[r-man]

Firstly, anyone have any names and font grades for these:

- The Piranha traverse (from just left of Miller's tale, using monos and things.)

- The straight up just left of Miller's tale, pinching monos, to finish at the flake (start of White Bait or Flake out Shake out?)

- Oh, and the low traverse - problems 1 and 2 in the rockfax, just right of the easy bouldering.

- How hard is Caviar, in grades I can understand (font grades)?

Secondly, is there any other stuff to do, apart from the usual things on the Kudos wall?

[Andy Harris]

Firstly don't think any of these things have names.

Caviar about Font 7b to the 1st jug and 7b to the next jug.

Piranah traverse must be about Font 7a ish (did it years ago) but a little unpleasant.

Believe there is a rather grim 7c just left of Kudos, finishing in that flake. Quite sharp from a stand up.

The traverse on the right aren't bad but grades depending on how low you are(between 6c & 7b). The lower the harder. There is a really cool 8a+ route traverse (7c font) here that's a real power endurance pump from extreme right to left of the 3 tiers. You'll have to ask someone older than 30 to find out th sequence.

A couple of cool little sit downs right of 3 tiers.
Both sit start on v.low edges, feet on tiny polished things. Easier one gets slopey poket with right and go to top (Font 6cish). Harder one gets slopey pocket with left and dynos up to jug (7a+). It's a funky pocket and some people just can't hang em.

Lots of old eliminates on the 3 tiers to Font 7c+ but difficult to explain.

You could also try Kudos the original way which is a grade harder and rarely done. The big jug at head height didn't exist so you did a dynamic rockover on the polised dish left of it. 7c for sure. I even saw Mick Adams fail to do it the other day!

[r-man]

Excellent, cheers.

Any idea about the straight up left of Miller's Tale, on drilled monos? It's the start to a route, but I don't know which one.

Think my mate may have done the Kudos original method, he'll be happy with 7c - he's always said it felt really hard.

[(woz)]

Just a quick rubicon question to add to the list: What is the sequence for getting from the low starts into the press starting position? do you use the slopy crimp thing below the LH press hold, or is it straight from the rail into the gaston?

[Mark Lloyd]

I think the problem you mean is the start to white bait was in one of the old peak bouldering guides (myers/williams) not sure what Font grade though.
Andy if I got a photo/sketch of 3 tiers with holds marked up could you describe some of the old skool problems a la
what you've done for minus ten.

[fatboySlimfast]

youll be struggling round the cave at the mo, bout 3 inches of green murky water round the route rubicon and the 3 tier section was still muddy....as of tuesday night.....will be drying but its frigging june

[Ru]

Rubicon's all climbable now.

Andy if I got a photo/sketch of 3 tiers with holds marked up could you describe some of the old skool problems a la what you've done for minus ten.

This might be difficult as some of the holds are vague pinches next to much better holds that I doubt would show up on a photo topo very well.

What is the sequence for getting from the low starts into the press starting position? do you use the slopy crimp thing below the LH press hold, or is it straight from the rail into the gaston?

Straight from the rail into the gaston. PS, both left sit starts are graded for matching the sloper, not lanking out to the pocket.

[Mark Lloyd]

Any short mans beta on the start to Caviar, maybe just crimp harder on that open handed pinchy/crimpy thing ?

[dave]

Any idea about the straight up left of Miller's Tale, on drilled monos? It's the start to a route, but I don't know which one.

whitebait start. about font 6cish, maybe.

[al]

There is a really cool 8a+ route traverse (7c font) here that's a real power endurance pump from extreme right to left of the 3 tiers. You'll have to ask someone older than 30 to find out th sequence.

remember this full traverse well - start at the big port hole on the right and swing along the edges (keep off the big break above), with a classic 80's crossover crux on the minging dish thing, then into the low level traverse and up debris - best done in tights, a 'banana' pod chalkbag and two bits of carpet (one for each end)

ps: bubba, getting some wierd font stuff through since the tweaking the other day - see above quote - is this steve jobs or bill gates fault? (can't be mine surely)

[Bubba]

ps: bubba, getting some wierd font stuff through since the tweaking the other day - see above quote - is this steve jobs or bill gates fault? (can't be mine surely)

It's my fault and am looking into solving it....

[dobbin]

There is a really cool 8a+ route traverse (7c font) here that's a real power endurance pump from extreme right to left of the 3 tiers. You'll have to ask someone older than 30 to find out th sequence.

remember this full traverse well - start at the big port hole on the right and swing along the edges (keep off the big break above), with a classic 80's crossover crux on the minging dish thing, then into the low level traverse and up debris - best done in tights, a 'banana' pod chalkbag and two bits of carpet (one for each end)

THis is fun. I tried it years ago and dismissed it as too hard, but finally managed to haul my fat ass up it this summer. Good training and at the moment the end part is shallow water soloing (a new craze?)

[Mark Lloyd]

I've done the poor mans version starting on the arete and doing the crossover on the shallow dish hold (is this the crux)
then along the low traverse. Too pumped to contemplate debris groove.
Might have to try harder if 8a+/Font7c is on offer.
The extra traverse from the porthole looks like it doesn't see much traffic these days, lots of vegetation.
Does this traverse drop low at the start from the porthole ?

[r-man]

The extra traverse from the porthole looks like it doesn't see much traffic these days, lots of vegetation.

Did this a few months ago, but in the opposite direction. Seemed more appealing to traverse to the porthole than from it, with the crux being a crossover on a sloper near the small pockets, and some pumpy moves to finish. We also eliminated the crack, just seemed better, and there was a fun finish swinging from a high heel to the porthole.

Think people often ignore it because it gets wet under that bit quicker than anywhere else, but there are some nice moves.

[Bubba]

ps: bubba, getting some wierd font stuff through since the tweaking the other day - see above quote - is this steve jobs or bill gates fault? (can't be mine surely)

This is now fixed throughout the database - if anyone finds any other strange characters, please let me know.

[Mark Lloyd]

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