[BenF]

Was shut down on this problem today.  Where does it go?  What do I need to do?
 
Having got through the sitstart I was trying to get established on the rib using a good edge (LH) under the bulge and slopey dish (RH) on the right hand side of the rib.  From there I was getting a foot lock and reaching up high with the left to a woeful, fat pinch on the rib above.  Moving off this was extremely hard and I couldn't really work out what to do to be honest.  Being any further right seemed to be getting a bit contrived, further left was certainly getting a bit heinous.

So who's got some beta on this? 

Thanks in advance.

[Nigel]

Hey Ben, I suppose I should provide an answer to this since I imagine there's only me and Greg who've got a clue what you're on about!

Unfortunately I can't, because I've never tried it. I know Greg's done it, but it was so long ago I doubt he'll remember, plus he's away for a bit and can't reply. All I will say is that its a Gaskins problem not one of ours, so if you find a way that feels easier than 7b you're doing it wrong. If on the other hand it feels about 8a, you're probably on the right lines.   

To be honest I'm surprised you went up to Warton Pinnacle, I'd forgotten it existed! Having said that it has some great stuff, Voodoo People, Beastmaster, and Totally Focussed are totally ace I'm sure you'll agree. Good effort for getting up there! 

[Nigel]

Oh yeah, next time you boys are at Woodwell you should have a go at my new problem in the trees. Its about twenty feet left of Not Bad Dave, it'll be all chalked up. Climbs the bulge between two cracks without using any holds in the cracks. Climb up to a pinch and a nice rounded edge and lay one on for a big edge at the top. About 7a/7a+ and really good. Details on the news on Lakesbloc.

While I'm at it, did Rigpa today. You lot were doing it spot on, should try it when you're fresh its not really that hard just reachy, but you don't have to slap at all, probably only 7a+ too. While I'm downgrading things Griddle Groove sitter is no way 8a from that edge in the roof, hard 7c/easy 7c+ I reckon, but well brown. Tom probably missed out some beta I reckon, being the brutal beast that he is. Grrr!

[BenF]

Hi there,

Thanks for the response mate, I've found a method that's stupidly hard so that'll be the Gaskins method.  I will return on a less than tropical day next time.  Maybe I can move off the pinch if it ain't 30 degrees.  Looks like a great problem if you have suckers on your hands. 

To be honest I'm surprised you went up to Warton Pinnacle, I'd forgotten it existed! Having said that it has some great stuff, Voodoo People, Beastmaster, and Totally Focussed are totally ace I'm sure you'll agree. Good effort for getting up there! 

Yeah, I'd never been up there and had a great time, so I can assure you that it does exist.  All the highballs are great and on perfect rock huh?  The harder stuff, although limited is generally pretty good.  I loved Beastmaster and Totally Focused, particularly from a sitter.  Didn't manage Voodoo People but it'll go in better conditions (or so I reckon, but we'll see).

I also went to Woodwell RH yesterday.  Tried your new problem (the one between the cracks you described above) again...  I tried it and failed on it the other week too.  Wasn't sure of the line, but now I know eh?  It's certainly a long move to the top.  Didn't go back on Rigpa but I did do Greg's new problem left of Not Bad Dave.  Kiss of the Dragon is it?  Enjoyed it but had to struggle like hell on those final crimps.

As for Griddle Groove sitter...  Tom likely did miss some beta.  Totally in keeping with the Sugden to work out that he could just beast it on some shite holds and thus avoid the easier but technical method.  I mean come on, how often does he truly use his feet? 

See you at Woodwell next time I'm there I guess, I was slightly puzzled not to bump into you yesterday when I was there.  Didn't seem right for you to be elsewhere. 

[ned]

Speaking of Griddle Groove, what holds does the sitter start on exactly? I seem to remember a crack, but I don't remember this edge you speak of…

Also (slightly off topic), at crag x, what's the sequence for Flying Finish?

Thanks

[Greg C]

Original (and most powerful) Sequence: Up the AD ramp to the jug, toe-hook the ramp (LF) toe scum under the roof (RF) slap up (RH) and right to a slopey crimp (tip: Once you've latched the this use the thumb sprag), then left heel on the jug and cross over yourself to a good edge with your LH, now bounce through to the jug (RH) and finish up the crack.

Newer (painful but less powerful) Sequence: As above to the jug, then reach out right (RH) to a painful little niche on the lip, stack your fingers in the base of this (ouch!) get your left heel on the jug and crossover (LH) to the good edge (past the slopey crimp), then jug and up the crack.

[BenF]

Greg, I don't suppose you have any beta for Debaser do you?

Thanks.

[ned]

Cheers Greg, was trying to use some sort of small sloping thing but it wasn't happening, never found the thumb sprag though.
Ill give it another go.

