Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1943954 times)

Steve R · March 30, 2009, 08:37:10 pm

Here's one from the peak's finest venue:

my mate made it a few weeks ago but sure he won't mind me sharing.

I've often wondered, does jug H really extend that far right as far as Tom's original's concerned? $:-\$ If not I may be in some bother...

lagerstarfish · March 31, 2009, 07:37:14 pm

Time to remedy the lack of Willie Nelson tracks on this thread

Eddies · March 31, 2009, 10:43:26 pm

Thats left me with a lump in my throat

lagerstarfish · April 01, 2009, 01:38:15 am

There's a bit of a story to that video. Couldn't think how to fit it into the editing though.

I was discussing gritstone bouldering with Magpie in the pub last week - she expressed a desire to get on some easy grit slabs. This got me enthusing about The Lone Boulder at Stanage and this in turn reminded me how much I enjoy the slab/mantel problems there and also that I hadn't been there for a long time. The next day at work I was still thinking longingly about the boulder and had a strong feeling that I had neglected myself by not getting there for so long.

I had planned to get up to the Plantation on Sunday morning, but some foolish early beers on Saturday with Otter after no tea resulted in nothing more than minor DIY getting done on Sunday. Hit work early on Monday and, after sorting out the diary, realised that I was able to get out on the grit early afternoon. I was thinking about climbing all morning - this in itself was pretty uplifting as I haven't felt that keen since last spring.

During the morning I went to visit someone in hospital and in the absence of anything positive in their life for us to have a conversation about I ended up gushing on about how excited I was to be going out on the grit that afternoon and couldn't think of anything else. For some reason, my rambling reminded my visitee of the Willie Nelson song "always on my mind" - except they couldn't remember the lyrics, the title or who sung it, due to their condition. So I did a bit of prompting and the result was a bit of therapeutic singing in the hospital which gave rise to a long missed smile and a bit of chuckling from my visitee.

The song was going through my head as I drove out to Stanage - I was even singing it thinking about the boulder - and as you would expect was with me throughout the session. I did a load of filming and generally had an ace time - as evidenced by the video.

The person I visited in hospital on Monday died last night. I found out this morning when I got to the hospital. Lots of emotions flying about, so I didn't feel like carrying on working the rest of the day. Work are pretty good about stuff like that, so I came home.

To keep me occupied I edited my footage from the Lone Boulder session - that's the result above. I am pleased with the result. Mind you the grades are bound to be a bit wrong due to my lack of practice.

*edit*

I didn't mean for this tale to put a sombre dampener on the thread - I'm pretty upbeat about the whole thing. We all have to go sometime.

Andy B · April 01, 2009, 08:54:12 am

Quote from: Steve R on March 30, 2009, 08:37:10 pm

I've often wondered, does jug H really extend that far right as far as Tom's original's concerned? $:-\$ If not I may be in some bother...

I'm afraid not. The juggy slot, and the crimps to it's left, are parts of hold I. The juggy slot didn't used to exist, as there was a block in there which made hold I crimps, like the ones to the left of the juggy slot as it is now. This is why problems like Jerry's problem specifically use the crimps part of I, as going for the juggy slot is obviously much easier.

Fiend · April 01, 2009, 11:38:11 am

Lagers that's a good story to go with the video

I agree the Lone boulder is ace, it's probably my favourite single boulder and I totally get it being on one's mind. You did miss out the diagonal from the left arete to scoop finish tho

magpie · April 01, 2009, 11:50:59 am

Lagers, me and you are definitely going climbing next time I'm down. You can take that as a threat or a promise.

SA Chris · April 01, 2009, 01:07:55 pm

Will you be spotting?? You might get squished.

Jaspersharpe · April 01, 2009, 02:37:24 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on April 01, 2009, 01:38:15 am

...........thinking longingly about the boulder.................I was thinking about climbing all morning...........I haven't felt that keen since last spring.........generally had an ace time.........

SYKE!!!

