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twisty fingers and knuckle baloning. (Read 1677 times)

gorgoberry

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twisty fingers and knuckle baloning.
October 04, 2006, 03:14:18 pm
Started bouldering (indoor, yawn) again after a four year rest. Fingers seem to be fairly unhappy about being stressed once again. Middle finger knuckles will not bend into fist. What am I to do? What if I have to thump a neighbor for being insolent?

Anyone else get this?

Remedies? (please don't say rest :'( )

A friend of mine has been unable to make a fist for several years now. Is this the fate of every overly zealous bouldering addict?


fatdoc

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#1 Re: twisty fingers and knuckle baloning.
October 04, 2006, 05:38:41 pm
i'm too back into it after 4 years *in the wilderness*


basically if all you've got to climb on is plastic you're stufffed!




why?



cos it's real easy to strain stuff on plastic at the best of times, never mind when you look at a problem you coud have pissed on *back in the day* (even worse one with a grade) and say " right, I can do this" = trying too hard with poor co-ordination and a huge dose of *seeing red, pulling like twat*.


if you really cant get outdoors then take it real real easy.



I tape up, a lot. before i'm warm, round both pulleys...... but i did do for years before having my little break off. this is currently out of vogue- there is no evidence base either way.


as for limited finger movement - that's NOT common. i take it you stretch out etc.... before and after. being that stiff in your fingers may not be due to climbing, or climbing could be inflamming something else.... if it continues I would see your GP (really). I know of many climbers that cant straighten finders well, but none that cant close their fists.

gorgoberry

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#2 Re: twisty fingers and knuckle baloning.
October 04, 2006, 07:03:14 pm

basically if all you've got to climb on is plastic you're stufffed!


It's wood mainly (cellar dweller) but not much in it I suspect.


cos it's real easy to strain stuff on plastic at the best of times, never mind when you look at a problem you coud have pissed on *back in the day* (even worse one with a grade) and say " right, I can do this" = trying too hard with poor co-ordination and a huge dose of *seeing red, pulling like twat*.


if you really cant get outdoors then take it real real easy.

Well, the plan is mean't to be to reach a level of fitness indoors in order to justify taking the long journey from the baron boulderless wastelands where I live, to the peak etc. I can't really see the point in travelling 60+ miles, just to get worn out in an hour on the easy stuff.

I can see your point though. I may start setting my own new problems so as to avoid the said *I used to be strong once* phenomena. Concentrating on moving well indstead.


as for limited finger movement - that's NOT common. i take it you stretch out etc.... before and after. being that stiff in your fingers may not be due to climbing, or climbing could be inflamming something else.... if it continues I would see your GP (really). I know of many climbers that cant straighten finders well, but none that cant close their fists.

I've actually been to see my GP and they've taken some *precautionary* blood tests. I guess to see if it's a symptom of anything more serious, as I've had problems with my shoulders, elbows, knees and wrists. I'm waiting for results but I doubt they'll find anything. I reckon it's all a result of trying way to hard to soon. I've been back at it for a few months now (including some running, hence the knees) and then all of a sudden, everything seems to have crapped out. I may be getting to old, and less able to get away with some of the mad training I used to do.

Cheers for the advice.


 

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