[Nigel]

Speaking of Griddle Groove, what holds does the sitter start on exactly? I seem to remember a crack, but I don't remember this edge you speak of…

It actually starts matched on a slopey undercut pod at the back of the roof. This is where Gaskins started it and as far as I know is unrepeated, I seem to remember 8a+ being the grade.

However, it has seen a lot of repeats now from a sitting start just under the lip, rather than the aforementioned "very back of the roof start". This "Tourists Tick" version (if you will!) starts with right hand on a quite large slopey pinchy edge thing and left hand in the good bit of the crack, level with the edge. Pulling on then doing the first move is a crux, then you could either burl it on OK-ish holds or get a foot jam above your head and work your hands up. Whatever, it is probably hard 7c/easy 7c+, or a bit harder than Screaming Slave LH. So probably 7c+.  Brilliant anyway, and not bunched or on shit rock as for the lower start.

Also (slightly off topic), at crag x, what's the sequence for Flying Finish?

Further to Greg's advice, which is spot on, the thumb "sprag" is more of a thumb "catch"; its a little notch about where your thumb goes anyway. Seems to make this way a lot easier. Also, don't forget to bump your hand to leave room for your heel! Bon chance...

[Doylo]

flying finish is desperate

[Nigel]

Ben, got some Debaser beta for you!

So, get the dishy pocket for your right hand, and the roof edge for your left. Feet pasted (though reckon a heel-toe would work), go up with your left to the thin vertical crack. Sort of backhand this, udge up, and go again with your left for the good hold in the next crack up (if you used a heel-toe to get the thin crack, you'd need to take it out to do this move, its a looong way). This was previously clogged up with a big plant which is probably why you got confused, but its clean and clear now. Agree with 7b grade, its a pretty good problem to boot. Interestingly Gaskins has indeed done a left hand version to this which takes the hanging rib more directly. Obviously it looks completely impossible to humanly climb it this way. Think it gets 7b+ 

For Voodoo People, get your right foot into the slopey pocket off the good holds, rock up a bit, then reach way out right for a small shallow sidepull pockety thing. Use this to pull you over your foot and stand all the way up. Means trusting your foot quite a lot! This move is the crux by a long way. Probably harder for the tall too.

P.S. If you lot get up there again there is an old Gaskins 8a bolt route (think I mentioned it at Woodwell) called Taken By Surprise which is actually a not very highball 7b boulder problem. Cleaned and did this today, its well worth doing if you're up there and you tall lads will cream it. Its down and right of Warton Upper, in the trees at the base of the scree. 30 seconds off the main path through scrub beneath the Upper Crag, check it out.

[ned]

Thanks for that beta Nigel. Ill have another bash at flying finish next time im up there. Need to take a spotter/more mats though as the landing is a bit of a back breaker.

I briefly tried your new double crack thing between Turbulence and AD the other day aswell. It felt really hard, dead burly.

That high Griddle Groove start sounds good too. Shame I wont be in the lakes for ages now.

[BenF]

Ben, got some Debaser beta for you!

So, get the dishy pocket for your right hand, and the roof edge for your left. Feet pasted (though reckon a heel-toe would work), go up with your left to the thin vertical crack. Sort of backhand this, udge up, and go again with your left for the good hold in the next crack up (if you used a heel-toe to get the thin crack, you'd need to take it out to do this move, its a looong way). This was previously clogged up with a big plant which is probably why you got confused, but its clean and clear now. Agree with 7b grade, its a pretty good problem to boot. Interestingly Gaskins has indeed done a left hand version to this which takes the hanging rib more directly. Obviously it looks completely impossible to humanly climb it this way. Think it gets 7b+ 

Thank you.  That sounds spot on and exactly as I was doing, although I was fairly alright with the heel toe to get the thin crack.  Incidentally, I was discussing this problem with someone yesterday and discussing Mick's ascent and apparently he has repeated the left hand version, or at least it sounds like he has done it that way anyway.  No idea what he thought of the grade.

For Voodoo People, get your right foot into the slopey pocket off the good holds, rock up a bit, then reach way out right for a small shallow sidepull pockety thing. Use this to pull you over your foot and stand all the way up. Means trusting your foot quite a lot! This move is the crux by a long way. Probably harder for the tall too.

P.S. If you lot get up there again there is an old Gaskins 8a bolt route (think I mentioned it at Woodwell) called Taken By Surprise which is actually a not very highball 7b boulder problem. Cleaned and did this today

I shall check out this old sport route and yeah you mentioned it the other day at Woodwell.  Good knowledge, plus I think I know where it is.

its well worth doing if you're up there and you tall lads will cream it. Its down and right of Warton Upper, in the trees at the base of the scree. 30 seconds off the main path through scrub beneath the Upper Crag, check it out.

  What do you mean "you tall lads"? I'm under 5'10.  Or am I being lumped in with the lankiness that is Owen, Mick and Sugden?

Anyway, thanks for all the recent information Mr Beta, it's much appreciated.  Weather permitting I'm probably going up to Warton again tomorrow.