[GCW]

A couple of nice problems at the (Nont Sarah's), Yorkshire.
Apologies again to Nik, but if you will let go of the jug.....   

[Fiend]

I was climbing far better than I deserve that evening and this problem felt like 7a. Apparantly it is supposed to be 7b+ or something. I can't tell. 7b maybe?

Sept A plus I thought I read somewhere, but could be completely wrong. You do look well solid on it though! I struggled for ages to even do the stander.

[Drew]

A couple of nice problems at the (Nont Sarah's), Yorkshire.
Apologies again to Nik, but if you will let go of the jug.....   

Nice. The spotting is incredible! Even when he does... was it Okey Dokie?... it might be the angle, but you look like you're stood about 10 metres downhill!

[GCW]

Yeah, we learned from the initial fuck up.  And it was about 8 feet downhill. 
You may note I put my hands down when Nik got the jug.  We were worried he'd pop off on the move to the jug and land on his head.  But we were wrong.  I put my hands down cos a) I thought he'd nailed it and b) to avoid a dab.   

[nik at work]

Fair play to GCW the time I fell off was my first attempt at the move to the jug and I was more concerned about missing the hold and landing on my back. GCW was spotting me for that, then avoided the dab on the swing (and the probable concusion as I kick his head off kung-fu stylee - keee-yah).
When I didn't fall off he was stood in the best place to stop me should I do the same swing off the jug again. The ground really drops away so it is impossible for one person to spot both eventualities (i.e. spot the back on the move to the jug, and spot the swing off). GCW was very apologetic about the spotting but I think he's been overly harsh on himself. He did a fine job IMHO.

And anyway like he says, I did let go of the jug....

[Nibile]

gcw, what's the tune?

[Drew]

I have to admit, as you describe it, that's how I would've spotted (the back and head on the heel hook move), but then it would've been impossible to spot the swing (as you say). It's a case of the lesser of two evils I suppose?

[GCW]

Nibs- it's a DJ Quicksilver remix of Eye of the Tiger.
Drew-  Once Nik realised he had the heel move wired, it wasn't a difficult choice of spotting position

[james]

Is there much else to do up there?  Those two probs look nice

[grimer]

That one about The Egg is brilliant  

[GCW]

Not really, there's the two roof problems and a good slope traverse.  Everything else is a bit disappointing.  But it ain't too far from Blackstone Edge.

[lagerstarfish]

Nice vid there GCW. Stuff looks much better on vimeo... must get some stuff up on there...

Ace tune!

[Monolith]

Nothing special at all,but some standard issue problems in Font.
Excuse poor quality but it's all my laptop can process until it gets an upgrade.

P.S. Jim, tell worm his ascent of L'Aero is on this if he wants to see it.

[r-man]

Not really, there's the two roof problems and a good slope traverse.  Everything else is a bit disappointing.  But it ain't too far from Blackstone Edge.

Is this any cop? -->

there's a mint looking sitter from a hard pinch just up and to the right of 'papa lazarou'. small overhanging bulge of rock a la kebs! looks good for a strong person, needs brushing though, could be a great hard problem ;-)

[GCW]

Dunno, Nik and I had a look about and didn't see anything obvious, unless it's above the road?  We didn't look at the boulders above the road.
Anyone have the Hudd guide handy to tell us where 'papa lazarou' is?

[nik at work]

Yeah, someone must have the Hudds guide?

Shame there isn't more there really as the two roof probs are both worthwhile.

Oh and the tune is ace, I see it as a metaphor. The roof is Clubber Lang I am Rocky and GCW is versatile enough to play both Mickey and Appollo. We should have done a big gay jumpy splashy hug montage in the resevoir down the hill just to make the image complete. Oh well next time.

Maybe I should get some new jeans....

[webbo]

i have the huddersfield guide but its at home and i'm at work.i'll try and remember to look at it to night or bring it in tomorrow for a question and answer session.

