[DScuffle]

I'm a bit confused over where to start Jerry's Arete.  Does it go on the left hand side right from the floor, or do you move to the left after you've pulled on from the right of the arete (nice big hold).

Haven't had a proper play on it yet, but don't want to go at it half cocked when I finally get to it feeling fresh.

[Bubba]

Left side all the way pretty much - not finished it as yet myself, but you start at a hurty finger-jam thing and work high on that (can use right foot on big ledgy thing). The crux seems to be working right hand high on arete, then letting go and matching with the left. Apparantly from there, the rest is fairly steady up the left hand side to the top.

Lots of people flash it so save it 'til your fresh, it's cold and go for it.

[dave]

You have to start from the LHS of the arete on the floor  - i think that big hold on the slab is out. You wanna get a kind of Left hand undercut/jam in that crack, pull up paste yer feet on high foothold, than kind fall leftwards over with RH onto a shitty pinch bit on the arete, then fall LH again next to it on the arete (crux like bubba says). The RF up into crack and away you go.

[Bubba]

this is of course assuming we're not talking the Bridestones here!

[Bubba]

i think that big hold on the slab is out.

Seems a bit eliminate to miss it out for your foot?

[dave]

this is of course assuming we're not talking the Bridestones here!

I recon the title of the thread sort of rules this out. :wink:

I dont remember thinking that hold would be any use really. Are we on about the same hold? surely for a foothold it is miles away? When its cold and you're felling OK the method mentioned should work, although the pull-on with that undercut/jam thing can feel wierd at first to get your foot up.

[Bubba]

Ok, ok, smartass   :D

I seem to remember pulling up from the floor using the slot and the arete, then plonking right foot onto a big hold on the arete (almost a heelhook) that would be useless as a handhold, but good for a foot.

It'd probably be too crunched up for a lanky bugger like you...

[dave]

[DScuffle]

I feel all inspired now.  I'll hopefully try it this weekend, weather permitting.  

Due to travelling up from sunny coventry every weekend, we always seem to start climbing in the midday heat.  Gonna try coming up later this time.  Do the conditions improve drastically when it cools down in the evening, or is it much the same as during the day?

[dave]

Depends. If theres no breeze then sometimes the rock will actually give out the heat its gathered during the day, so its no better. However if there a breeze it can be proper bo. I remember last year most of the harder problems i got done were in may/june evenings, when it got windy, shady and really cold.

[Sam]

Sorry to hi-jack the  thread, but what are the grades of the problems right of J's arete? The crimpy one over the lip up the top (apparently Robin Barker does it on some video) and the easier one further right? B6 & B5 or am I being hoplessly optimistic? Also what's the consensus on Jerry's Arete - B7/8? Cheers, Sam

[Bubba]

Not sure, never done those problems.

Consensus on Jerry's Arete? Dunno - lots of people flash it, but then it's still quite tricky - V6 ?

[dave]

jerrys is a strange one - some flash it, other people can't touch it. B7 if you're the former, B9 if you're the latter, and everyone in between probably B8!

not familiar with the other probs.

[dave k]

Where exactly is Jerry's Arete at Cratcliffe? Is it mentioned in Rockfax Guide?

[Bubba]

Yes, it's in the guide...but it's at Robin Hood's Stride, over the far side away from Cratcliffe.

[ian h]

re the above picture

i have never put my left hand like that always the other way up

[dave]

thats plain wierd - i though everyone had the left hand undercutting/jammed like that photo. you get a good fingerjam in.

[ian h]

yeah finger jam everytime.

never occured to underut. i never been there when anyone else has been on it

[dobbin]

My hand was facing t'other way too, you can get a finger lock thing to do the first move.

Top is easy, but quite scary, but for Andy Brown's shouting I would never have done it.

[Adam Lincoln]

Qualidy problem. Did it yesterday for the first time

Anyone know what the problem is to the left of it. Same block just on the blankish wall to the left, starting from a short vertical crack thingy. Upto very poor slopey ledge, and not many footholds?

Also, whats the problems out of the cave up and further round. The ones with good footjams?

The on the left via two blobs is brilliant. Big blind jump at end for jug! What grade is it? Felt weird?

[dave]

the things in the cave are in the cockfax guide.

i think the thing to the left of jerrys is a project of someones i expect.

[Bonjoy]

Slopey ledge to  top has been done, but i don't think the low start has been added.

[Adam Lincoln]

Slopey ledge to  top has been done, but i don't think the low start has been added.

Really?!  :shock:  Starting straight from the slopey ledge?

You would have to be 6ft 5  to reach it from the ground? Maybe we are talking about something different.

[dave]

how hard is slopes to top? also is mammory serves me correctly aren't those slopes milies out of reach off the floor?

[Bonjoy]

Will consult Farrar and find out the facts. However he is pretty lank. Doesn't the bank rise steeply to the left allowing a reach across?