[Paul B]

Last time i visited there were loads of rusty old cans, big blocks and crips packets, one of the larger blocks even had tissue paper coming from underneath it (I didn't decide to investigate further). I guess dave could have done some cleening since then.

The problems there and the rock quality pale into absoloute insignificance compared to the likes of the crag with no name and Kudos wall.

[Scouse D]

i think the give away was when you said "last time i visited". Dave has put a lot of effort into this cave and it is now clean and has 2 extremely good hard problems.

[cofe]

the lines are pretty impressive and the lip trav thing should become a classic.

[r-man]

The rock quality? What's wrong with the rock quality?  ???  Anyway, half of Kudos has been glued on. It's more solid than that.

Having seen Andronicus climbed, and either seen people climb, or seen videos of the hard stuff at Rubicon or the other place, Andronicus is the one that looks the most impressive to me.

Hannibal is certainly as good as anything else at that grade.

[Paul B]

Dave has put a lot of effort into this cave and it is now clean and has 2 extremely good hard problems.

Fair enough.

[dave]

unfortunatley i had the camera set to "wack"

Known to most folk as 'jpg'. Why oh why?

don't worry there were some shit raw files aswell. and contrary to popular belief if the photo is shit to start with you can't rescue it with raw. "you can't pollish a turd" etc.

[Johnny Brown]

Actually you can. You could have rescued that one. And look at what Polish Dave did to Tom's cave. They don't call him Polish for nothing.

[dave]

i could have butchered the fuck out of it, but it would have still been shit, just shit with different white balance and contrast. you can't alter the rear curtain, iso or flash after the event.

[a dense loner]

strange that the phrase "you can't polish a turd" should be used in a thread about tom's cave

[r-man]

Anybody have any idea what the conditions are like at Nuda's Tartan? Does it get wet in the rain, does it seep, how long will it take to dry off?

[Tb]

Was there last month whilst it was raining heavily and although the left hand bit was wet, the right hand side stayed dry under the double roof. Not sure about seepage?

[cofe]

it does have a bit of an undergrowth toupee which might lend itself to run off. hard to say.

[r-man]

More esoterica that we discovered a few weeks ago (after glimpsing another climber through the trees). Carry on past Raven Tor and there's a bridge on the right. Cross the bridge and walk over to the obvious wall on the right. Looks like trees have recently been felled here - so perhaps it was hidden in the past?

Rock gets chossy higher up, so probably not much scope for routes (you never know, I could be wrong). The bouldering is all quite high, and the finishing break is a bit mucky. We did all the obvious problems - the best is probably the slight groove left of centre, with some snatchy moves. Around the ft6c grade.

There is some potential for a couple of harder things - the blank line left of the groove maybe, or perhaps a traverse, but it would all need a bit of cleaning. The left wall also has some very hard looking lines, but the some of rock is a bit suspect, and the landing gets dodgy.

[r-man]

Anyone know anything about this?

Tarantula - V10


and this


How do they relate to the other problems at Nuda's Tartan, especially the V10 - is this a low start to the 7b or something?

[(woz)]

As far as I understand it "tarantula" is what Ian Farrar did at v8.

[dave]

the v10 just looks like a bad sequence on the v8.

[Ru]

I think there are access problems for all of the buttresses on the opposite side from Raven Tor. I have been asked to leave there in the past (about 5 years ago) from a different buttress to this one. However, I do know the person who is responsible for the management of the river banks along the dale so I'll ask him. Might be worth staying away till we know for definite.

[ben8522]

Not bad effort , have been down alport a few times .

Have done the lip traverse sticking more religiously to the lip not going under the roof , felt more natural this way - 7b V8 is about right.

Did three more problems in this area:

The direct roof problem -
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.

The problem i did Submission V5 which cuts through the roof to the jugs

and an easy V3 on the edge of the roof.

 

[dave]

The direct roof problem -
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.

having watched that video again this V10 looks very similar to the sequence lovejoy used on the V8 lip traverse.

Theres also an Iain Farrar-Monch problem coming out from the back chimney of the roof (i.e. about a meter or so right of the guy in that vid, the top right of the photo below) and heading towards the lip where the "V10" meets the lip. not sure what grade this is but strong lass posted this photo of us trying it. seems a pretty obvious line, logical start etc.



I think the problem with this roof is that there are holds all over it, with many similar and interchangable problems available, the only limit being the pain tolerance of the climber, and how dry it is. Would be a ballache to write a proper guide here since half a dozen groups of climbers could visit and each end up claimbing a totally different bunch of "obvious" lines all on top of each other.

[cofe]

The direct roof problem -
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.

having watched that video again this V10 looks very similar to the sequence lovejoy used on the V8 lip traverse.

i'm not convinced word. looks much more like pharoah monch's problem. lovejoy used pretty much same sequence as us on v8 apart from a slightly different start.

[ben8522]

Would be handy to have a chat with the relevant climbing parties in question sort out lines and problems. Will be down at the venue at the weekend, sat and sun !

[Bonjoy]

Ok, the one claimed as Tarantula is what Iain did and gave 7b+/7c. The way I was trying it was slightly different to the way Iain and the chap in the vid did it, but seems in the same ballpark, more a diffence in sequence than a diffent prob.
The lip trav can be started a couple of ways but is 7b either way (can't recall off the top of my head if the FA of this is Iain's or Dan's, but i'm sure it will be in this or another thread), either way  I think it's worth topping out at the end rather than dropping off at the jug. The last couple of moves are good, not very scary and no pushover when you are pumped, ie part of the natural line.

[dave]

I went here today and did a problem starting bridging up the back (right of the V5 in one of those videos) and crossing the roof from undercut at the back, a slot and a pinch in the roof to the jug pocket at the lip (then finished as for the 7b traverse cos above was minging wet). Probably in the 7a+/7b ballpark, it could be new, so don't be shy if anyones done it before. nice problem, worth doing along with the traverse. you could also do it spanning straight from back to lip, but i think you'd hit the tree when taking the swing.

Here is a quick photo - you'd never know i used flash on that one. subtle.



The V5 those guys have done in that vid is also very good. pocket a bit painful though. also the problems on the RH section seem good although most holds were sopping today. would be great in a summer heatwave i recon.

[dobbin]

What do you wash your tee shirts in Dave - Daz?

[dave]

I don't know anyone called Daz.