[webbo]

Dunno, Nik and I had a look about and didn't see anything obvious, unless it's above the road?  We didn't look at the boulders above the road.
Anyone have the Hudd guide handy to tell us where 'papa lazarou' is?

papa lazarou is on the big block down and right of p,i,a,p if your looking uphill.its the very r/h arete again as you look up hill.i remember thinking the problems on this block didn't really have much of a line also the top outs looked to be the hard bits.
also the description in the guide for pig etc reads start under the roof.use flakes and anything else that comes to hand to finish up the front of the roof.(a broken flake may make this even harder!)
i did it with a sit start then the line as per vid having watched this before i went there.however as it was given v8 i wasn't sure whether it was just overgraded or you were supposed to climb the roof direct without the holds on the lip.

[GCW]

papa lazarou is on the big block down and right of p,i,a,p

Is that the one with a cave under it?  Looks like scope for a hard, fingery silly problem exiting the cave/roof and going straight up the face?  With a traverse on the next face round right?

PIAP seems more logical the way Nik does it in the vid.  And then you get 2 independant (and good) problems along the lips of the roof.  We also thought about doing Okey Dokey to the end, then back along PIAP.  Would be hard reversing PIAP, and a little rubbish probably.

[nik at work]

Nice one webbo. So maybe Okey Dokey is actually Pig In A Pokey? In which case Pig In A Pokey could actually be Okey Dokey???

I suppose the V8 grade makes more sense for the line I took as Okey Dokey, although it is probably possible to do some hybrid line combining the two....

Anyway good info providing skills.

As for Papa Lazarou, the block this is on was the only other block that looked to have some potential. Maybe our judgement was clouded by the fact that I was tired (having done some climbing) and GCW was miserable (having done some falling off) but nothing really stood out as a mega line. Oh well one mans poison etc etc etc.

May go back and have another look when I'm next over that way.

[GCW]

May go back and have another look when I'm next over that way.

Off dogging again?

I'll have you know falling off stuff is more tiring 'cos you have to keep doing things.  What with my bad shoulder and all 

[nik at work]

Just to be clear, I get the impression that most people do Pig In A Pokey as shown in the video. The Okey Dokey line (as in the video) may be the original line of Pig In A Pokey but I think that when people go and climb Pig In A Pokey they climb what we thought was Pig In A Pokey. As it is the obvious line with obvious holds, the holds on ther other line look/feel awful by comparison and the whole problem appears MUCH harder (even though it isn't MUCH harder).

Obviously this is all just wild speculation and conjecture on my part...

[webbo]

maybe it got v8 for the landing i remember anchoring my mats down with tooth brushes and nail clippers to stop them surfing off into the next county.just looking at the guide i guess most things are a little on the generous side grade wise.the slopey traverse with the extended start is given v5 and i think in order to get to fit this grade i avoided using the obvious foot rail.
these are some of the other probs on pig block
the royston vasey trav.trav under roof left to right.v4
precious things dyno.somehow reach the break in the end of the roof and dyno for the top.v5 this sounds like the finishing move to pig.
also the guide states.
many of the new problems where done during the winter so are graded for those conditions.in summer,when the rock is perfectly dry and its not blowing a gale,they might seem easier.
obviously we all been doing it wrong.

[GCW]

precious things dyno.  somehow reach the break in the end of the roof and dyno for the top.v5 this sounds like the finishing move to pig.

We did this when looking at PIAP/OD.  It's about 1-4 I think, and V5 would be pretty generous for me.  I'd have said more like V2/3.  Obviously if you're crap at campussing it'd feel harder.

EDIT:  And it was hailing on and off when we were there, some of the slots on PIAP were a bit damp, but didn't affect things a lot.  I can imagine a winter coat would though.

[webbo]

i was there in the middle of summer and i would have preferred the current weather conditions.also get the impression that the author of the guide might not have done all the problems as some the descriptions are a bit vague i.e. pig in a pokey its described like its the living end.