[live4climbing]

im looking to buy a quality pair of bouldering shoes which have

good rubber

good fit

tight round the heel

what do u guys recomend iv been looking at scarpa visions or red chilli x-cubes and those new red chilli coronas but any sugestions are welcom 

[lorentz]

Not an expert but I reckon it totally depends on the shape of your feet. The shoes are all made off different lasts and so some makes will tend to fit your feet better than others. I got scarpa visions cos my 1st toes are loger than my big toes and red chilli's just really dug in and were just too uncomfortable. Your best bet's to go to a decent shop run by guys that climb and ask advice. Try loads of different pairs on - before you go climbing, not after a big session when your feet'll be mangled and'll fit in anything!

In my experience the visions were a good choice for me. Soles are pretty technical - ie got a good enough edge to stand on some really, really tiny features, but they're comfortable enough (for me) to wear for long periods of time.

Another good tip is to get the right size. I usually wear 9s or 9.5s but wear 8.5s climbing. The guy who sold them to me said so it was so the lace could basically get more of a squeeze on my foot, but there was still room enough not to totally bend my toes over. Hope this is useful to you - sorry if it's stating the obvious at all.  Happy shopping

[wannaclimb8a]

also depends on what type of bouldering you are doing.some boots are better on grit than limestone and vice versa.i climb in 5.10 laceups for pretty much all my climbing though i have some x-cubes which are absolutely crap indoors,the rubber has no grip at all inside but seems ok outside but still not a patch on stealth rubber.not tried the new onyx yet



rich

[sasscotty]

just go to a good climbing shop that has a wide veriety of rock shoes and just try on loads and see which are best for you

[Jim]

what sort of rock do you normally climb on and how hard are you looking to climb?

[Will Hunt]

Not the visions. My pair has worn through quite fast and are less technical than I thought they would be. Not to say they are a bad shoe but they are less for bouldering and more for comfort. That said I can easily walk, jog around Pex Hill for the whole day and not have to be taking off shoes all the time.

[Paul B]

If your looking for a limestone shoe the new evolv agro look pretty damn good, they look strangely familiar though.....

http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=299

Dont know if they compare to v10's in performance but I had a pair of predators and they were outstanding on limestone, the rubber seemed good too.
Recently I had a pair of scarp vortex LE's that were great at first but as soon as they rounded off theyre crap. Seemed to happen very quickly as well.

[Moo]

definatley check out the new anasazis since they changed the heel they are even better than before new rubber seems pretty good too.

[Phil D]

La Sportiva "Viper" is a mega slipper, loads of grip, great at smearing, edges and standing on "nothing's", jury out on how long the new vibram rubber will last. Most of my bouldering over here (BC,Canada) done on granite and Gneiss.
However still trust the 5.10 pinkies (C4 stealth) for desperates, not tried the onyx yet.
Cheers Phil D

[Phil D]

Anyone got any feed back on the Montrail rock shoes?

[Moo]

i got a pair of the zealots, very soft feeling shoe, not quite as sensitive as you might like. They are awesome, on smears, with one the best fitting heels i've been able to find. They are a bit of a pain to get into due to the design, so you can't get them on and off very quickly but thats no major gripe atall. the build quailty on them is generally good, though i've seen a few glueing problems around the toes and heels. I reckon they are a good font shoe, but they lack support on edges, and are a little narrower on the front than other brands. one of the up sides is the gryptonite rubber, which is most excellent indeed dare i say approaching the level of C4/Onyx zen.

[Phil D]

Excellent stuff, I've just ordered a pair of Zealots, looking forward to trying them out.

[Moo]

  pressure on the review hope you like them dude.

[Phil D]

Naye pressure at all mate, ordered them a couple of weeks back but sounds like an alright shoe by the sounds of your feedback, looking forward to giving them a whirl.
Cheers 

[Richie Crouch]

Just wondering if anyone has tried out the 5.10 Galileos yet and how do they compare with the sazi velcros old and new versions for edging/smearing/heels/toe hooks..etc

I find the old style heel shocking which has put me off getting another pair of velcros (even though some people said it had been vastly improved, are the Galileo heels a tighter fit?)

[webbo]

i've got a pair of galileos and although the heel fits much better in that its not baggy.i can still pull the heel of my foot when i've cranked the velcro as tight as it will go.i wear mine for most stuff outside other than heel hooking but i can't say their any better than anastazis.

[Bonjoy]

 Tried some Gallileos on once, was appalled at the heel fit. Like webbo found, no matter how tight you get them they can still be pulled off your heel by hand. Totally useless for heel hooking IMO. Tried a pair of the new type Velcros this week, these felt next to perfect and the heel fit was very good.

[Toad]

I have a pair of old style Anasazi Velcro's and a new pair of Galileo's.

I could lash the Anasazi's up as tight as a ducks butt and still the heel would slip off.
The Galileo's however, seem to fit the shape of my foot extremely well with no impeding heel slippage.

The Onyx rubber is definitely more superior to Stealth IMHO, smearing and edging well. Have only tried them on sandstone, granite and limestone (no grit yet  ) and have not been disappointed…

[andy_e]

Tis my turn to invest in a new pair of boots... two main contenders (price playing an important factor)
1. 5.10 Moccasym (the red ones) - look good but i've been told they are crap for edging which is important to me.
2. 5.10 Anasazi Slippers (the blue ones) - no idea about these, they're just cheap...

Input please! 

[Scouse D]

both are excellent but moccasyms bag out a LOT. Buy the slippers- I've had 3 pairs and have not been disappointed, they are a very good shoe.

[unclesomebody]

Sharma's only climbed 8C in those baggy moccasyn's so I would be careful about buying them...

[Ru]

I think 5.10s only fit and work for a lucky few people:

McClure, Sharma, Graham, Loskot, Nicole, and I think Rich has been lucky with the fit in the past.

[live4climbing]

what about the mad rock flash i tryed them on and they where a tremendos fit and seem too fit all my criteria

[SA Chris]

I'm on my second pair of Flashes and really like them. Good fit (for me) and cheap. Heard stories about them not lasting, (although that may be just the Mugens) although my last pair gave me a year and a half of hard use, but you may get less than that if you are a sloppy plopper.

[Red Dwarf]

Just wondering if anyone has tried the LS Venoms...they arrive in NZ in about a month (or so) & I've been thinking abount treating myself...