Lay Offs (Read 9502 times)

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 02:55:21 pm

Just wondering if many of you lot have had many long lay offs and about how long it took you to get back to a decent standard. E.g. i had three months off in the summer but am now training 3/4 times a week. So how long could i be looking at before i'm cranking again? I have no idea cos previous to this the longest i had off in ten years was three weeks. Cheers

unclesomebody · October 17, 2006, 03:05:37 pm

I had a pretty long lay off this summer too due to finger injuries and work shit. I probably did absolutely no climbing for 7/8 weeks and in the other month I climbed once or twice. I reckon my body has had time to heal all it's small injuries and is now able to get in better shape than ever. Don't worry doyle, it will all come flowing back within a few weeks. The only thing I can suggest is that you don't overtrain. Coming back from a layoff back into a 4/5 sessions a week routine will hurt your body. You're going to need to rest longer between sessions for a while, whilst your body learns to be punished again. That's what I reckon anyway...

and anyway, I saw you doing a one armer the other day... so don't make out that you're THAT weak! see you in the den.

SA Chris · October 17, 2006, 04:42:19 pm

I did two winter lay offs after getting the hump with being constantly injured. Went straight from no climbing into a 6 weekn road trip, and was back up to previous standards in about a week. But my previous standard was never that high anyway.

Simon S · October 17, 2006, 05:13:17 pm

In general for most sports the time of lay off will roughy equal the time required to regain previous fitness/strength. However, in climbing I reckon that lay off can be really beneficial in that it allows for all the small micro traumas to repair/heal. Also, the 'previous' fitness/strength may be compromised slightly prior to the lay off due to fatigue amd lack of adequate rest. I'd reckon on around 4-6 weeks to regain the lost condition.

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:35:00 pm

Never had that long off but i think you develop a good base level. Depending on what that is will determine how long it takes to get back. 6 weeks though?

Enough time to get strong for Hueco

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 05:37:40 pm

Ta all. My base levels always been shite.

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:39:28 pm

You will probably come back stronger. Most people do after a lay off. And Psyced!

Paul B · October 17, 2006, 05:40:42 pm

After seeing you climbing just after you came back and then this weekend i'm reckoning not too much longer. Just take it steady, last christmas i had a one month lay off due to work etc, came straight back and injured myself meaning a further month off with an easy month after that.

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 05:43:46 pm

Quote from: Adam Lincoln on October 17, 2006, 05:39:28 pm

And Psyced!

No shortage of that!

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:44:59 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 17, 2006, 05:43:46 pm

Quote from: Adam Lincoln on October 17, 2006, 05:39:28 pm
And Psyced!

No shortage of that!

When do you get to Hueco? How long you staying?

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 05:48:21 pm

5th Jan. 7 weeks. Should be long enough to get a V6 done. When you goin?

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:50:16 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 17, 2006, 05:48:21 pm

5th Jan. 7 weeks. Should be long enough to get a V6 done. When you goin?

6th Jan for 5 weeks, then hitching a ride with jeff upto Bishop. Then Colorado. 10 weeks altogether.

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 05:51:31 pm

nice, see you there, you got reservations?

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:53:25 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 17, 2006, 05:51:31 pm

nice, see you there, you got reservations?

Not yet, you?

Booking sometime next week.

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 05:56:27 pm

Yeah but only from the 12th jan, if i were you i'd ring up tonight. Dunno what we're gonna do the 1st week, hopefully be able to climb.

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 05:57:50 pm

Quote from: Doylo on October 17, 2006, 05:56:27 pm

Yeah but only from the 12th jan, if i were you i'd ring up tonight. Dunno what we're gonna do the 1st week, hopefully be able to climb.

Shit, is it that booked up already? Did you pay on phone aswell?

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 06:02:02 pm

The yanks have booked it all cos its the holidays. Thats only for North Mountain though, should be able to get on some guided tours for the other areas. Pay over phone with credit card, 4 dollars a day.

Adam Lincoln · October 17, 2006, 06:23:33 pm

Did you book ever single day of your trip, or odd days?

Where you staying? Where everyone stays?

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 08:40:00 pm

You can only book three consecutive days and then you have to skip a day. I just booked as many days as i could. Dunno where staying yet.

dave · October 17, 2006, 09:11:55 pm

I had 2 weeks off in august (on holiday) was the first time i'd had more than a week off in 5 years. it was fucking shite. i came back and climbed like dogshit and all my miggling injuries had come back because I wasn't doing the remedial excersises, theraband etc. my elbow is still not right and its now 2 months later.

My advice is layoff the layoffs, unless you're involuntarily hopitalised or some shit.

Doylo · October 17, 2006, 09:18:38 pm

Quote from: dave on October 17, 2006, 09:11:55 pm

My advice is layoff the layoffs, unless you're involuntarily hopitalised or some shit.

Your not wrong David, theres not much you can do with a fucked finger though!

saltbeef · October 17, 2006, 10:21:22 pm

take it steady beast, make sure you get a fair bit of easier mileage in too.
and vary the stuff your doing, don't just climb on the 50degree board.

Bowie · October 18, 2006, 08:31:08 am

had well over 2 yrs off and then after a slow run in had my best year of climbing last year. of course if id seen the right physio / done the right thing at the start of the 2 yrs then i would have had slightly less time off $:-\$

now of course in the middle of another layoff, c4/5 months but i have found a new vocation - circuit training and running. no neeeeed.

SA Chris · October 18, 2006, 08:42:38 am

Quote from: Doylo on October 17, 2006, 05:51:31 pm

nice, see you there, you got reservations?

The correct response is "I'm not sure about the decor, but I'm prepared to give you a chance".

Or words to that effect.

Houdini · October 20, 2006, 06:26:42 pm

I guess it all depends on how strong you are naturally without climbing.

I regularly take 3 - 9 months off then come back with a vengeance and go bouldering nuts. Reckon on about 2 weeks of contant bouldering just to get them fingers working again, and another month for the rest of the body to catch up.

I agree with the lay-off the lay-offs quip. A little everyday is all one needs to get strong and boulder with alacrity. Not too much, just a little daily and without fail.