[Paul B]

I had a session on wednesday where I was trying pretty damn hard on a probelm, no pain but afterwards my fingers were feeling very achey and stiff. I decided to have two days rest - today being the 2nd. Today I can feel some slight soreness around the base (in the side) of my RH ring finger, similar to a pulley injury, now I had one of these last year and this isnt even on the same scale, I was wondering what to do as I believe the cause of my last injury worsening was due to poor choices at this stage, the last injury was a sizeable tear I believe, is it likely that I have just aggrivated the pulley (I cant remember if its the same hand) or is this a small tear?
Answers on the back of a postcard.
Cheers.

[drdeath]

ice-pack/iced water + voltarol gel (emugel) several times a day has worked wonders on my very similar injury...

[Dr T]

just about everything you need to know about finger injuries in one place....
http://www.climbinginjuries.com/Finger.htm

[Paul B]

right if its any of those its a I or II, however I havent had any pain when climbing or squeezing, I think i'll have a slow session tomorrow, and see where it takes me, if it feels bad ill stop and reconsider. This sound ok people or does it sound like a recipe for making it worse?
Good site btw. Cheers.

[Paul B]

Right i think this is probably a grade 1 after all, no pain when crimping, squeezing but yesterdays open session seems to have ANGERED it. Anyone else had this? ive had pulley injuries before and it was obvious that crimping or squeezing was bad but this one seems to be fine.

[Doylo]

I had a session on wednesday where I was trying pretty damn hard on a probelm,

I've told you before about trying to impress Ben Moon! 

[unclesomebody]

I had a session on wednesday where I was trying pretty damn hard on a probelm,

I've told you before about trying to impress Ben Moon! 

ha ha ha... so true. the truth is that you'll probably never impress him (unless of course you do perky pinky)...

[Simon S]

This is just a thought but could this be a tendon strain? The open handed position agrevating it would tend to suggest so. I've had a similar sounding tweak recently and cannot decide if its a tendon strain of just from using a mouse on the pc too much. Just been done the wall and done some circuits (easy!!!!) and it felt ok so fingers crossed.

[Paul B]

love the spot you guys offered up there the other day! just managed to bend your legs enough so i missed you on landing. Good effort!

Had another good session yesterday (i think?) and my finger feels fine so no open handing stuff for a couple of weeks. Think Simon S has hit the nail on the head.
(Anyhow screwed up my back on that shitty bench, any reason the two domynos ones don't get used?)

[ferret]

try feelin around the lower back side (no pun intended) of yor trapezius where it meets yor shoulder blade. if its painful, look for the sorest spot n press hard. before doin this touch injured finger to thumb n hold hard while an assistant tries to pull them apart. press on sorespot for ten mins and repeat test. if theres any noticeable difference this is where yor problem stems from.
please note im not a doctor and cud be any one of a dozen reasons but giv it a try.

[Nigel]

Hey ferret, how's tricks?

I've got twp tweaked ring fingers, and that pain when I press my trapezius. So go on, what's the crack, if this is the source of the problem how do I sort it out? Osteopath, sports masseur, or do you need to lay your hands on me (again). 

[ferret]

sup nige

as above touch finger to thumb get somebody to try n pull em apart. find most painfull point in trapezius and get somebody to push on it with there thumb as hard as you can stand it. (often u can feel a corresponding tingle in the finger) retest finger thumb, and try to subjectively gauge the amount of recovery b4 and after (try testing other fingers and comparing for a rough idea of 100% feels like).
if you have a large amount of recovery then its probably not too bad.

if its bad see a professional woteva.
pulley is ligament so has really poor blod flow, which is why accupuntures soo effective (i guess??) make sure you keep the hand well mobile even if yor not climbing.