[mozzer]

OK, this problem at Burbage North.

Firstly is it All Quiet on the Western Front, or Eastern? I only have the two rockfaxes (bouldering+PGE) which interestingly can't decide between them.

Anyway, just how do you do the bastard?

Was feeling a little weak today anyway (best get the disclaimer in early  :wink: ) but couldnt really get to grips with it.

Nicotine Stain on the other hand felt like I was really shaking my tailfeather. What a cool problem too. Next time, damn you...

[fatboySlimfast]

All quiet on the, now i'm thinking about it too, eastern front or western front?
Anyway for the voi normale start on good edge with left hand, right foot on good ledge span to pebble wit right hand then go again for thin slopey crimp on arete. Change feet, bring left hand to pebble , reach to good sloper and match. If its ur first time up here, gib a little , then i go up wit left to sloper and rock up right to another. One of THE classsic probs at Burbage north!

[Bubba]

Errrm I think it's at Burbage North, not South, lardy lad  :wink:

It's "Eastern".

[fatboySlimfast]

wat u on about computer geek boy?

[Bubba]

I mean it's not at bleedin Burbage South you imbecile!

You out later btw? Might try to actually touch rock for once....

[dave]

I'm also sure its eastern front. I think its a pun on the popular saying which i belive is western front.

Being a strong advocate of using reach to bypass the cruxes of classic problems, i span straight from the slot/crimp on the left over to the jug on the right, albeit by a long reach. But if any shorties feel hard done by i think i've done it the other way anall just to make you feel better.

The direct is also superb. Use a cluster of pebbles on the left (hooking thumb over one of them and finger on the other) and a shit fingertip sloper over right to pull up for the jug with RH, left foot on good hold. Bo.

[fatboySlimfast]

Could well be up for some gritty exploits this eve! Have to say got bitten last night at cragx by beasties so wats it like up on't moors? have the midgey bastardos descended?
By the way dave your only fooling yourself with your reach, one day youll find a prob that cant be reached past and where will u be then? Eh answer me that young fella me lad eh, eh?
 :wink:
also, all quiet etc is a book, i think u computer types are aware of them, prob for balancing your desk legs!

[Bubba]

It's been windy the past few nights so I'm thinking the evil bitey things will be clinging to the underside of leaves instead of my scalp. I'll ring you later on...easy about the venue but must have bumbly probs for my knackered shoulder, so not Crag X.

[dave]

If such a problem exists, i will just claim bad conditions/bad skin/too butch/to tweaky/tired/saying myself for another problem etc etc. I've yet to see a problem that can't be overcome by either reach or a good excuse.

[Johnny Brown]

None of you boys got a froggatt guide? Shame on you. Its eastern.
Looks like those cockfax chimps can't even copy well.

Anyone done the superdirect start? Lefthand fingertip crimp, left foot big foothold. Shit sloper righthand, microcrimp left, pebble left, into seam right. Well hard.

Saw this guy at remergence last night - complete wad. Whilst we were there he did every single problem - I kid you not - including Zaff's that I showed him. He even did submergence into the harder sloper problem. Blind drunk was the only one he didn't get straightoff :shock:
Apparently he got strong at Pex, then moved back to sheff. Doesn't climb with anyone known 'cos they're too cliquey'. Has also ticked burbage west - 'except the sit-down to westworld'. Fuck me, I felt like a right punter.  

[dave]

... including Zaff's that I showed him

Which un is this?

Apparently he got strong at Pex, then moved back to sheff

Sounds like Scouse!  :wink: well substitute the word "strong" for "injured".

[Nigel]

Sounds like Mick Adams. He told me he'd done all the stand up problems in the Burbage Valley when I met him at Fairy Steps. I was very interested.

[mozzer]

Jesus.

THought it was Eastern, I used to have a Froggatt guide then had to give it back....

Makes sense about the big span, thats what I thought. Couldnt really see the "go-again" bit with right hand early on as I was being weak.

Had a flirt with scratching on the direct but that wasnt gonna happen either.

It was well quiet up there last nigt seeing as how good the conditions were - top drawer!

[Johnny Brown]

Zaff's goes up the groove between the arete problems and remergence. Pinches on the lip to pull on, then little slopey crimps in 'break'. left foot by your shoulder, on a smear just right of arete pinch. Rock to ledge. Not as hard as I thought tho' - b9?

[dave]

Ah yeah, have seen this before but never wanted to waste skin on an eliminate when i still got classics to do. Will have a look next time.