[SA Chris]

Anyone else ever struggled with a scenario like this?

Who hasn't? Getting all stuck in my head is what accounts for most of my "projects." Sometimes tossing the sequence out the door is the best thing in the world.

Amen. Sometimes a new pair of eyes is a good idea. Usualy mine are the new pair, I can sort out sequences quite quickly when wathing other people, but then can't do them myself.

[moose]

Congrats Golt - finally.... you were pissing pretty much the entire problem when I saw you months ago.  Definitely a case of mental block m'thinks - you have been capable of every single move on that bugger for ages but it needed a herculean effort to break the cycle.  A bit scarey for my own ambitions for Picnic though - I was coming very close on my last attempts but your saga shows that it could be years before I send it! 

Mind you leaving these bete noirs for a while is often the best thing to do.  Sports science types refer to the purging of ineffective engrams.  Essentially repeated failure engrains the "wrong way" of doing the moves into your subconcious leaving you incapable of doing the problem even though you are physically able.  An extended break, climbing other stuff, enables you to forget your mistakes so that, come the rematch, your natural ability to move on rock allows you to do it (rather than being blocked by a half-remembered duff kinaesthetic sequence). 

Agree a new pair of eyes can make all the difference though - my main problem as a solo boulderer is stubborn, determined whittling of probably crap sequences.  God alone knows how many of my current projects are exercises in doomed turd-gilding.

[Stubbs]

Anyone else ever struggled with a scenario like this?

Word. I finally did Ben's Groove at Caley a couple of weeks ago - that was a two year project.  I think the most annoying thing about it was that it was rarely in condition and the landing is pretty poor, so you need at least one spotter and a few mats, therefore making it a problem that i couldn't just chip away at on my own.  The key in the end was crimping a pebble in a sloper, rather than just trying to hang the sloper; it always surprises me how such a small difference can lead to sucess.

Keep plugging Golt!

[moose]

Word. I finally did Ben's Groove at Caley a couple of weeks ago - that was a two year project.  ...the key in the end was crimping a pebble in a sloper, rather than just trying to hang the sloper; it always surprises me how such a small difference can lead to sucess.

could you give me a full sequence for this...     I'm planning on adopting it as my main project for the spring (now the LHS horn problem has been dispatched) and knowing I'm not wasting my time with a doomed sequence would be big motivating factor (PM me if you feel this is the wrong place for it).  I've had a few looks but have always been put off by the landing and that, depending on how high you back-up the boulders at the bottom, you can start pretty much anywhere- and I would hate to waste my efforts trying it in a "not-cricket" fashion!

[(woz)]

I think the most annoying thing about it was that it was rarely in condition and the landing is pretty poor, so you need at least one spotter and a few mats, therefore making it a problem that i couldn't just chip away at on my own.

Extra, Extra! - Stubbs in Caley chipping scandal, Read all about it...

[Nibile]

my problem seems to be that my winter ticklist is more a lifetime ticklist, for my capabilities...

[monkey boy]

I think the most annoying thing about it was that it was rarely in condition and the landing is pretty poor, so you need at least one spotter and a few mats, therefore making it a problem that i couldn't just chip away at on my own.

Extra, Extra! - Stubbs in Caley chipping scandal, Read all about it...

You my son are a comic genius! And very quick too!

[Stubbs]

Extra, Extra! - Stubbs in Caley chipping scandal, Read all about it...

Why I aughta....

Yeah I needed the spotters because I couldn't reach the bit i wanted to chip! 

[Nibile]

im very sad.
i put alot of effort in training to overcome my lack of talent, and chase bigger grades and general progress and improvement. i like to set myself hard tasks, that seem very far away, and then committ. im not afraid about failing cos im used to. i like the challenge.
now i feel so alone in all this.
i was hoping to get a few climbing trips now that g/f did the exam, and here they come weekend after weekend already busy. i still havent gone to cresciano, dunno when/if ill be able to go, nor to get back to ceriola seriously this time. its already very warm, and time is running.
its very hard to stay focused and dont lose control, and im a little afraid one of these days ill finish my patience.
and cry.

[Blunk]

I feel for you Nibile. This winter was all set to be a great season, had trained a bunch, the kids were old enough to not be such a problem, it was all good until the weather turned to shit for 2+ months.

Can't you reschedule some of the weekend events? Surely the girlfriend has to realize the importance of climbing! Luck to you man.

[andy_e]

Seems everyone's been getting disheartened by this climbing lark at the moment... Hang in there! I went through/am going through a patch like that...

[Falling Down]

Seems everyone's been getting disheartened by this climbing lark at the moment... Hang in there! I went through/am going through a patch like that...

Yep... I go through ups and downs... currently I'm not training much but enjoying my climbing days outside.. my mind is on surfing (and work) at the moment but it sometimes pays dividends to divert attention away from climbing for a time. 

[Fiend]

Yeah, word to you guys, psyched, but rain stops play. Feel the same vibe yah know. Hang in there one and all, patience, determination, but avoiding overobsessing, that's what it's about.

[Nibile]

but avoiding overobsessing, that's what it's about.

wise words, thanks.

[Nibile]

maybe i know why i sent very little until now of my winter ticklist:
winter has never come.
its 19° now, and i remember not more than one cold day in the entire season.

[Andy F]

There's alway's the Summer tick-list to start working on 

[Nibile]

yes but theres also cresciano this weekend, if the weather is good!!!
just cant wait...

[Andy F]

There's a class 7A+/7B I want to get back on at Malham, only problem is the 7c route which finishes it off...

[Stubbs]

Magnetic Fields?

[Andy F]

Just to the right of Magnetic.

[yoda]

This month I will be mostly trying to tick Layback Arete,Sulky Little Boys,New Jerusalem and the Titfield Thunderbolt,probably with not much success LOL

[Nibile]

yes yes fucking yes.

i love chironico.

[Blunk]

Today I finally sent this:



Not me in pic, no camera within miles.

Spotted this line 4 years ago, birth of children, injuries, etc. prevented success until now.

And to top it off, the 190 lb guy I was spotting slipped just as I was leaning over adjusting the pad, caught me with a flying elbow smash to the back of the head. Knocked me flat, and my vision was very odd for a while. Doing okay now, but apparently his elbow is quite painful and swollen!

[Mike Tyson]

Nice one Blunk! Glad a nemesis is dealt with.

The perils of spotting, I have received many a knee/elbow/forearm to the face whilst trying to move the mat!!! I'm sure we all have!

[yoda]

Is that not cheating,being held on with a pole?LOL