[superfurrymonkey]

Is there a specified starting position?  I`ve been pulling on with the two opposing crimps and going with my right to a crimp and then out to the angled crimp but my mate has told me you can start with your right hand on the higher crimp, tried it this way and it feels much easier.

[Houdini]

Of course it feels much easier your mates way!  He's cheating, that's why!

Start from the lowest crimps - or better still - fuck it off, get your botty damp, and deal with the new SDS.

[superfurrymonkey]

Yes sir, right after my vigorous rimming sir!!

[Jim]

looked at this today. Recon you need a high pain threshold. Looked a lot harder than V6.

[Monolith]

yeah those are some super sharp crimps on Harvey Oswald. It's a class problem and the grade always seems to be contested. I think V6 is perhaps just shy of what its actual grade is. The sitting start looks class, last time I was there the recess in the ground was totally flooded, but presumably with recent weather is ok. Incidentally, how does anyone who's done/tried it pad the problem out? The ledge at half height looks a back breaker, and no doubt a mat would slip if you fell on it. Attentive spotters!?

[Houdini]

It's a class problem and the grade always seems to be contested.

I flashed this years ago.  I thought I was damn good for doing so as I'm tiny and terrible @ jumping.  Then I spoke to Kratz who said something along the lines of, "Don't worry mate, you're still shit.  It's overgraded it at V8."   "Why did you give it V8 then?", "'Cos I didn't know how to grade back then."

The stander really is just a nudge of a move before a jump.  English 6c, so V6 seems very fair.  I know a V5 that I find much harder.

Didn't have a mat back then, but I did have the Jez Stephenson spot, which don't come much finer.

Every problem on small holds still seems to get the same response ie - it must be harder!  I think this is due to people not warming their fingers up before putting in serious attempts.

Harvey Oswald, Top Name.

[superfurrymonkey]

Last year it felt desperate just to pull on the thing, just had two weeks off my longest break in 2 years and got it 3rd go, found the 3rd move to the sloper hard but the rest felt well within my ability if I was taller or stronger reckon I could go strait for the jug!!! going to try the sds soon as   

[Jim]

while were on about that area, jez's wall - V4, would a V4 climber ever in a million years get up it. No
Blonde bombshell, superb problem but not V5 around the 6/7 mark IMHO

[Doylo]

its v6, one move v6's are hard.

[Houdini]

I'm a stud!

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=doyler




EDIT - And Jez (Q: What do you want from the bar?  A: Whatever...) Stephenson, will wind you up til the cows come home.  It's his job.

[Doylo]

I'm a stud!

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=doyler




EDIT - And Jez (Q: What do you want from the bar?  A: Whatever...) Stephenson, will wind you up til the cows come home.  It's his job.

nice 1 Mr Barker.

[Houdini]

You're welcome, big boy    And that's Ms. Barker, Doyler.

[Pantontino]

Jim, what sequence are you using on Bombshell?

I only ask because it was always considered to be easier than Marilyn Monroe. People even used to cheat on MM by moving a big block in the break at the start. Gladly that has been removed.

[Monolith]

The reach-through on MM is pretty long. Would be interested to see shorter climbers doing it. I'm 6 ft 2 and found it quite a way, suppose there is always a minute patch of rock to be used as an intermediate? Can't really see how wedging a block in the starting foothold would help!? That was one of the most enjoyable parts of the problem I thought.

[a dense loner]

on BB used obvious sequence to big hold, left hand on big crimp above, left foot on obvious low foot under roof and throw with left hand for top, mantel. didn't try MM too wasted and didn't believe it was possible at the grade offered

[Jim]

Did MM and BB today. thought BB was about right a V5 but thought MM much harder especially the cut loose and mantel top out.

Si or anyother N wales knowlegables, where is King Creole at milestone? couldn't find it or if we did its utter log

Also if you've not been to Idwal cottage crag yet, go. Its as brown as my trousers on the last move of Idwal arete (which I reversed off from half way through it  )

[Pantontino]

I haven't done MM for a few years so I'd need to go back before I could make a meaningful comment, but I do recall it being pretty full on. Back in the day I did it 2 different ways: one getting the lip with my right, one with my left. It's always worth getting maximum mileage from your local classics.

