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Trellis (Read 5670 times)

a dense loner

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Trellis
July 16, 2006, 10:47:41 am
is it crag rumour that this prob has become "impossible" due to a hold coming off? apparently it was done last wk (at the same grade), on the same day that the guy flashed a 7c dyno at el poussah crag. more from 8a.nu

unclesomebody

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#1 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 11:18:15 am
onsight dense, get it right. Onsight is worth those extra points!

north_country_boy

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#2 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 11:31:09 am
I tried Trellis back in March i think, it was my first try at it and it seemed to me that the left hand sidepull/undercut on the face had snapped off, hence the rock scar! After speaking with other people its seems that is definately the case, and it is definately harder without it, but will still go (will be considerably harder for the short i imagine?) Anyway the day i tried it there was a dead shepp in the quarry which had obviously been pelted with rocks from the top of the quarry....and unfortunately there were several obvious rock scars on the walls of quarry (near trellis) where rocks had missed the sheep!

I would like to think it has just snapped off more innocently when someone has been trying it, but i suspect that mindless vandalism may be a possible explanataion...????

a dense loner

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#3 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 01:02:10 pm
this is also what i had heard, when i said impossible i just meant a fair bit harder. not like people on 8a to take a deflated grade, apart from the obvious exceptions ;)

do people not know that the easiest way to get sheep off that ledge is by abseiling in and knocking them out before carrying them to safety?

being catholic i may be slightly biased but i'm led to believe only jesus had the power of bi-location

nik at work

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#4 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 04:20:34 pm
To be fair I have climbed in font and the peak on the same day, albeit badly...

dave

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#5 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 07:29:37 pm
i thought a sidepull had broken on trellis ages ago? pretty sure one was broken when i did it and i don't recall it making any real difference to the difficulty.

Fj

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#6 Re: Trellis
July 16, 2006, 10:14:14 pm
There seem to be an aweful lot of dead sheep about the peak this year.
Are there still dead'uns under happy campus and leroy slips a disk?

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Trellis
July 17, 2006, 09:19:49 am
 You speak like a man well versed in the art of pacifying sheep Dense. What's your prefered method, Rohypnol, or a sharp blow to the head?

a dense loner

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#8 Re: Trellis
July 17, 2006, 10:07:01 am
not me. noddy abseiled in for said sheep. apparently it wasn't too keen on the idea of being carried down in a precarious position. so noddy did what everybody would have done in the same situation, grab with left knock out with right and carry it to safety. all done to a bonnie tyler backdrop

nik at work

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#9 Re: Trellis
July 17, 2006, 11:35:12 am
There is a very funny clip of Dan getting charged by a sheep on that ledge.
For some reason he tried to video our shambolic sheep rescue attempt.
Possibly the third funniest thing I've ever seen.
I could tell ya the other two, but the I'd have to kill ya...

Johnny Brown

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#10 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 02:21:01 pm
Totally failed to the broken hold move on Trellis on monday. I dare say the tall would be less affected, but expect to make more use of the ledge on the right, and have to make a very hard slap for the big hold. I could make the distance but holding it was another matter.

Andy B

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#11 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 02:47:16 pm
I tried Trellis at the same time as Dave and Kim did it (last autumn), and the top sidepull had snapped off. Kim and Dave could still reach the edge from the lower sidepull fairly easily, but I was just short of it, and anticipated some jump/ slapping action, so sacked it off as I didn't want to lose all my skin at the start of the day. I didn't expect it to be that much harder, but it obviously is. Could the edge be reached from the right at all by working feet up the ramp, or are there no holds on or around the right rib? My memory of it is a bit hazy.

Johnny Brown

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#12 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 03:22:10 pm
Handholds on the right are shit, feet though are on a big ramp. Like I said, hitting the hold isn't too bad but it throws you back making it a real shoulder-dislocater to hold. I'm surprised you didn't have the reach though, and that Kim did. He's taller than he looks, eh? Must be his posture...

Andy B

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#13 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 03:33:16 pm
As I like to whinge about as much as possible, I have stumpy arms.  Kim's a good few inches taller than me anyway.

But I'm not bitter.

No really I'm not.

Honest.

dave

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#14 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 05:28:11 pm
I think kim looks further away than he is.

I have a hazy memory of this but I think the hold post-breakage is still pretty positive, so if you're having problem with that move it probably is just a reach thing, rather than a problem caused by the hold breaking. I.e. you'd probably have had the same problem with the old hold - infact the old hold was a little bit further left, so in its new state it could in fact be a marginally smaller reach but off a hold thats a little bit worse and a bit sandy. it could even break again for all I know.

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#15 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 05:50:49 pm
Trust me, with the old hold this move was not an issue. The new hold isn't terrible but...

Jim

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#16 Re: Trellis
October 18, 2006, 11:02:58 pm
Don't forget it was a very high gravity day on monday JB

Andy B

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#17 Re: Trellis
October 19, 2006, 08:44:15 am
Dave. You didn't use the snapped hold when you did it. You used the hold lower down. We tried using the sandy broken hold but we couldn't hold it last autumn, forcing the longer reach off the lower edge, so we don't really know how hard it will be to use the new sandy broken hold, but you obviously thought it was harder than using the lower one that shorties/ stumpies can't reach off or you would have done that way, don't you think?

I hadn't tried it before the hold snapped but it seems unlikely that shorties/ stumpies would have found this move equally hard from the old hold as from the hold a foot lower used now, or the sandy, poor higher hold that is left.

dave

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#18 Re: Trellis
October 19, 2006, 05:20:35 pm
you've obvisouly got a better memory of this than I have!  :-[ if so, then yeah its going to be significantly harder than before for the short. I had totally forgotten there even was a lower hold, infact even now I can't place it, thought i must have used it. I don't seem to have much recall of the day I did this, I think my memory is overclouded by the hours spent repeatedly failing on the tope move a few winters ago.

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#19 Re: Trellis
October 20, 2006, 12:50:43 pm
you've obvisouly got a better memory of this than I have!

Every day spent with you is etched in my memory like a power filled dream come true Dave!   :kiss2:


dave

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#20 Re: Trellis
October 20, 2006, 05:15:45 pm
stop trying to gay me up! Just cos you've got a camper van.... ::)

 

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