Nibile · April 03, 2009, 02:30:20 pm

sadly i don't have real climbing footage as of late, so i'll just link another small vid from the guru.
here you go. (bracing myself...)

lagerstarfish · April 03, 2009, 04:45:36 pm

Quote from: magpie on April 01, 2009, 11:50:59 am

Lagers, me and you are definitely going climbing next time I'm down.

As long as you can look after the baby while I crush/send/flail and promise not to squeeze it too hard.

lagerstarfish · April 04, 2009, 10:42:10 am

Warm up micro-circuit on The Kidney

willackers · April 04, 2009, 01:35:24 pm

Made a Dumby Video, first time I've used any software like this so it's not the best.

Enjoy...

a dense loner · April 04, 2009, 02:53:43 pm

you're too modest will. this should be in the quality videos thread. really enjoyed it, must be going soft in my frail dotage. hope you guys sing mickey jeans in karaoke in the glasgow bars

philo · April 04, 2009, 07:45:52 pm

yeah that was class.

lagerstarfish · April 06, 2009, 10:34:51 pm

Continuing with my theme of easy bouldering (because I'm too out of shape to do anything else).
Intended to get Grumpycrumpy SYKED

robertostallioni · April 06, 2009, 10:47:53 pm

Nice chilled video Lagers. Had a period drama feel to it (especially with those bloody boo-its). Could be the next opening sequence for Emmerdale.

GCW · April 08, 2009, 04:51:09 pm

A few clips bunged together:

Rob F · April 08, 2009, 06:26:22 pm

re: arete on the pebble.

Hi Lagers,

Nice atmospheric vid. You shouldn't be so modest. Denis Grey once told me that Don Willians did the FA of that problem. Was regarded as the hardest boulder problem in the UK at the time. The first english 6b apparently....

Regards

Rob.

lagerstarfish · April 08, 2009, 07:59:33 pm

Quote from: Rob F on April 08, 2009, 06:26:22 pm

Denis Grey once told me that Don Whillans did the FA of that problem. Was regarded as the hardest boulder problem in the UK at the time. The first english 6b apparently....

Really? That's ace.

It probably is Eng 6b if you're only 5' 4". Any idea if he bothered with the sit start? (insert joke about all starts being sit starts for short people)

That will get brother Grumpy SYKED to link it up. He's done the stander and done the sitter start, he just needs to link it.

grumpycrumpy · April 09, 2009, 06:59:41 pm

I'm not quite sure what SYKED means Lagers , but if I was anymore SYKED to do this problem I'd have to re-christen myself Eric ..... If the weather sorts itself out I'm going to batter either it ,or myself , into submission tomorrow morning .....

Rob F · April 09, 2009, 07:49:38 pm

Tried (without success) by all the hotshots of that era and done in big boots (which probably makes anything 6b).

Anyways if you want SYKED for the 4 day easter weekend gritfest cop a load of this badboy website (not as dodgy as it sounds!!!)

http://www.climax-magazine.com/weblog/climax-tv/

Can someone please please please confirm whether the Loskot 8c route at the end of issue #01/08 is in fact a couple of bolts of french 6b followed by a dyno between jugs????

Glücklich klettern

Rob.

lagerstarfish · April 09, 2009, 10:13:51 pm

It sounds dodgy and it is in fact a site all about the goings on in Austrian cellars; topical, but shocking. Thinly disguised by such things as "was ist Training?"

Loving the videos

Andy Harris · April 09, 2009, 11:02:46 pm

it looks a lot like the plombergstein in austria near Saltzburg. Went here maybe 6-7 years ago to check out this Klem area. Basically an enormos cliff that takes at least 1hour or so to walk round. It was freezing cold, we got lost and i thought there was a chance we'd freeze to death.

some cool looking routes and a massive wall from what i remember but lot's of hideously chipped, sika created routes.

anyone else been theer and have more info. we didn't climb and i couldn't suss whether it was worth going back. Think i have a guide somewhere.

Fultonius · April 10, 2009, 08:40:35 am

Well, as I promised the the "Bouldering in Angelsey" here's the two problems I bothered to film (badly):