[sasscotty]

I recently bought a simulator fingerboard from Metolious.
I can do all the training workouts that they have on their site and I'm starting to find it rather boring now. Does any body have any other tips or tricks that can make my training a bit more interesting or intense do I just have to stick with it?
than guys
scotty.

[Paul B]

have you checked out the simpson article on moonclimbing.com?

I have always found it really hard to stay at all motivated for fingerboard sessions.

[superfurrymonkey]

have you tried adding weights?

[Dave T]

Hangboards are for max strength not AE work as in the Metolious workouts, do that kind of stuff on a wall.

Check the Simpson article, good workout that one.

Try doing some repeaters, add enough weight so that you can't hang for more than 10 secs, 5 is maybe better, then hang for as long as you can, rest for 5 secs, hang again, rest 5 secs, repeat for 5 hangs, rest for 2 minutes and change grips. Go through a few 2 finger combinations and small, med edge, pinch etc. Rest for 15-20 mins and repeat the whole set if you can. Pretty intense but great for building finger strength.

Try to do as much one arm work as you can, maybe try seting up a pulley system to take some weight off so you can hang from some of the edges etc.

One arm lock offs, uneven grip pullups, etc.

Plenty of stuff to keep you going for a while and whenever it starts to get too easy then just drop an arm or add some weight. Remember to rest enough in between sessions to recover properly.

[monkey boy]

I have that same finger board  and also get very bored by training so i tend to make up problems on the board. Using the door frame that is about 1 foot below the board.

Some problems have lots of moves in where as others tend to be very hard with just a few. Although i only use mine when i am back from uni i dont get that bored on it doing this kind of thing.
In easter i did 5 1 hour sessions in a week before i went to switzerland and it definately improved my finger strength as this is my weaest area.
Like Dave T said it is important to add weights and do 1 arm stuff as well as doing moves that are at your very limit!

[sasscotty]

just one last question people:

how do attach wieghts and what sort of weights do they have to be??
thanks.

scotty.

[SA Chris]

  Why is there no banging your head against the wall emoticon.

Attach some heavy ones to your feet and go swimming?

Use a harness, some slings and karabiners and attach anything to it. How much depends on you.

[SA Chris]

 

Not a moment too soon!!.

[Paul B]

you just beat me too that.

[sasscotty]

haha sorry guys i really should think before i type really

[dobbin]

a good idea if you want to build up to Jared Roth like 'sick crimp strength' is to set up a pulley hanging off the middle of the board, tie a 10kg (adjust as required) plate to a piece of sturdy tat and run it through the pulley. Fashion the other end into a handle and use it to counterweight as you do one armed hangs (so you hang with one hand and press the handle down with the other).

Of course, I dont need to take any weight off. In fact I sometimes hold a Mini Metro in my free hand whilst one armed deadhanging. And although Jared advocates training the fully crimped position I would be properly warey of heeding him, for one he has a dubious haircut, and for two I worry about straining the joints. You should crimp only when absolutely necessary.

[Paul B]

You should crimp only when absolutely necessary.

pah...crimping is THE way forward 

[a dense loner]

and 3 jared is like all the other sick crimp monsters having to walk sideways over a grid so he doesn't fall down it

[Paul B]

Has that got anything to do with the amount he rotates when he hangs? never seen anyone twist so much deadhanging.

[Houdini]

No.

The ego's too big to pass through the slits.   






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