8a by climbing it and not shit jumping which is obviously much easier? tried this very briefly few years ago, thought it was superb but i also thought it was given 7c, which is why i stopped trying it. way too much like hard work, not that i'm shallow

Sorry Lee, I've got no idea. Despite me apparently being a bouldering consumerist, I just climbed it because I liked it.

a dense loner

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#828 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 05:41:06 pm
good answer but try telling that to johnny :-*

Andy B

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#829 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 05:54:55 pm
Johnny can take his blinkers off and kiss my arse.

Jim

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#830 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 09:40:48 pm
(foxy lady) always fancied trying it as the climbing looks mega but was put of by the tiny grips

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#831 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 10:37:10 pm
Johnny can take his blinkers off and kiss my arse.

While playing with his own paramiter?

GCW

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#832 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 15, 2009, 11:02:19 pm
He can't kiss your arse, the crack is out on this problem.

willackers

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#833 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:09:32 am



First font 8a! Yey!
 
;D


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#834 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:22:40 am
Really good effort!

Now here's a thorny question.....
It was always done with that sequence and that's 8a no doubt.  But with the nasty finger lock it's about 7b+.
Soooo, should we think of Pongo sitter as a classic 8a, or just a bad sequence for a 7b+?


[Not trying to detract from your excellent effort, just some idle musings]

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#835 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:54:11 am
A short vid from the evening's entertainment.
Sorry A, it was the closest I could find to Rap-that-12-year-olds-like.   :shrug:



rodma

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#836 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 08:32:03 am
hey rodma,
could it be that i watched that vid on ned feehally's blog?
beast, anyway, i want to learn how to do it...

It used to be on my blog as a tiny really low res blogger video. I got inspired a few years ago when Rudden told me that the Earl had been doing this sort of thing, so I started trying.

I can't even hang 5 anymore when I try it now, unless it's on jugs  :'( hopefully soon though.

willackers

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#837 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 08:58:28 am

Now here's a thorny question.....
It was always done with that sequence and that's 8a no doubt.  But with the nasty finger lock it's about 7b+.
Soooo, should we think of Pongo sitter as a classic 8a, or just a bad sequence for a 7b+?



I can't believe it took so long for someone to find that finger lock!   ::)

You have a good point, the new guide has about 4 different grades for it now which is a bit silly, I think if you really want the classic Pongo tick you have to do it the 8a way.

Some people will tell you it's harder to use that grim lock anyway  :lol:

Cassidy

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#838 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 10:45:35 am
 :agree:  Yeah, i think its font 9a using that minging fingerlock.  Why would you want to spoil such a lovely brutal sequence with a painful jam anyway? That visiting American has a lot to answer for!

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#839 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:32:33 pm
Yeah, that finger lock is foul.

uptown

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#840 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:48:09 pm
A short vid from the evening's entertainment.

Is that the legendary AL attempting a repeat of snatch?
If so how many ascents has this seen.
Looks to be right up my street.

GCW

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#841 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 12:58:23 pm
Yes.
1.
Come along and I'll make you a brew.

Out of interest, the one ascent did a more direct start to get the sidepull as a gaston with the LH, which is harder.  I am told (at great length) how difficult the top bit is though, so whether or not the GayVariant start makes the whole thing easier is up for debate.
I'm sticking to the proper start though.

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#842 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 16, 2009, 01:00:28 pm
the one ascent did a more direct start

Like the second method here:





I've treated the RF pocket, so now you can bump the RF up to a smear to get the gaston.  Nearly nailed it yesterday, so I think a technical genius like you would ace it.

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#843 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
June 26, 2009, 12:36:35 am
This has a nice feel to it. Southern people having their first go on grit.


r-man

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#844 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 11:08:04 am

dave

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#845 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 11:16:55 am
crazy effects - is that a Winter Sessions sequel?

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#846 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 11:37:02 am
i like how he opted to have his mate hold the camera rather than spot. i guess the landing is pretty good though.

dave

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#847 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 11:39:46 am
I admire that shit (maybe it does feel 7c like that)

Moo

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#848 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 12:28:11 pm
Is this the posting of gritstone videos between the months of june and august I feel my fingetrips start to bleed already as well as a growing sense of frustration..............disgusting

uptown

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#849 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
July 01, 2009, 08:24:47 pm
...posting of gritstone videos between the months of june and august I feel my fingetrips start to bleed...a growing sense of frustration..............disgusting

You'd hate my latest effort then Moo. ;D

 

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