[LongMonkey]

A long time ago (perhaps 10 or more years) I remember seeing a photo in a climbing mag of some guy climbing a wall on well chalked/cleaned edges. I can't remember anything much about it other than the grade was E7 5c. It looked like it was on grit though and I thought that must be one of the easiest E7 ticks in the country.

Firstly does anyone know the route I'm talking about (well done if you do from my description!)?

Secondly, does anyone know of other routes with seemingly misplaced technical grades? I'm sure if I looked around in guide books I'd find plenty but thought it might be an amusing topic.

[andy_e]

Typing mistake? E7 6c surely.

Then again, I once read on here of an E6 5c on a "vertical grass slope" or something.

[tommytwotone]

Verandah Butress @ Stanage is HVD 5b innit - think that's the weirdest odd grade combo I've ever done.

[Bungle.]

there is always the classic Northern Ballet in the Chew Valley E4 5a excellent route...

[Houdini]

You could meander all over Cilan Head, Lleyn @ the general grade of E7 5C.  Loose rock = scary numbers & mismatched grades.

Red Walls, Gogarth.  Somewhere here must be some E6/7 5C, somewhere.

[SA Chris]

That sort of grade is normally reserved for loose rock, unlikely on anythnig solid.

The old Yorkshire Grit Guide had a typo, where central crack on cracked buttress at Brimham was graded VD instead of VS. On my first day ever climbing on YG, guess which route was the first one I got on?

[Bonjoy]

The Antichrist in the Devil's Limekiln, Lundy. FA James McAffie

Goes up the right side of the wall. Not sure if it crosses the hanging carpet.

[JR]

death trap direct is E6 5c, similarly the standard way is E5 5b.

[grimer]

And as for it being the easiest E7, I'm pretty sure I'd rather be on Masters Edge than on something graded E7 5c.

Oh, and I've never thought that Red Walls were particularly loose. I don't think I've ever pulled or kicked anything off there.

[Mark Lloyd]

I managed to snap a hold on wendigo as I was trying to place some wires with my other hand, I only had one runner in at the time as the climbing was easy, luckely it held else I would have come direct on the hanging belay from about 40ft above. I did loose my glasses in the sea which made for an entertaining escape.

[hongkongstuey]

Oh, and I've never thought that Red Walls were particularly loose. I don't think I've ever pulled or kicked anything off there.

I almost came a cropper near the top of Fantasia many years back - matelled onto a fridge sized block right near the top and the whole thing detatched (with me on it). Ended up taking a 40 footer and the block narrowly missed my belayers head by a couple of feet. Had to chop about 10m of both my ropes where the block partly crushed them, very close call.

On the plus side the block made an almighty explosion on the ledges at the base of the crag and scared the living daylights out of all the old biddies at the cafe (as well as me)

[JohnM]

An E7 5C would have to be something like climbing sustained numerous 5c crux moves on snappy holds on a detached flake (likely to come free of the main cliff) with the only gear in said flake 70ft above a horrendous landing!  I'm sure there will be something like that on the Lleyn.

[LongMonkey]

Cheers for clearing that up........in conclusion, it must have been a type-o. Still wondering what route it was though, it looked pretty cool.

[grimer]

I've lost my glasses twice while climbing. One pair rattled down the chimney on Rat Race. The other was trying a new route in Donegal. I thought I had done the climb then slipped off. I remember feeling all my gear zip out of the crack, I hit the ground and bounced into the sea. In my panic (I can't swim) I saw my specs float off, and I thrashed downwards until my friend Al hauled me to the surface with the ropes. I then had to hitch from Derry to Sheffield with a pair of NHS specs that were about 12 years old.

[Scouse D]

I then had to hitch from Derry to Sheffield with a pair of NHS specs that were about 12 years old.

...Because you're usually so fashion conscious eh Grimer 

[Houdini]

Cool digression.

One time I punched my spectacles off my face somewhere on the Seamstres Slab.  I'm -4.75.  It was all a bit bunched/face-in-rock shit.  The down-climb was a farce.

Climbing in spex is poo.  Totally robs the you of peripheral vision and makes you move your head around like a bird of prey with every foot movement.  Meh.  Watch someone in spex and you'll see what I mean, especially  Mark Reeves.

[SA Chris]

I totally bent mine out of shape leaning over on my face on a problem at Caley. Finished the prob with them hanging off one ear. Stupidly did a sea level traverse and flicked them off my face into the sea with the hood of my hoody when I turned my head. Finishing it was fun, driving home at 9 pm with prescription sunglasses even more so,  Usually wear contact lenses now, but have 3 decent pairs now due to specsavers ineptitude.

[ouch]

I lost a pair of specs whilst climbing and now contacts.  I was climbing last winter and the wind blew some crap into my eye which like an idiot I tried rubbing away and out came the lens.  I had to down climb and drive home with one eye shut

[Dr T]

I'm too much of a pansy to wear contacts so it's glasses all the way...
on the plus side keeps the sand out of your eyes at font