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Cheedale Cornice Conditions (Read 127661 times)

Ethan

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#150 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2010, 10:29:16 pm
Uber busy down here today, the place just keeps getting drier. Props to Jon for all the re-bolting and good effort to whoever has cleaned most of Nemesis off too! Tried it today, such a brilliant route. Will be back to give the bottom section a bit more of a clean next week.

dod

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#151 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 06, 2010, 11:51:04 am
Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this. left it quite chalked so get on it whilst the opportunity is there. The bolts aren't as bad as the look from the floor:  first 2 are new, 3rd looks old from floor but is actually pretty new, 4th is a bit rusty but ok, 5th is new, 6th is a bit rusty but ok, then round the big overhang on the main face the only gear is a peg, wouldn't want to fall on this but it held bodyweight, the climbing here is really easy and if the peg where to rip you would be ok. Belay is good.

uptown

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#152 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 07, 2010, 10:18:15 am
Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this.
I saw PW 'scrubbing' this the other day, so effort on his part. Can someone start scrubbing TRW for me?  8)

Bonjoy

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#153 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 07, 2010, 11:05:42 am
Cry of despair now clean enough to do (did it yesterday). Good effort whoever started the cleaning on this. left it quite chalked so get on it whilst the opportunity is there. The bolts aren't as bad as the look from the floor:  first 2 are new, 3rd looks old from floor but is actually pretty new, 4th is a bit rusty but ok, 5th is new, 6th is a bit rusty but ok, then round the big overhang on the main face the only gear is a peg, wouldn't want to fall on this but it held bodyweight, the climbing here is really easy and if the peg where to rip you would be ok. Belay is good.
Not sure who did this half arse re-bolt job. Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.

uptown

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#154 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 07, 2010, 02:52:26 pm
Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.

Come on Peakies, I can't believe how popular the crag was last Thursday - and yet what a poor state many of the bolts are in. Great effort by JC on his sterling work, can't someone join in with him though? Nik and I will gladfully sort out a couple of the nook problems btw BJ, I can see why no-one bothers with those anymore. Even if folk can't (or won't) bolt, at least take a good brush down to help out.

Bonjoy

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#155 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 07, 2010, 03:42:20 pm
Yeah, where’s your fucking Dunkerque spirit? Bunch of spongers the lot of you (with a handful of exceptions)!   ;)

Johnny Brown

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#156 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 07, 2010, 03:45:26 pm
Quote
where’s your fucking Dunkerque spirit

Shit, I didn't realise they were all still stuck down there. I've got an inflatable in the cellar, I'll float em out.

dod

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#157 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 09, 2010, 01:24:27 am
Bonjoy have sent you a PM (or think i have)  re: cornice rebolt

MattW

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#158 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 09, 2010, 03:14:15 pm
Anybody think it'll be worth the drive from Sheffield tomorrow night for a session on the embankment or two tier?

slackline

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#159 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 09, 2010, 03:23:18 pm
Anybody think it'll be worth the drive from Sheffield tomorrow night for a session on the embankment or two tier?

Well its not a million miles.....

Bonjoy

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#160 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 09, 2010, 03:25:05 pm
Seepage unlikely to be a problem. Run off from the top might be if it has been or is raining heavily

MattW

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#161 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 09, 2010, 04:10:09 pm
Cheers, might give it a try in that case if the rain isn't so bad overnight.

Neil F

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#162 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 10, 2010, 01:30:43 pm
Cry of despair...
Not sure who did this half arse re-bolt job. Certainly it's a classic route and crying out for a complete re-bolt with resins. Wish I had the time to do it myself! BTW if anyone out there with the knowhow is keen to assist Jon Clark with his one man mission to re-bolt the Cornice drop me a PM.

Cry of Despair has always had crap gear - at least it had when I did it about 15 years ago!  Great shame, as it is very good climbing.

BJ - I realise family commitments have somewhat curtailed your free time, but have you managed to get the Peak Bolt Fund drill out to some of the guys who have got time at the moment?  Doing a comprehensive re-bolting exercise on The Cornice was exactly the sort of project I envisaged for this, but unfortunately the weather has got in the way in recent years.  It is great that JC is getting stuck in, but it sounds like he is concentrating on the harder routes which he wants to do - which is obviously completely understandable.

