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moon fingerboard review (Read 11198 times)

Duma

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moon fingerboard review
July 07, 2006, 06:14:22 pm
Just recieved, installed, and wrecked myself on. Would recommend this to all - cheap, effective, good back up from the site (training plans etc) Only downside was the first one I ordered arrived in three bits :'( However that was yesterday, and all credit to them, a replacement arrived lunchtime today. :bounce:

Fine product, good value, good service.

reckon one should support and shout about small business's that do a good job. (I mention Howies?)

Bubba - how about a reviews board - or is that anti the non commercial philosophy of t' site?
« Last Edit: July 07, 2006, 06:16:28 pm by Duma »

Bubba

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#1 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 07, 2006, 11:48:03 pm

Hmmm, reviews would be fine - intending it to be a section of the site rewrite (which has been nearly happening for about the last 3 years ;) ). Could have it as stopgap measure though - what do folks think?

I love what Howies are doing...just a shame I can't afford any of their stuff.


Paul B

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#2 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 08, 2006, 02:17:29 pm
some honest reviews would be good, its been a long time since ive read a negative review of new boots (or any other equipment for that matter) and some of them are just pure crap. Seem to remember the creatine article being pretty useful too, has that gone for good?

Bubba

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#3 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 08, 2006, 02:23:07 pm

Still got that article but it's not on the web at the moment.

a dense loner

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#4 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 08, 2006, 08:30:50 pm
the moon fingerboard is the dogs bollocks, it really is that simple

andy_e

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#5 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 10, 2006, 10:02:00 pm
I love what Howies are doing...just a shame I can't afford any of their stuff.
:agree:

The magazines are cool too. Full of inspiring claptrap. Brilliant.

Shaun

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#6 Re: moon fingerboard review
July 13, 2006, 02:19:18 pm
If you like Howies stuff then check out their sale I ahve just got merino longsleeve for £30 reduced from £50. Good stuff

dobbin

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#7 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 03, 2006, 08:49:27 am
I have to agree, the Moon fingerboard is the dogs bollocks.

Its the first and only fingerboard to have sensible design with holds that dont ruffle your skin or hurt to hang off. You can even use it when you have sore skin - its great and I love mine.

The big man has been watching and has commented on our commenting :

Quote
"The ever popular Moon fingerboard has just won a very prestigous award from those lovely people at ukbouldering.com . We knew it all along but now it's official, the moon fingerboard is "the dogs bollocks". And before you jump to any rash conclusions no we didn't bribe them we don't do that kind of shit. "

MoonClimbing

SA Chris

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#8 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 03, 2006, 09:17:17 am
If you like Howies stuff then check out their sale I ahve just got merino longsleeve for £30 reduced from £50. Good stuff

Loads of other stuff on sale at the moment.

bigphil

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#9 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 16, 2006, 12:42:13 pm
Just recieved my nice new white moon fingerboard.  Ordered yesterday afternoon!  Talk about quick service, I is well chuffed.   :bounce:  Lets hope it produces a great improvement in my climbing.

ouch

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#10 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 16, 2006, 04:58:40 pm
How does the moon board compare to the Metolius Simulator board?

drdeath

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#11 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 16, 2006, 06:12:49 pm
It's significantly smaller, less choice of holds, cheaper...

However, i have a metoplius simulator and, although it looks good at the start, it's actually total baws  :wall:

Bear in mind however that i only boulder at about V4 max...so the following advice should come with a pinch of salt...

The only thing its done for me is bugger my left ring finger...:furious:

the edges are pretty useless for open handing and usually ended up forcing me into crimping...the round sloper is too positive and the flat sloper too hard (for me anyway).

I tried to do a similar routine to the one outlined on the moon site on it which exposed the flat edge/open hand issue...i had been happily crimping away for months and wondering why my finger kept getting injured...

All in all i don't like it. Will be ordering a moon board ASAP following the good reviews from this site, so cheers to UKbouldering.com  :goodidea:

Glad i got that out of my system. 

