The View From Behind The Wall: a SARS diaryMonday 31st March--To tell you the truth, until now I hadn't been takingany of the reports seriously. China is a big place,and my first thought was of just another panic story,plus with a war on at the moment it's easy to getdistracted from rest of the news. Besides, on the 19ththe China Daily - the English-language version of thestate newspaper - was reporting that the "disease isnow effectively under control", a line that they stillhaven't deviated from.An e-mail from the British Consulate this morning,though, brings the first indication that the 'atypical pneumonia' has spread outside the south east. They are monitoring the situation, they say, and will keep us informed, but I don't think they've got access to any more information than I have. A handful of cases have been reported in the capital Beijing and the northern province of Shanxi, but with only 50-odd deaths worldwide I think that makes this new bug considerably less of a killer than TB, say, or even the 'flu, especially in a country of 1.4 billion people. The Rolling Stones, though, are apparently not so keen to play the odds. What were to have been their first ever tour dates within China (one show in Beijing, one inShanghai) have been pulled, although this may have hadmore to do with the fact that the communistauthorities had reportedly issued them with a list of'banned' songs - which, if played, would seriouslyundermine the moral fibre of the Chinese public -along with the threat of revoking their permission forthe concerts.Tuesday 8th April--Another circular from the consulate. Britain has nowissued advice against travelling to China, but so farit only applies to the 'infected areas' of Hong Kongand the south east. I don't think I'll be booking myticket out of here just yet.Sadly all too Chinese is the story that the WHO teamsent to investigate the situation still - after a week- haven't been given permission by the authorities tovisit Guangdong province. "This is an internal matterfor China to deal with," says government spokesmanKong Quan, with clear overtones of 'Go Home, WHO'. MrKong's regular briefings are starting to be almost as entertaining as those of Iraqi information minister Mohammed al-Sahaf, very tenaciously treading the Party line as he does. At the same press conference, Kong makes a special point of mentioning that no foreigners have been found to be infected. No doubt about itthen: this is an Internal Matter.Meanwhile, Chengdu life continues as normal, as do theup-beat news reports about the 'effective measures'that have been taken to combat the virus, although thedeath count does seem to have been rounded downslightly in the China Daily propaganda sheetTuesday 15th April--In the course of a week the death toll has more thandoubled, but the local papers have accused the Foreignpress of playing up the epidemic. If the figures areto be believed though, the recovery rate is still veryhigh - around 95% - and I still have no intention ofpanicking. The latest update from the consulate bringsit slightly closer to home though: there are now fourreported cases in Sichuan - my province - and onedeath. Word of mouth from contacts around town putsthe real numbers at around double the officialstatistics, but that still has to be put intoperspective of a population of almost 100 millionacross the province, and 10 million of those inChengdu city.My main concern is the news that anyone suspected of contracting SARS will be placed in an isolation unit and denied visitors, including consular staff. "Our ability to provide assistance to any British nationals who fall ill may therefore be restricted", they say, although the prevailing advice is still to stay put, and as usual there's some good news to finish with: two patients originally suspected of having SARS in nearby Chongqing have since been discharged with nothing more than a common cold.Saturday 19th April Daily mask count: 2--This morning I spot the first two surgical masks I'veseen in Chengdu since the outbreak began, and thecity's parks, teahouses and shopping malls arenoticeably quiet for a Saturday. The faked Prada andLouis Vuitton branded masks, apparently de rigeur downin Hong Kong, don't seem to have hit the market stallsyet though.The word on the street yesterday was that theAmericans have pulled all their non-essential staffout of China, and the Peace Corps all left weeks ago,but I walk past the US consulate and it looks likebusiness as usual: Marines guarding the inside to keepthe Chinese out, and the People's Liberation Armyguarding the outside to keep the Americans in. When Imention this to my American colleague though, he tellsme he's considering leaving too. These yanks, they'lljump at anything.Monday 21st April Daily mask count: 0--The news this morning is