[JaseM]

Hi Everyone.
Whilst bouldering today (quite sunny down south)I managed to put a hole in my fore finger pad about 1cm long to the point where it was bleeding.
Has anyone got any good tips for:
a) climbing with a split tip (not worth the effort?)
b) speeding recovery
Any sensible ideas and suggestions will be greatfully received

[sasscotty]

I did the same thing on grit I just pack a fair bit of climb on inside to increase the speed of recovery and put a plaster round it until it had stopped hurtin then let nature take it course.
I think it took me around just over a week to fix my finger.
hope Iv helped abit.
scotty

[JaseM]

Cheers,
Will stuff aforementioned hole with climb on. As far as the week recovery is concerned it is pretty much what I anticipated. Can't not get out for that long though so I shall just have to avoid small crimps on that hand.

[Paul B]

I find spits are really bad for re-ouccring, never really found climb on to be any better than normal (cheap) moisturiser. Make sure you file down the hard skin surrounding the split and constantly keep it moist or else it'll tear again.

[Jim]

I would advise against putting a plaster on as it stops the air getting to it.
Also if you really need to climb on it, the best way is to get some of the thin strapel tape, make sure the tip is free of chalk, start one side of the nail, go over the nail and round underneath the finger, over the split keeping it nice and tight and them back over the top to the otherside of the nail. A clean tear and press down to make sure its well stuck down. A dab of superglue on the join helps the tape stay properly stuck but you will probably need to change the tape after ever couple of problems so I wouldn't bother. This way, if you get the tape tight enough, you will only have 1 layer of tape over the split which will give you maximum feel but hold the split nicely together and doubled up on the top to hold it on well enough. The downside is you will have to renew the tape frequently.
Try to stay off them sharp crimps!
There is the other method of 1 strip of tape from the second knucke on top run lengthways to the second knuckle underneath and then wrap tape around the tip and again around the finger next to the 2nd knuckle but I don't rate this much as you don't get much feel with it and it uses alot more tape and takes a while to do when properly done.
Word

[monkey boy]

Just keep skin filed and tape it up! Splits shouldnt really stop you climbing! Once you get used to pulling on it, it actually dosnt affect you too much!

[JaseM]

Nearly healed now (as if anyone is interested). Kept the finger exposed to the air (no plaster) so it dried the 'fresh skin'. Climbed on it taped up. Monkey boy you are spot on it doesn't stop you climbing but it does feel a bit weird, though it was soon forgotten when I go a problem I had been trying for a while 
I taped it by using a thin strip of tape wound around the finger (quite tight), starting at the top so there are no 'lips' of tape to snag on rock and pull it off.
I then placed another thin strip starting halfway between the first and second knuckles on the outside. This then went diagonally along the finger and over the top so wrapped once around the pad and then back down the finger. This formed a cross on the first knuckle.
Same otherside.
Worked a treat for me