What was the cunning on the undercuts problem?
Quote from: r-man on August 21, 2006, 12:39:15 amWhat was the cunning on the undercuts problem?don't use the undercut.
The curving flake right again of Fingers is great too, although I have yet to get to the top break. Really cool sequence using heel/toe action and plenty of potential knee damage.
I thought the curving flake thing is on fingers, hence the scouse photo above? I can't se where the mick adams thing between Fingers and the easy problem just right goes.
Quote from: dave on August 31, 2006, 09:42:27 pmI thought the curving flake thing is on fingers, hence the scouse photo above? I can't se where the mick adams thing between Fingers and the easy problem just right goes.My understanding is that Fingers goes directly up edges from the huge jug (about 1.5 metres right of Simple Simon), with a right heel on edges below the curving flake, finishing on the ledge. That's the way me and my mates climb it anyway and it certainly seems the obvious way to climb that section - the edges are lovely to use, the flake is pretty much out of reach and an independent line. The flake is climbed from the jugs on the 6b to the right of fingers, using a harsh RF heel toe lock thing and some cool undercutting with the left hand until you can slap to the high break. This is how Mick climbed the flake; leaving the start of the 6b and heading up the flake as I just described, always away from the Fingers problem to the left. That's our beta for them anyway. Obviously our methods are totally correct and cannot be argued with.
dare i used the word 'eliminate' yes i dare.
Since Fingers Start is the start to a route (Fingers In Every Pie E6) it would seem pretty clear that it would go up using everything, as routes do - the 89 staffs guide certainly doesn't say "climb up to the break using everything except the large obvious flake because someone might want to use it to shoehorn a barely independant eliminate boulder problem in between this and the next route some time in the next 20 years".