ominous. Filling in the gapsbetween the state-controlled TV news and the BBC worldservice it looks like China has just admitted that thetrue extent of the virus might be as much as ten timeswhat we'd been told before. "Public servants who havefailed in their duties should be held accountable forthe damage incurred as a result", says this morning'sChina Daily, reporting the sacking of health ministerZhang Wenkang and another Party official for theirpart in the cover-up. Or rather, the cover-up of thecover-up - I am not buying the 'China comes clean'line. It may look like turning over a new leaf, but tome this all smacks a bit too much of typical OldChina: declare a scapegoat and have them conveniently disappear, taking all the awkward questions and negative publicity with them, then take a lot of steps- no matter how ineffectual - to shift attention towhat is being done to combat the spread. China Dailyagain: "The government has declared an all-out waragainst SARS and mobilised all resources… in order towin it." All of this gets rid of the 'bad guys' while simultaneously leaving the leadership smelling of roses. There is still a cover-up, of course, it's just that the Chinese public are so used to not being told the whole story that no-one really thinks to mention it any more.Worse than all this, though, is the news thatforthcoming national holiday week is being cancelledin an effort to stop vast numbers of people movingaround and carrying anything nasty with them, plus mysocialite expat friend in Chongqing e-mails to sayshe's having to cancel the party she was throwing thisweekend. Great. All masked up and nowhere to go...Tuesday 22nd April Daily mask count: 3--The distinctive odour of Dettol greets me as I walkinto work this morning, and I notice that new postershave been put up around the school. Smiling cartoonfigures warn me to wash my hands, take plenty ofexercise, leave all the windows open and stay awayfrom crowded places. Stay away from crowded places?Last time I checked, the whole of China was one largecrowded place - this last bullet point has me institches on the way to class.They're obviously taking the hand washing seriouslythough. Soap has appeared in the school toilets forthe first time ever, and people are actually using it.Crikey. I also notice the three nurses in the school infirmirary are masked, although no one else is following their example yet. The students seem to have got the message too, especially about leaving windows open. The noise from the building site across the road is almost deafening during my afternoon senior class, and I try to close them: "No!" thirty students shout in unison, "Fresh Air is Good For Our Health". They sound like they're reading from a mental script. It might well be good for your health, but it's certainly not great for your education, or your English teacher's nerves.A telephone call from vice-principal Hu in theevening: "So, I think you have heard something aboutthis so-called SARS? I don't think you should travelvery far from the school, or eat in any restaurants.Also stay away from any crowded places." Well, I won't be going into the classroom any morethen, I joke."Haha." - it's the laugh that says "Don't bedifficult","Every day we are spraying our school with somemedicine. So you will be safe." It sounds more like acommand. It does explain the smell though.Wednesday 23rd April Daily mask count: 0--Lunch with a student in the school canteen: "Do youworry about this atypical pneumonia?" I ask, giving itthe Chinese name. "You know, I hear a lot of information about it, butit is difficult to get that feeling because the peoplearound me are healthy. If this disease comes to me,then maybe there isn't anything I can do." Shecontinues, "There are lots of diseases around us, andthis is just one; we should always be careful.""What about the cancelled holiday?""Well, at least no holiday means no homework" sheshrugs.All sorts of old wives' tales are doing the roundsthis afternoon - my favourite is that washing yourhands ten times in a day can keep you safe. Accordingto the students of class 3, nine times is too few, buteleven is simply OTT. Unfortunately I can't put thatto the test yet as the water supply to my apartmentblock is off all evening, so I guess I'll just have tosit on my own with the windows open.Thurs 24th April Mask count: 1Anxiety level: Cynically low -- Mr Yin, the retired principal who lives on campus,wanders into my office during the morning break. "Ijust wondered, how is your health?" he asks in hiskindly grandfather way."Excellent, Mr Yin, no problems!" I answer,pleasantly. He nods."Good, good. Just checking." He smiles as if this is aregular occurrence.He's never checked before.The news that junior and middle schools in Beijing arebeing closed fires up the rumour mill again