I've actually done all the easier routes at The Cornice (up to 7c) including lots that haven't been done for many years now, but I would like the chance to climb some of the easiest again.

However, this depends on

1 - the weather playing ball

2 - someone doing the honours with the drill....

Cheers

Neil

Bonjoy

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#163 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 10, 2010, 03:11:14 pm
Last year I rebolted Cosmopolitan/Cordless Madness, but as you know, up until recently the majority of the quality easier stuff hasn’t been dry since the PBF came into being. Certainly the bit between CoD andUne Crime Passionel hasn’t been dry at all and wasn’t dry yet when I went there the other week.
After posting on here the other day I’ve had a number of offers of help from folk who sound like they can be trusted to do a good job. So I’m fairly confident that if the crag continues to stay dry a good amount of stuff will get re-equipped including the sub 7c stuff.
More generally the drill could have seen greater use, but that is partly because most of the folk who’ve re-bolted stuff using PBF resources already had access to a drill.
Fingers crossed for the weather.

Bonjoy

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#164 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 14, 2010, 10:04:29 am
Was down there yesterday. Quite a bit more has dried since my last visit. Extra stuff now dry:
Armistice Day, Who’s Line is it Anyway. Most of the routes between Une Crime Passionel and That was the River, though some still have wet patches and all are V dirty. Cry of Despair, Nemesis, Rapid City, This is the Sea. Some stuff on the far left now probably dry enough. Monumental is not far off being dry enough, though needs a clean to aid drying!

Bonjoy

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#165 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 18, 2010, 08:45:57 am
The drying continues. Almost everything dry enough to do now except for Monumental, Wright to Left, Taylor Made, Jug Jockey and some of the easier ones around Spiders from Mars.
Whose Line has been re-bolted by Useless Punter (UKB moniker not a comment on ability!). The two dodgy bolts on Bored of the Lies have been replaced. Still a fair bit of tidying up of old bolts on rebolted stuff to be done. As removing bolts is not that technical or safety critical it’s a good way for folk without bolting skills to do their bit. Just bring a ratchet and sockets, a weighty hammer, a short crowbar if you have one and if all else fails Kris has a cordless angle grinder he might be pursued to lend out.

ChrisC

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#166 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 18, 2010, 08:56:07 am
Monumental looks like it might dry up pretty quickly once given a thorough (massive) clean to get rid of that sponge like layer of chee-smeg that seems to hold the moisture?

Bonjoy

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#167 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 18, 2010, 09:02:32 am
JC mentioned he might bite the bullet this Sunday!

Norton Sharley

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#168 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 18, 2010, 12:34:12 pm
Whose Line... now fully cleaned and climbable.  Good effort for rebolting it.

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#169 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 19, 2010, 08:59:59 pm
Monumental Armblaster received a monumental clean today.
I only went to 2/3 height. The top wall looked pretty good already.
Still needs a few days to properly dry out now the smeg has been removed.
Needless to say the bolts are shite and in dire need of replacing...JC?
Please form an orderly queue :)

Bonjoy

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#170 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 21, 2010, 08:27:24 am
Saw JC on Monumental yesterday. He’s done some additional cleaning to the first 2/3 and has bolted this section. Top third still to be cleaned and bolted, plus old bolts yet to be removed.

Adam Lincoln

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#171 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 21, 2010, 08:43:54 am
Heading there today for a play. Whats the best place to park, as the guide isn't totally clear.
Also anyone know if the A6 is open again. Was closed a while back. Though i guess you Sheff guys wont be coming that way...

Bonjoy

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#172 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 21, 2010, 08:57:52 am
On the bend at Wormhill

Ru

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#173 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 21, 2010, 04:32:10 pm
Heading there today for a play. Whats the best place to park, as the guide isn't totally clear.
Also anyone know if the A6 is open again. Was closed a while back. Though i guess you Sheff guys wont be coming that way...

A6 is open.

Paul B

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#174 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 12, 2010, 06:24:45 pm
Anyone been today or care to give an opinion? I know the walk in will be slippy and I'll no doubt die walking in by falling in the river or something...

 

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