[route149]

I've used a bathroom scale to work out that I can take 72% of my bodyweight on one arm, and a 55% with the other.  Quite a discrepancy, huh?  (I don't just mean hanging off the bone - which is easy.  I mean actually contracting the arm and taking the weight off from a standing start.)

Is this left and right difference just explained by dominance? 

I'm trying various things to get closer to 100% bodyweight from a static contraction with my leading arm.  Is it better from a training viewpoint to work up to this goal slowly, using say three fingers of one arm, or a bit faster, with a whole hand on a reasonable hold, and weight?

No flames, please.  I know nothing.

[erm, sam]

erm, a whole hand on a good hold?

[route149]

erm, a whole hand on a good hold?

erm, why?

[webbo]

i suspect you'd be better just climbing to get strong rather than training to get strong for climbing.

[r-man]

I'm trying various things to get closer to 100% bodyweight from a static contraction with my leading arm.  Is it better from a training viewpoint to work up to this goal slowly, using say three fingers of one arm, or a bit faster, with a whole hand on a reasonable hold, and weight?

No flames, please.  I know nothing.

Tendon strength doesn't grow as fast as muscles, so its easy to injure yourself over-training if you aren't careful. If you want to train lock offs/pull ups, its best to do it on large holds - ideally a pull up bar or rock rings. You can progress to smaller holds if you find the large holds easy. But if you are climbing 6a+, you will benefit most from climbing lots and on a variety of rocks and problems, improving technique and gradually building up finger strength.

I would have thought isolating fingers is quite a dangerous activity, especially if you are just starting out. Your tendons probably aren't ready for you to subject them to that sort of stress.

[Nibile]

ditto.

i put up a pullup bar two weeks after my first experience on rock, and started training right after.
then i spent months trying to understand what my feet were supposed to do on rock.

[route149]

i suspect you'd be better just climbing to get strong rather than training to get strong for climbing.

Thanks, but it doesn't work like that for me.  I've done a lot in the past, had a huge break and am gradually getting up to speed again.  Okay, so Font 6a+ as my three-tries grade isn't exactly strong, but it's hardly a beginners' climbing grade either.

I have quite a solid technical foundation and I do think that additional horsepower is going to make a difference to me.  If anything, I have stronger holding power in fingers than my arms are currently capable translating into movement on locky problems.

Thanks, though, much appreciated advice.

[route149]

I would have thought isolating fingers is quite a dangerous activity, especially if you are just starting out. Your tendons probably aren't ready for you to subject them to that sort of stress.

I should clarify - just because I'm tentatively doing Font 6a+ problems doesn't mean I'm just starting out. I did cortomaltese a few years ago, but haven't done much for a good six years.  There's still a good foundation of tendon conditioning and a very good understanding of what I can get away with and what's dangerous.   But I do need a bit more horsepower to get to the next level, and arm isolation is, I understand, one of the methods.  For example, I can  easily do assisted one-arm locks with the other arm held right using a bungy cord that's locked right down at my waist.   It's all about what else I can do to make those little gains that gradually add up to a noticeable improvement.

thanks for the word of caution, though

[Houdini]

Have you ever tried bouldering half-naked in front of an exceptionally beautiful lady?  Does wonders for my performance.

[superfurrymonkey]

I have but I find the mirror gets in the way, god I need to shave more often.

[Houdini]

Superfurrymonkey:  I had no idea this is in reference to your massive bush! 

[dobbin]

Well, you dont come across as some strength obsessed teen, and others have warned of dangers so all that remains is to divulge some of the innermost secrets of strength training :

Train with weights instead of climbing at least once a week
Uneven grip pull ups
Campus on Big rungs
Bachar Ladder
Buy two dogs, carry one in each arm at all times. Aim to get a heavier dog for your weak arm. (you can use children too, but these are more expensive and you get into trouble if you tie them up outside shops).
Shave before bouldering a front beautiful ladies.
Move to Wales - the problems are easier there

[route149]

Buy two dogs, carry one in each arm at all times. Aim to get a heavier dog for your weak arm.

This is the way forward. The dog solution wins it for me.  I have ordered a St Bernard for the weaker side, and a Jack Russell for the stronger side.  Both are mere pups, but I'm expecting to have my work cut out in a few months. 

Now somebody just has to design a humane and comfortable system for supporting their weight. 

[dobbin]

Their being pups is simply nature training you. As they put on weight so your arms will get stronger. I feel your dog choices are entirely appropriate although you should be aware that proportionally the st bernard will grow bigger faster than the jack russell, this should be closely monitored lest your weak arm overtake your strong one.

Rest assured though, neither of these dogs will get you mistaken for Paris Hilton, who has a snivelling little shit of a dog (and hence thin arms).

[Turboman]

Is this why Jon Barton climbs like Paris Hilton?

[lorentz]

I can recommend English Bull Terriers for strength training and for not being mistaken for Paris Hilton (-although people may think you're princess anne once you start to muscle-up!)


 Just keep them away from the skateboards, vacuum cleaners, tape measures, the queen's corgies and anything else that makes them freak out. They'll pull your arms out of their sockets!

[route149]

I can recommend English Bull Terriers for strength training and for not being mistaken for Paris Hilton (-although people may think you're princess anne once you start to muscle-up!)

That's all great stuff, but listen: how to hang the vicious critturs from my personage while training?  The idea of having a free-range bull mastiff dangling below my waist makes me feel rather pale.  And one doesn't want to make the dawgs feel undignified or taken for granted.

[Houdini]

I guess when you've got the better of the terriers one could progress to John Barton.  Easy now - that's a professional/expert load were talking here...