thisafternoon: our school will close... our school willstay open but the students will not be allowed home atthe weekend... a girl in junior grade 2 has SARS...teachers are being issued with masks...George, the class clown of 18B, is sporting a surgicalmask in my afternoon lesson."Why are you wearing that, George? Are you worried?""No, but it looks cool" With George, it's hard to tellif he's joking.Afternoon break, and the announcement over theclassroom loudspeaker sounds a positive note. Theforthcoming holiday has been reinstated by the powersthat be, but has been cut from five days to three. Ifthe Central Committee deem this to be better for ourcollective health, then who am I to argue? Someholiday is, at least, better than none at all. I askTony, a student in senior 1, about his plans:"I don't know. I'll probably just hang out in thecity, but my parents have told me to stay away frompublic places.""Will you follow their advice?""Maybe." A grin.Fri 25th April Mask count: 11 Anxiety level: Medium--Furious on my return from work to find three workmenhave let themselves into my apartment and are busily fumigating. "What is it?" I ask, in Chinese, indicating the Heath-Robinsonian contraption strapped to the back of one, but the only response I can get from them is a toothy grin and a thumbs-up. The old policy of not troubling the Foreigner with an explanation is obviously at work. I usher them out just as they're about to spray the kitchen, still with absolutely no idea what it is they're using. It smells like chlorine, but I'm not taking any chances - it could, after all, be doing me more harm than good. I telephone Mr Hu: "There were some workers in my apartment, spraying some chemical. What is it?" "Haha." How I hate that laugh. "Don't worry. It is good for your health."Meanwhile, away from Chengdu, the worsening situationin northern China has led the FCO to extend theirtravel advisory to Beijing and Shanxi provinces.Beijing schools are closing as of today, and newscomes down the grapevine that British nationals -especially teachers, and including some friends ofmine - are starting to leave the capital. This is notgood news, although I keep reminding myself just howfar away it all is. Today's dose of governmenthypocrisy comes in reports that the Supreme People's Procuratorate (China's top prosecuting body) plan to bring criminal charges against those involved in 'spreading rumours' and 'fabricating SARS information' under public security laws. So, that'll be at least half the government under lock and key then.Sat 26th April Masks: Lost count Anxiety: Medium--Overnight, the number of masks visible on the streetsof Chengdu has mushroomed, and now they're everywhere.Although many of them look suspiciously homemade, andprobably not much use against any airborne particlessmaller than a Malteser, it's still quite adisconcerting experience to be the only unmaskedpassenger on a crowded city bus."I know that now many people are afraid of taking thecontagion that is popular in China", writes Zhang, aformer student, by e-mail, "you'd better take care."Thanks Zhang, I will, although I think I must havemissed that particular MORI poll.No water again all day, so the constant hand washinghas had to be shelved, and the problem with leavingall the windows open - as instructed - is themosquitoes. Having recently returned from their wintersojourn, the little blighters are everywhere, and Istill haven't decided whether it's malaria or SARSthat poses the biggest immediate threat. Sun 27th April Masks: Lots Mosquitoes: OuchAnxiety: Shaken, not stirred-- Masks are out in force again today, although manypeople seem to think that wearing them around theneck, rather than over the mouth, will suffice. Thecity seems alarmingly quiet for a sunny weekend, and Ieven get a seat on the bus - a rare treat.Spend the afternoon at the teahouse with another BCteacher. She confirms the rumours that ourcounterparts in Beijing are on their way home - allbut three out of eighteen have decided to leave – butwe reflect that this may have more to do with theschool closures leaving many of them without jobs togo to, and both agree that we're more likely to be runover than contract SARS. We make a pact that we're notgoing to leave Chengdu unless the advice changes.SARS is, unsurprisingly, also the main topic ofconversation this evening when I go for dinner withthe family of one of my Chinese colleagues. Hisparents have been out shopping for traditional herbalmedicine, and on their return I ask them if they'reworried."Of course, this is the first time we've been outsideall week!" Says his mother. She goes on to tell us allthat the Pacific Plaza - a prestigious downtowndepartment store - is virtually deserted with therumour that one of the staff there has died. We allnod sagely, but no-one