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Early bird. (Read 13190 times)

uptown

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Early bird.
July 09, 2006, 02:55:37 pm
Crazy Legs Crome 7c - The under Rumsfeld to Fat punter link at Whitehouses. Classic, and with a mandatory 360 degree spin to join the finish.

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: Early bird.
July 10, 2006, 08:54:38 am
Nice one yoooooot! Looks great. I love feet first stuff. Found feet first solutions to three or four problems in Oz, but can't think of any examples over here.

Houdini

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#2 Re: Early bird.
July 10, 2006, 09:33:16 am
There's a roof at Goldsborough Carr that climbs very much like this.   Not sure if it's a complete 360° turn, but it's still rad.

Paul B

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#3 Re: Early bird.
July 10, 2006, 10:36:16 am
which one? i cant seem to think of any that you end up turning 360 on?

Houdini

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#4 Re: Early bird.
July 10, 2006, 11:02:57 am
Not the best guy to ask, only been there once.  Some weird moves walking feet round a lip to some twisty stuff then up face/arete.


Could be you climb it differently...maybe...  it's very footy.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2006, 11:04:31 am by Houdini »

Pantontino

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#5 Re: Early bird.
July 10, 2006, 01:11:38 pm
George's Roof perchance?

grimer

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#6 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 10:58:20 am
Visited Goldsborough Carr lately, waht a beautiful spot. A great companion to Slipstones, just as good with different style climbing (although with my brittle knees, I didn't do all that much). Would this be the best bouldering above grass in the UK?

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 11:14:45 am
Not for long now you've said that...

I'd submit Oldridge pinnacle as the current grass champ.

grimer

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#8 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 11:46:25 am
While I'd like to imagine my words carried enough weight to precipitate mass environmental destruction...


Bonjoy

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#9 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 01:37:30 pm
 Sounds like a fair swap to me. Deal

Pantontino

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#10 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 02:30:58 pm
No, George's Roof at Goldsborough. Different kettle of ball games altogether.

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: Early bird.
July 11, 2006, 02:47:51 pm
 How about a My Buddy the Apple (best 7c highball in the peak) for a Coco Team Special/Crucifix or other suitable neo classic yorks highish 7c.

Houdini

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#12 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 09:13:42 am
I suspect you'll not find the 360° spin you're looking for, but Georges' Roof might be cool enough regardless.


Goldsborough Carr - great place to have your ashes scattered.



They're hard to remember, problems of great oddity, can't think of any more spins.  But I can recall turning over/around a feature and ending up with my back to the wall with palms facing behind me, then turning out again on the next move.
« Last Edit: July 12, 2006, 09:17:08 am by Houdini »

grimer

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#13 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 11:21:29 am
what about that higginson Teck crack Direct thing on the lower tier. Don't you hook the slopers with your toes?

Bonjoy

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#14 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 12:17:21 pm
Oh yeah, Thud 7b isn't it? Mad move. I did it by jumping off ground into the upsidedown position, I imagine it would be desperate if you pulled on normally then tried to invert.

Ru

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#15 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 12:24:23 pm
Oh yeah, Thud 7b isn't it? Mad move. I did it by jumping off ground into the upsidedown position, I imagine it would be desperate if you pulled on normally then tried to invert.

You're supposed to start it by pulling on with your feet on the back wall.... It can be started from matched on the undercuts under the roof, but this is not to be recommended as they are fragile. You can just campus off the dish too, which is how I do it, saving all the upside down faff.

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 12:28:13 pm
That'll explain why it felt soft  :-\

(woz)

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#17 Re: Early bird.
July 12, 2006, 03:58:12 pm
Is a 360 necessary on any of the toms roof problems at stoney?

Nope. You would probably do several if you fell out of it though.

james

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Bonjoy

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#19 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 08:09:03 am
http://bleau.info/isatis/602.html


Tried the 7c end section of this. Managed the upside down crazy legs bit, but found the sandy rockover/mantle bit after that horrendous!

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 08:17:39 am
So it seems the crazy legs might be unique?

I've seen someone do it on a sport route, and I'm pretty sure some boulder problem at Hueco or somewhere.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2006, 12:57:00 pm by SA Chris »

Bonjoy

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#21 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 08:22:49 am
 The last bit of Thormens Moth has got one.

james

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#22 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 08:25:05 am
the 360 spin is at the end of the sit section, before the grovel top.  It is a good move. 

andy_e

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#23 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 10:33:05 am
Apparently Witness The Fitness has 360 spins in it...


Ru

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#24 Re: Early bird.
July 13, 2006, 10:38:54 am
this is almost 360, but it's not quite what you were after:
http://bleau.info/isatis/1545.html

 

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