[Bonjoy]

Another beta request from last weeks Yorkshire grit action.
Andy's Route V7 on the Great Flake block. Got up to the mid height juggy edge, but didn't know what to do next and was slightly scared so jumped off. Any ideas what to do next? Are the top holds always super green, does it matter? Also has anyone done the project to it's left, mentioned in the YBG? It had chalk on the start holds.

[Stubbs]

Finish using slopey rail directly above this - there's a good bit towards the bottom IIRC. I tried to brush the holds from the top before attempting it and it certainly helped to get some of the crispy stuff off.  Definitely worth brushing the top as it's a bit slopey. The use of the bushes just back from the lip may or may not be necessary.

Thanks for the reminder bonjoy, I've got to back and finish this, jumped off from being matched on the slopey rail last time I was there, then remembered I was going to the states for a month so should try not to hurt myself... Jumping off seems to mean you have to choose between maybe scraping your face or missing the block at the bottom.

[Johnny Brown]

Remember having some good goes at the project back in my Leeds days, dunno if it ever got done though. Definitely doable...

[dave]

if this project is the thing i'm thinking of then when i was last there it had load of chalk on, so must have been done. chalked in a way that kinda made it look aboiut V7 though i'm sure its probably harder.....unless you're talking about a different problem entirely.

[Stubbs]

There are two lines to the left of Andy's route, one which has been done, and one which to my knowledge has not.

The one that's been done is to the far left and gains a painful pocket with the right hand followed by a big rock over to the lip, this one is on the list, I think it was done quite a while ago and is 7b+ or 7c if memory serves, and harder than it looks.

The line that i don't think has been done is between this and Andy's route, following the features curving to the right.  Seem to remember someone saying that Bransby had climbed most of this, but not finished it off.  This line is generally even more green and minging than Andy's route. Had some goes on this, but it's not as good as it looks becauseafter the start you can reach holds on Andy's Route.

[Bonjoy]

I looked at the RH line last week. It looked really good I thought. Start on the left and follow slopers into the end moves of Andy's Route. To try and stay independant of AR all the way would make a crap problem, but the link-up looks really good and not mega hard. The little birch tree that has been cut back but has re-grown could do with cutting back again though. I looks like one of those overlooked classics which everyone will kick themselves about when it gets done at 7b+.

[Stubbs]

You're probably right - lets hope for an extended dry spell this winter so it comes into condition!