around the table has any way ofknowing if this is true or just another rumour.Mon 28th April Masks: Classes 7, 8 & 9Mozzies: %#$*! Anxiety: Edgy -- Class 7 seem to be struggling with the concept thattaking part in a speaking lesson might be hindered bya good third of them wearing face masks, but then inthe afternoon I'm issued with one of my very own toeven up the odds, and spend the rest of the dayimagining how my lessons might work if everyone iscovered up. English language teaching via the mediumof mime would certainly bolster my CV. My new fashionaccessory doesn't look especially sterile though, so Ithink I'll just slide it into the drawer for now, andkeep it for best.Two BC friends stationed in the nearby city ofChongqing e-mail to tell me they're going this weektoo rather than face virtual house arrest by theirrespective schools. I don't think they'd try thathere, and it would be difficult to keep me on site ifthey wanted to, but you never know.Today's other bombshell is that the holiday is now offagain. I cannot adequately express in words howannoyed I am, and would consider throwing a sickie ifthat wouldn't result in a swift trip to the isolationward.Wed 30th April--Institutional paranoia at school has stepped up a fewmore gears today. The security guards are all masked,for a start (although this doesn't stop them removingthem for a cigarette), and access to the main compoundis now via a disinfectant-soaked mat, just in casewe've stepped in any SARS recently. I also notice thatan 'isolation room' has been set up next to the schoolnurse's office. "There isn't anyone to isolate, isthere?" I ask."There might be, in the future," replies my colleague,before remembering a suitable English idiom: "BetterSafe Than Sorry!"At lunchtime, I discover that all the teaching staffare being asked to have an injection, and as usual noone sees the need to question this. No one except me,that is: "What is it?" I ask another teacher, stilllooking pale after his jab. "It is some medicine tomake us stronger. I will not get the SARS now!" hedeclares. I remain unconvinced. So far I've been ableto avoid it by saying I don't want to be injected if Idon't know what the 'medicine' is. When they find outwhat it is for me, only to discover I still don't wantit, I'm not sure what they'll do.A series of phone calls to various parts of China inthe evening reveals that of the 80 British Councilteachers that flew out together at the beginning ofthe year, almost 30 have left. It's starting to feelquite lonely...Thurs 1st May--In an ideal, SARS-free world, today would have beenthe first day of my week-long holiday, but instead itwas just another day's uphill struggle in theclassroom. Neither I, nor any of the students reallywanted to be there today, and they certainly made itclear in their complete unwillingness to participate.To be honest, I don't blame them either.There's news that a middle school in Pixian, about30km away, has been put under quarantine for afortnight – with the staff and students confinedinside – because of a suspected case. Of course nobodyknows if this is a ‘real' case or just a phantom one,but I'm beginning to worry that this school might takeup the idea. Fri 16th May--No entries for the last fortnight because everythingseemed to have gone off the boil a little, andnormality was almost returning. The daily mask counthas disappeared because no one seems to be wearingthem any more – I get the distinct impression that thepeople of Chengdu are just bored with it all. Thepredicted apocalypse didn't happen, so everyone justgot back on with their lives.Another abrupt u-turn this evening, though, when I getthe news that “Weekends are cancelled for the nextthree weeks.†It's nothing more than quarantine bystealth, of course. The students, who normally boardduring the week anyway, have been told that “it willbe better for your studies†to stay at school for anintensive three-week period with the promise offinishing earlier for the summer, and the staff haveno choice but to stay in order to give lessons:Saturday is now an extra Monday, while Sunday becomes Wednesday. Everybody, of course, sees through the scheme straight away, so a further excuse is rapidly drummed up – at harvest time (i.e. now), there is an increased danger from migrant workers returning from infected areas to the east. This may not be completely false, but I'm still not buying into the idea of working 21 days without a break, so I politely but firmly tell the school that the contract I have with them says nothing about working weekends. Sadly my Chinese colleagues don't have the benefit of such protections, and so begins three weeks of sluggish students, exhausted teachers and SARS only conspicuous by its absence.Sat 17th May--I must have had my temperature taken more times todaythan in the