[nathan wind]

ok,

broke my little toe doing a bit of kung fu this morning, not good, gonna take a while to heal..

pretty pissed off 'cos as I cant see me being able to get a pair of trainers on for a while, let alone a pair of undersized 5.10's... ironically it had to happen just as I could sense some cooler weather and decent bouldering temps on the horizon!!

As you can appreciate I'm a bit gutted, was totally psyched for the autumn and grit but now want to keep training in a way that I can stay reasonably strong and minimise the impact of all this, any suggestions? fingerboards and campussing? anyone had a similar experience??

any help or advice would be greatly appreciated..

[SA Chris]

Both will work, or one footed bouldering. Have you got the toe strapped up? I feel your pain (literally); I managed to break 4 at once.

[Nibile]

nathan,
i really understand you frustration. a long ago, i badly broke a hand in a very stupid way, just as the autumn friction was approaching. i was ut for ages. but this wont be your case. youll heal fast, and youll find yourself very strong from the campussing, the fingerboard routines, and the one-footed traversing/bouldering. then, youll just have to learn how to properly use you power and renewed equilibrium, and youll be ready to rock and roll.

[Falling Down]

..... renewed equilibrium...

That sounds good. Where can I get some?

[nathan wind]

cheers for the advice guys..

foot hurts like f**k today and is pretty bruised and such, was kind of optimitic yesterday but am resigned to the fact I'm out for a while.. strange how such a seemingly insignificant thing can put you out of action! still looking on the positive side its not a popped tendon or anything like that and theres plenty I can do to stay fit. creating the mother of all fingerboards is my initial plan, plus loads of stretching and getting on an exercise bike for a bit. gonna resist the temptation to order loads of beer from the offy... prolly get on with the mini guide to woodhouse and west vale.. no excuses now!!

[lorentz]

Dude...

Unlucky! But like you say plenty of scope to beast up. It'll heal up soon, but be careful not to knock it again when you're training and try keeping leg elevated when you're sitting down.

Broke my left big toe when I was 13 big style. Jumping for a pull up bar at top of some stairs (an early experimental dyno start to pull up if you will...) and clipped top step (barefoot) with big toe. Resounding crack and nail came out at the back. Infection set in. 6months on crutches and two operations later I aquired some titanium pins and lost the nail. On the positive side the crutches were great for up body work outs (used to be able to walk on them with both feet off the ground!) and one less nail to cut/ingrow from being crammed into tiny rubberised shoes.

Good luck with it, squire!

[Bonnylad]

Ey up lad, I've broken two toes in my time, most recently stubbed one on a ladder trying to jump over it. Was sugned off sick so imprivised some invalid climbing boots. I used an old pair of approach shoes (stiff vibram sole, more like mountain boots) and took a kitcken knife to some old 5.10s and "re-soled" the toe area.

Loads of free time, climbing boots which were actually comfy, if you disregard the fact my toe was giving it large, and empty-crag cragging. You look a twat in odd boots, but at least you can be a "clever" one, like Ray Mears as you explain your self-reliance and resoursefulness. Watch how they wonder how you waltz up hard problems in big boots!

[Bonnylad]

Actually, think yourself lucky. I've injured a finger at work and it impacts my climbing far more in that I cannot crimp at all (impact/crush injury), doing slabs handless is for pussies

[nathan wind]

Actually, think yourself lucky.

Yeah I know what you mean.. I'd be gutted if something like that had happened.. at least I can do some training.. have had three sessions on moon fingerboard since I got injured which has been cool.. its just doing my head in as its getting cooler and I wanted to use the next month or so to get sharper and hone strength outdoors.

Was thinking of trying to top rope easy routes indoors in about two weeks, wearing either a trainer or hacked up old climbing shoe, just to get a bit of stamina and counterbalance all the fingerboard stuff if anything.

I'd be interested to know how long it took before people could wear their normal rock shoes again if they've had a similar injury..? I'm hoping four weeks? 'cos I'm a boulderer my biggest concern is more to do with constantly landing on a mat and fucking it all up again and pain preventing precise footwork on small holds...   

[LucyB]

I broke my little toe about 4 weeks ago, was really gutted.

_{specially 'cos i dropped the hoover on it....}
 

I thought I'd be out for a while, but was bored after a week so I tried my climbing shoes on. I've been okay in my anastazi slippers, which luckily I did get quite big. I've been able to keep them on for longer and longer sessions, you just have to ignore the pain until it's too bad.

I had a really long session yesterday, but I still can't get my velcros on - no heel-hooking on my right foot for me just yet.

I've been surprised at how much I've been able to climb, I did suspect it wasn't broken, just bruised, except that it is now a very odd shape!