[Nibile]

one week three sessions (fingerboard, indoor bouldering, campusing), one week two sessions (indoor bouldering, fingerboard), for 8 weeks, then one week one session (indoor bouldering) then crush everything.

start tonite.

anyone else has a trainer, or am i the only stupid that throws money in this shit?

btw last winter/spring taining gave good results.

[the_dom]

Is there any time for climbing outdoors?

[Nibile]

heh,
i was waiting for that question, youre right.

and.........

YES!!!!! i can actually climb on real rock!!!! no, seriously, the weekends are up for sends, thats why the period has been built with only two
weeks long mini-periods. every two weeks, at the end of the lighter week, you have a mini-performance peak, instead of waiting eight weeks and having a big peak.

ive chose ìn this way cos i dont have alot of long term goals now, but i have many projects close to here and close to be sent. hopefully.

[the_dom]

That actually sounds like a good plan, in that case.

Two questions:
(1) What kind of fingerboard workout do you do?
(2) Can you substitute campusing for fingerboard in week 2?

After a week in Rocklands I noticed an annoying plateau developing, and need something to boost power levels..

[Nibile]

ciao dom!!!!

2) i think that yes, you can. the guru sets a guideline, then you decide according also to you feelings, form, time, etc.
also remember that when asked for my training schedule, he wanted to know everything, like esp the aim of the training (boulders, routes, long routes, power, stamina...), the peak period, the likes/dislikes in training excercises, so its very very nibile-suited, but id like to share.

my aim was power for short bouldering
1) the fingerboard routines vary alot, as the campusing. take in mind that in the last months ive done the same routine very very few times.
now im doing:
2max pullups-4max pullups x 3 times on small edge (rest 3' between each)
same on 2cm good sloper

all for two times

then 3 sets of 5" lockoffs one arm almosto completely closed on good edge.

this for two or three routines (weeks) only then it will change.

[the_dom]

Cheers.

I might just give this a try...

By the way, when are you coming (far) south? Surf's been good recently, and Rocklands is as good as it's ever been..

dom

[soapy]

sifu say:



..do it with feeling..

[Nibile]

last update.

the first session was very strange, and i ws disappointed cos i could complete only HALF of the routine (1,5 series out of 3 scheduled, for the first excercise, and 3 out of 6 for the second)
so, the following day i met the guru at the gym and asked for info, saying hey, wtf, you set too much work for me.
he said no way, and asked for the print of the program, that i had with me.

comes out that, because of a concurrence of mistyping and misreading (you know, we are only climbers) i had done not half of the program, but one time AND HALF MORE!!!!!!!!!!

i crushed in the gym.

[Nibile]

dom,

i hope you didnt incurr in the same error, sorry.
the routine is ONE TIME on the small edge and ONE TIME on the 2cm good sloper and stop, not two times each.

sorry...