past three years. Attempting to escapefrom campus for the day, a friend and I get on the busfor Luodai, an historic village just outside theChengdu suburbs. The trip of just over an hour seesthree separate health checkpoints, at each of which weare made to fill in our particulars and have ourtemperature checked with a sinister-looking deviceresembling something from Star Trek, which magicallyreads temperature by shining a red light at myforehead. Can this really be effective? Then again,I'm not sure how good an indication of SARS yourtemperature really is, but they must be seen to bedoing something.It's precisely these kind of travel restrictions thatare worrying me. Some cities have reportedly beencordoned off completely – banning movement in or out –while others are operating a policy of ‘if you leave,you can't come back'. If the situation worsens anymore, the possibility of being stranded here willbecome a very real one.Mon 19th May--Today might herald the demise of Chengdu's #2participation sport, spitting (a close second afterstaring), as a city-wide ban is announced, subject tospot fines of 200Y. The usual cacophonous citysoundtrack of swilling, hoicking and gobbing isunchanged, though, when I cycle to the market atlunchtime. Back in school too, everyone is stillspitting – although perhaps being a little morediscreet about it – and in class any mention of thenew regulation brings hoots of laughter. A laudableidea, of course, but it's not going to make theslightest bit of difference.Tues 20th May--I am 'invited' (a phone call at 8am told me to beready for twenty past) to a briefing by the MunicipalForeign Affairs Office. Nothing surprising, justmaking a big effort to reassure us that Everything IsUnder Control without actually giving any informationor any straight answers to questions - no surprisethere. I make it onto local TV because the cameras arethere in force ("Look! We are Talking to Foreigners!")and I ask some questions:Me - "Where will the isolations take place?"Official - "We will isolate people in a place we call 'Isolating Place for Suspected Patients'." Me - "How long will the isolation last?" Official - "No longer than necessary." Me - "What are the conditions like?" Official - "Other people are satisfied with them." Me - "What will happen if a person refuses to co-operate?" Official - "Hahaha. This will not happen."Chinese officials are champion question-avoiders. The thing about it all is, they were trying to tell usall that the situation here in Sichuan isn't reallyall that bad ("because of the Effective Measures" -note that no-one has ever said what these are), whichis pretty much what I thought anyway, but because it'sonly now - after over a month - that anyone hasthought it necessary to gather the Foreigners togetherin a posh hotel conference room and say so, I'mbeginning to have doubts. If anything I'm lessreassured now than I was before!What I really wanted was some hard information abouttravel restrictions outside of the province, but earlyon in the briefing we were told they could onlycomment on what was happening in this province. Ithink one of the biggest problems is that the lefthand doesn't even acknowledge the existence of theright, never mind know what it's doing. Still, atleast it got me out of two morning classes.Wed 21st May--I must have been the only person that missed my debut appearance on Sichuan TV last night, and I am the talk of the office this morning. They didn't bother to translate anything I said though, and I get the distinct impression that I was made out to be a 'Happy Foreigner being reassured by caring Party officials'.Fri 23rd May--Only four weeks left to teach - I wonder if weekendswill be reinstated before then. The students have been noticeably suffering all week from their three-week stay-at-school marathon, and it's only going to get worse next week. In my opinion, nobody benefits from this - they're certainly in no mood to learn anything- but since when has anyone here listened to myopinion?What's really looming over me at the moment is thatSARS might well put paid to my plans to travel afterthe end of my teaching contract. Restrictions andquarantine requirements are changing on a daily basis,and there is no reliable information to be had. On theother hand, the worst of it really does seem to beover now. Numbers of new cases have been falling everyday, and the precautions that the government havefinally taken, athough draconian, do seem to be havingsome effect.All being well, and assuming I don't get locked awayfor sneezing, I'll be back in a couple of months.Until then, rest assured that I'll be washing my handsten times a day, keeping the windows open and stayingaway from crowded places...Ben Hill d80f0u@yahoo.co.uk
China sounds half very interesting and cool, and half terrifying.
