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Birkett, McClure, Simpson and Parry on limestone (Read 3210 times)

Mick Ryan

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Now then........

Just so you don't have to click on over to that 'other' place.

In the Peak Steve McClure has snagged an old project at Dovedale's Ilam Rock between Eye of the Tiger and Gladiator. Steve reports, "It starts up Eye of the Tiger then goes straight up to join Gladiator for a few moves then swings back out right over the bulge to end at double bolt belay. Three pegs and good small wires protect." He flashed it after a look on abseil and offers the grade of E6 6c.

Up north in Yorkshire Dave Birkett thought he'd have a quick play on Mandela 8b, the huge capping roof at Kilnsey Crag first aided by Ron Mosley in 1957 and freeclimbed by Mark Leach in 1988. He nearly ended up doing it first day and finding it in his own words as "atmospheric and not like a sport climb". He got it yesterday. It has only had a handful of reported ascents.

On the North Buttress of Kilnsey Gareth Parry added a link up: Full Tilt into Urgent Action, calling it Full Action and offering a grade of 8b.

At the Hollywood Bowl near Giggleswick Rich Simpson has had a look at two Steve Dunning routes reported at UKClimbing earlier in the month (news), Angel Eyes 8b+ and Tonto (ungraded) which Rich after a look, thinks maybe in the 8c/8c+ range although he has yet to go for the redpoint.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

dave

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good to see hard trad limestone is not quite dead.

(isn't mandela reconed at 8a/+ these days or did i just imagine that?)

Dave Westlake

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At the Hollywood Bowl near Giggleswick Rich Simpson has had a look at two Steve Dunning routes reported at UKClimbing earlier in the month (news), Angel Eyes 8b+ and Tonto (ungraded) which Rich after a look, thinks maybe in the 8c/8c+ range although he has yet to go for the redpoint.


Is this really "News" Mick??? :-\

 :off: Hows the shop by the way?  Hope Hulio Geordio's ditched his desire to  :shag: Barnsey?!?  :oops:

Paul B

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good to see hard trad limestone is not quite dead.

(isn't mandela reconed at 8a/+ these days or did i just imagine that?)

I remember kristian telling me that the hardest part of it was finding it in good condition...(Without nasty mud seeping out of the pockets etc)

underground

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Now then........

Just so you don't have to click on over to that 'other' place.
So what's with the link then?

Quote
Up north in Yorkshire Dave Birkett thought he'd have a quick play on Mandela 8b, the huge capping roof at Kilnsey Crag...  He nearly ended up doing it first day...
What's a 'capping roof'

What's this mean?: He nearly ended up doing it first day...? But may well spend 5 days on the project?

Quote
At the Hollywood Bowl near Giggleswick Rich Simpson has had a look at two Steve Dunning routes reported at UKClimbing earlier in the month (news), Angel Eyes 8b+ and Tonto (ungraded) which Rich after a look, thinks maybe in the 8c/8c+ range although he has yet to go for the redpoint.

Quote
http://www.ukclimbing.cock/bollocks

I was always on the fence really, actually I didn't care about the stuff you posted but following the previous few days posts, you really are an utter cunt Mick. And believe me, we will never meet.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2006, 03:01:37 pm by Bubba »

Mick Ryan

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Is this really "News" Mick??? :-\

 :off: Hows the shop by the way?  Hope Hulio Geordio's ditched his desire to  :shag: Barnsey?!?  :oops:

My definition of news is as broad as the climbing communities: what is a non-event to some will be engrossing stuff to others. The main limit is time (mine) and space.

Shops good. I'll ask Revolutionary Leader Barnsey on Monday.

Mick

 

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