[Simon S]

Well if your in the west country at any point then cheddar gorge quarry is the place to head. All of these are about 30 feet long!

Greed                             7b+
Insatiable                        7b (classic)
Bursting the wave             8a
Split rambo                      7b
Holdloss                          7b+
A day called zero              8a
Crystal gale                     7a+
Raw deal                         7a

For starters!

[webbo]

30ft long and those grades.if it was not hundreds of miles away,i could be tempted in to buying a rope again.

[Andy F]

Bouldery 7a-7b recommendations?

I've been told that Hartley Hare is a good one to do, I'll try that next time I'm there... any others?

'Tis indeed a good bouldery route. 7a if you slink of into Pupplejumper, 7a+ if you finish the correct straight up method, and much better that way.

[Houdini]

The Untouchables, Dinorwig Slate. 

Smaller than a set-square from a Helix protractor set.   Fr 8a (maybe a little harder now after Herr von Kratz pulled an already sicca'd hold off it a few years ago).

[saltbeef]

Cheers gents, I will report back with tales of glorious success in a couple of weeks (probably...)

think success will be based purely on the premise it stops raining...

[Paz]

Greed                             7b+
Bursting the wave             8a
Holdloss                          7b+
A day called zero              8a

Fuck me si, I was onna suggest the Wave but thought it miles away.  Have you been on or even done any of the above - what's they like?
Milimetre Wall is probably Nik's cup of tea, apparently a 7c slab of similar length with only a four to six move crux to a good hold. 

There's loads of things that are `essentially' bouldery (or slabby) too, with easy climbing up to or after the crux, that you probably only need 6b+ stamina for.  For me the big thing last year was getting fit enough to work routes effectively.  Working out how not to get knackered resting on a rope, or recover before I got knackered on a rope, to throw in some bouldery shapes at my limit.  And getting on routes.  And being arsed to go back and polish shit off or even spend days on the same thing.  Repeat visits is the key.  And not letting go, that helps too.  And taking big falls.  And making the damn clips cos then you have to fall off the climbing or take a big fall with slack out.  And getting a grigri so you're not pumped from locking off an ATC holding your mates arse.  Of course the most useful thing to have before you start is a big bag of route recommendations and beta.

[Simon S]

I wish-only on 7as at the moment. I'm hoping to try and get some more done there when the weather improves though(and I get fitter).
The two 8as look horrendous-real finger fuckers,remember the finger tape.
Your spot on about a Gri Gri! Essential kit for a day of dogging!

Let me know when your down that way next and need a belayer.

[Paz]

Yeah cool, will do!  Was down last night and did the new 6 left of Split Rambo (this has only got two cobwebby old 8mms in by the way) and Grope The Slope and the thing to the left, but most of the seepage lines there are all pretty wet at the mo.  My mate did Islands in the City nonetheless.  I'm not really recommending the routes I did to people who live 200 miles away, just mentioning them so's people get an idea of what's dry.  Which reminds me - more usefully the whole of Boulder Cove at Brean's surprisingly dry, or was on tuesday. 

[Houdini]

You want short sport?





Ask - and ye shall receive!





http://www.flashgames247.com/play/370.html

[dave]

Eat the rich 7c+, on water cum jolly, is good, three bolts long about V5?

i'll second that, is a reasonable route and maybe 7c (just).

word went to have a go on this route last night. Am i to assume that these days people just lower off the crab on the 3rd bolt rather than pulling over that loose looking roof at the top to finish at the loweroff desbribed in the cockfax guide?

As for the route it did seem good, having watched scouse work it i flahsed up to the 2nd bolt (whihc would probably be about V5) then we found the bit between the 2nd and 3rd bolts to be harder than anything below. question.

Also, what is the line of assorted bolts right of the Inch Test? looked like soemthing with an adequate smattering of holds, not as black looking as inch test by a long way, the odd 1980s troll bolts and a thread etc. doesn't seem to be listed in the cockfax or the '99 bmc guides?