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Keen Roof - 8B (Read 43061 times)

unclesomebody

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#100 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 10:05:31 pm
Is it 8B?

Buoux 8C

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#101 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 11:08:12 pm
Blimey. Fantastic effort. Ive only stopped climbing a matter of weeks and ive already become an old has-been.


Disclaimer- This is neither a dig nor criticism. It is said in good faith, not in jealousy or bitterness. I am crap, James is ace. I weak, james is strong. I have a small one, James has a big one etc etc etc.

irish si

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#102 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 05:08:25 am
yeah fucking hell, I leave him alone for one weekend and look what happens.

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#103 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 11:21:07 am
Very nice James.

chappers

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#104 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 03:06:38 pm
8B flash by Pearson!    10/17
 
Email from Shane Boen: "Hello, thought I would let you know about James Pearson's (UK) impressive tick list from his recent short visit to Colorado. One of his goals was to flash 8B, and he came very close on a number of problems, including Nuthin but sunshine and Dark waters. He finally managed his goal, flashing Secret splendor on Sunday 15th October. He also almost did Freaks of the industry, 8B+, on his first redpoint attempt, but failed to get good enough conditions on return visits.
Bush pilot 8A, 3rd go
No more greener grass, 8A+, 1 session
Dark waters, 8B, almost flashed fell on the 7B finish!
Clear blue sky, 8B
Silverback, 8A, 1 hour
Secret splendor, 8B, flash
 

sound effort.

Nibile

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#105 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 03:28:16 pm
holy fucking shit
fine fine effort.
 :o

dave

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#106 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 05:19:58 pm
8B flash by Pearson!    10/17
 
Email from Shane Boen: ...

sound effort.

is that deliberatley an anagram of "ben heason" or what?

grimer

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#107 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 18, 2006, 05:46:26 pm
jesus dave, you're just levels above. Amazing

unclesomebody

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#108 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 02:17:15 pm
8B flash by Pearson!    10/17
 
Email from Shane Boen: ...

sound effort.

is that deliberatley an anagram of "ben heason" or what?

very good. So now the question is who sent the news in to 8a.nu?

dobbin

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#109 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 03:34:07 pm
I am 8a.NU!  :o

andy_e

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#110 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 04:08:20 pm
Effort James, he's gonna tear down yorkshire when he comes up here...

irish si

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#111 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 04:18:02 pm
why the fuck would he go to yorkshire, you want to see where he has just been.

andy_e

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#112 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 04:23:38 pm
I heard that he was coming up to yorkshire when he got back, that's all...

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#113 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 04:45:45 pm
ha ha. I hope he does go, High Fidelity flash?

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#114 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 04:48:01 pm
That would be fucking awesome  :thumbsup:

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#115 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 19, 2006, 05:21:27 pm
why the fk would he go to yorkshire, you want to see where he has just been.

Yeah, now he's been there, when he wants to go climbing he'll just pop on his magic rug, do three twirls, click his heels together, twist the bedknob and he magically whisked back there to climb for a few hour session before popping back for tea.

Or maybe he'll have to travel by more traditional methods and go somewhere you can drive to that has good problems, like for example, Yorkshire.  Or have I missed something and he is emmigrating?

Buoux 8C

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#116 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 09:46:08 am
ha ha. I hope he does go, High Fidelity flash?

On James current form he should do High fidelity, then head over to Malcs start for a flash at that. Then theres the big link- definetly flashable. Im in the process of changing my 'role of honour' which lists,in a statistical order, the most impressive climbers i have ever seen. Sorry Dai and Malc, make way down the ladder, a new start has been born.

8B flash, that makes him the most accomplished boulderer ever! and the fact he's never done an 8B+ makes it even more impressive.

Some words from the big gun, he's as modest as ever, and dosent mention a downgrade, which is great;

James Pearsons is in the USA, where he has flashed Tyler Landman's Secret Splendor! Ty thought 8b when he established this problem, and the grade was confirmed by Daniel Woods (no stranger to hard climbing), James writes :

so... after many days of no climbing and photo related epics, i finaly had a decent weekend. went to evans yesterday and did silverback and made good progress on the worm proj. went to the park today and finally conditions were ok. got decent photos and then went over to try nottin. decided to try ty's problem secret splendor to warm my fingers up. The holds felt ok, and so got chalked up,9 planed my sequence and got super psyched. i was almost shaking with nerves, but i set off, tried very hard and found myself at the top. feeling confident, i rested in prep for an attempt of nottin. i flashed through the low hard section, falling on the high crux. then fell off twice on the last tricky move to the jug due to tired muscles and sore skin. so close to being my best day ever...

Johnny Brown

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#117 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 10:15:46 am
Makes you wonder what his best day ever was?

I can't see High Fidelity getting flashed for a few years yet. Cypher might be a better bet, though he's been on it before so it might have to be a 'day flash'

Scouse D

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#118 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 10:46:03 am
You mean a 'Roberts' Flash'?

Doylo

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#119 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 11:06:14 am
From 8a.nu

Quote
Both Paul Robinson and Matt Wilder now say Secret splendour is not 8B, but rather 8A+. Says Robinson: " I dont think it is 8B. Most people are considering soft 8A+ now. New beta has been found, def not 8B."
Jamie Emerson reports: "Matt Wilder has done Secret Splendour 3rd go and said it is bottom end V12 (8A+). Wilder tried to flash the four move problem, and fell on the third move. He then did the upper moves first go (which he humbly counted as an attempt) and then did the problem second try from the start, saying that it was an entry level V12. Still an impressive flash from James Pearson, but not 8B."
It seems we'll have to wait some more for the first 8B flash, but like Emerson said, it's still a very impressive flash!

Typical innit, Paul Robinson takes the grade for every single problem that he does in the US apart from the one that gets flashed by a brit.

Cyril Sneer i say


RASTATA

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#120 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 11:14:24 am
If is bottom end 8a+ why then is still on his scorecard as 8b?

http://www.8a.nu/site2/index.php?country=USA

 :wank:

squeek

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#121 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 11:50:47 am

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#122 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 12:26:32 pm
Awesome effort!!

didn't fred nicole flash an 8b a few years ago though?

chris

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#123 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 12:45:20 pm
yeah, im pretty sure i read that somewhere; on a par with fred nicole. respect :thumbsup:

Doylo

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#124 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 20, 2006, 01:18:31 pm
Fred flashed Massive Attack in Magic. Gets 8a/+ now dunnit. 8a+ flash is still pretty amazing.

 

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