Damian

Aussiegav

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#12 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 16, 2006, 09:21:25 pm
i've got loads of stuff from moon climbing.tee's, pants, chalk bag. i just got the new red big pad. and its great. the pad came really quick, as did the moon finger board. i really rate the products and service. the new pad has loads of innovative functional ideas. its great to see Ben putting something  back into climbing. ben and jerry definately the best of british climbers of the last 10years.

ouch

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#13 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 17, 2006, 02:40:20 pm
the edges are pretty useless for open handing and usually ended up forcing me into crimping...

thanks for the info, I read somewhere that the edges were a bit on the sharp side.

a dense loner

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#14 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 18, 2006, 04:02:06 pm
oldfella i think you have to change your last statement to 25 ;)

Aussiegav

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#15 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 18, 2006, 06:20:35 pm
originally did think that but thought i'd be shot down with such a statement.

lorentz

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#16 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 24, 2006, 02:50:10 pm
OK! Got the board. Arrived thisarvo. On first inspection it feels top notch. Got all the pockets, slopes and crimps you'll ever need. Freakin sweeeet! Can't wait to arthritise myself! To borrow a Nibilism...

YES YES FUCKING YES!
:)


Good price - cheaper , better finished and more aesthetically pleasing than the Metolius simulator I was looking at the other day.

Not only that... great service. The big man himself rang me (:bow:) after I had bollocked up entering my card details and got the everything sorted pronto. :thumbsup:

However to ply or not to ply...that is the question. Whether t'is better to mount on some 18mm first or to the wall direct? I'm no fat bastard (11stones), so think I can get away with just the 6 screwholds. However am living in a rented house so want to minimise damage to (interior) wall if poss.  Handy with a paintbrush, so reckon I can do a decent paintback before we move out. Just thought I'd canvas for opinion while I'm out buying appropriate powertools, screws and Rawlplugs etc. Answers on a postcard... Cheers

Scouse D

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#17 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 24, 2006, 03:29:52 pm
I personally prefer ply because you can then mount other holds onto the ply to expand the training experience without destroying the wall. I would also mount the ply so there is a gap between the ply and the wall to accomodate long bolts/screws. (i.e 2 strips of wood, about 2"x 4" for example, screwed to either end of the ply through which the rawl plugs go, giving you an easily modified surface which is away from the wall).
This also ensures that you hang clear of any door frames.

lorentz

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#18 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 24, 2006, 10:52:06 pm
:goodidea:

Cheers fella. No door frame, but like the idea of bunging a few screw-ons next to it à la mini-systemboard. Will purchase appropriate batten  materials and wad you up next time I'm logged on via PC.

Houdini

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#19 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 26, 2006, 10:16:10 am
If I had one, I'd bolt/screw on good finger jugs at exactly maximum reach to the crimp/slope of the fingerboard.  By this:  upside down/angled and on the door frame (the upright) and some cunningly placed micros for feet too.  All for training that pulling up into toss-ish holds from the deck and blasting up for something at full reach feeling, and maybe some lower ones (over your reach) making jumps.  Anyone done this kinda shit with a fingerboard already?

lorentz

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#20 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 27, 2006, 12:00:58 pm
That's actually a really great idea, but in my case would entail screwing the extra holds on the back of the kitchen door. Not sure how I'd explain sit starts to the landlord! One day... when I own my own gaff. Could be a long time given London house prices!

I have started training sit starts at the wall recently. It's definitely a weak area that needs targetting. Have started doing repeat attempts on just the sitstart to first hold and also been doing climb downs on some easier routes with a (controlled) return to the sitting position. Will it work? Time'll tell.

Not managed to do much climbing this summer because work's been mental, so strength (especially fingers) and stamina have been almost back to square one. It's a great feeling when it starts coming back again though.

SA Chris

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#21 Re: moon fingerboard review
August 29, 2006, 08:44:21 am
You could always just mount one of those cheap telescopic pull up bars below the fingerboard, and adjust the height of that as you get better. Will leave a few screw holes in the doorframe though.

 

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