King Creole is easy to miss as it is hidden in a narrow ravine which you literally walk over the top of. It climbs a lot better than it looks - I'm guessing you did find it, but thought it too shite to be worth bothering with. The start is often wet, but when its dry it gives a very cool problem (honest!).

[dave]

that idwal arete is well jackson. was effing boiling when we did it, proper spaceball. i seem to remember theres a well hidden jug around the arete somewhere for the top section, luckily.

[andy_e]

Idwal arete is fantabbytooby. Parked right beneath it, had people standing on top of my car spotting, tunes blazing etc... great setting, brilliant moves, oh well, next time!

[dave]

i thought that was a private road or something.

[a dense loner]

had people standing on top of my car spotting, tunes blazing etc...

i really think you need dave's avatar.
i thought that but there were no private road signs yesterday and the wardens came past us without saying anything.

[cofe]

had people standing on top of my car spotting, tunes blazing etc...

i really think you need dave's avatar.
i thought that but there were no private road signs yesterday and the wardens came past us without saying anything.

had they been eating superglue sandwiches?

[Jim]

possibly but at least we didn't have tunes blazing, pissing other people off who were out enjoying the tranquil country side and generally giving climbers a bad image.
 

[Pantontino]

Idwal arete is fantabbytooby. Parked right beneath it, had people standing on top of my car spotting, tunes blazing etc... great setting, brilliant moves, oh well, next time!

Idiot.

[SA Chris]

andi, you have the cheek to greet like a bairn when someone smites you and you still post crap like this. Tool.

[andy_e]

possibly but at least we didn't have tunes blazing, pissing other people off who were out enjoying the tranquil country side and generally giving climbers a bad image.

The one time that anyone walked past, we turned the music off.

No Chris, i deserved that, this has nothing to do with opinions.

Ah well, you're only young once.

[Mike Tyson]

Ah well, you're only young once.

Dont be a prat forever though.

[BenF]

I haven't got a clue how you could make a highball any safer by parking a car underneath it.

Andi has a pick-up with a cherry picker attachment.  On the end of the boom is a pad that can be positioned under the climber, no matter where they are on the problem.

[a dense loner]

i even deadhang in silence, out of respect for jonathon

[Somebody's Fool]

My current affairs is getting shocking.  I had no idea Britain's premier exponent of Hop, Skip and Jump had stepped off this mortal coil.  Well done to a dense loner for showing due respect to the achievements (and piousness) of this great man.

[Johnny Brown]

Or could he mean Seagull? In which case I believe an emphasis on training pure technique and  transcendental meditation might be more appropriate than strength.

[SA Chris]

Ah well, you're only young once.

I'm sure people up and down the valley smiled and thought that when you spoiled their tranquility.

[Houdini]

You been to Milestone Buttress lately, Chris?  Admittedly, access isn't so easy these days...  what with Alfred McAlpine AND Whimpy building estates throughout the valley...

[Monolith]

Did what I assumed was the problem today until I just read the contents of this thread 

Pulled on with a low left crimp but started right hand on decent crimp locking up to left crimp then top. Then tried the sitter and made the move up to the two opposing crimps but didn't sort my feet out. Really psyched for this now although a tad less grease would be nice.

[BenF]

a tad less grease would be nice.

You need to keep that greasy merseysider off the problem then.

[andy popp]

Visited the Pit for the first time yesterday, v. good. How about this for a potential killer link; sds to J'sA to jug, reverse down PT, then up HO, which would be virtually from the sds position I think, much too hard for me but looked quite logical.

[Pantontino]

You're damn right Andy, that would be a killer link. Did you notice the Gaskin-esque line up the wall between JA and HO? I have a feeling that will fall next winter.

[c.j.d.]

Easy now Mr P - I was keeping that one quiet.  Have new van, will shoot mouth off (Ha ha - looks nice.  You are now a nuclear family) .

[Pantontino]

Obviously not that quiet, as it was widely discussed by all and sundry on the recent NWB meet.

[Monolith]

Did you notice the Gaskin-esque line up the wall between JA and HO?

Exactly how I thought of it. The high crimp on that line isn't incut at all so moving off it would be incredibly impressive. I've thought about coming into JA from low left then up out right off that crimp but to go direct would be sickening. I've stuck the hold in this capacity but couldn't envisage how a direct move into it would be done. Good effort to anyone getting close.