Had a butchers on the new routes today. In my opinion the 8b+ (leftwards line) is of poorer quality than the direct/rightwards trending line.
The 8b+ is exceptionally reachy ( a dyno for me) and alot harder for short people- i was unable to do the move. Obviously there may be a different sequence but i didnt see it, and doing it this way felt pretty much impossible for me.
Tonto- the rightwards finish is pretty good. Starting up the magnificent 8a- Kleptomania, then firing through a very steep roof with about 4 longgggggggg hard moves leading to an easier finish. I managed all the moves quickly, but was at the limit of my reach on two of them.
I would say the rightwards line, from previous experience would be nearer the 8c/8c+ ballpark. Although i obviously didnt redpoint it, so dont take my opinion for gospel. But i will be back shortly with the intention of a redpoint.
Nevertheless, its a very good climb and a fantastic effort by Steve D.
Steve- Drop me an email, with regards to beta for these routes.
Cheers Rich
