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Chipped hold- Burbage West (Read 2613 times)

Johnny Brown

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Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 06, 2003, 01:36:01 pm
Anyone done the problem between 'The Nose' (B8 done by spoon on vid), and the 6a warm-up arete to the left. Same start as the nose, shuffle left then hug yer way up then hanging arete with a crafty knee-bar. A little known gem. Always found it dead hard - til this week. The high right hand hold (which you can check from the ground) seems to have developed a positive cusp. Not much but it sure don't feel natural.
Maybe some dick thought they were doing a new problem - i've always thought it was wierd it wasn't in any of the guides. :twisted:
go check it out and post your views

Johnny Brown

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#1 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 07, 2003, 01:24:13 pm
No one arsed about this then?

Bubba

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#2 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 07, 2003, 01:29:14 pm
It's not that I'm not arsed, but I've not been out that way recently and I'm not familiar with the problem - If I'm out there I'll get a piccy so we can all see the damage....

dave

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#3 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 07, 2003, 01:34:58 pm
Maybe scouse can have a look if he's out there 2nite? I ain't been there for a while.

dave

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#4 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 07, 2003, 10:53:00 pm
Had a look at this tonite - i can see why it could be thought of as chipped cos it is on an otherwise uniform bit of rock, it looks a bit orange under the chalk and personally i remembered it being uniform, but that only a hazy memory. Scouse however is ademant its not chipped, or at least it was like that last time he saw it. I'm not so sure, the jury is out.

Scouse D

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#5 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 08, 2003, 09:51:46 am
The hold hasn't changed in the last few months cos (strangely enough) I feel that hold quite alot when I go there. However, as Dave says there is a dark orange tinge to the rock under the chalk and I can't remember if the hold was any different in the past. To me it honestly doesn't look chipped.Worn, yes-but not chipped.

Johnny Brown

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#6 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 08, 2003, 11:43:54 am
Guess this is the problem.... I haven't really been on it since the autumn, and its loads better since then. I can't talk for youse, but my skin ain't tough enough to wear away rock.

I think this kind of subtle hold enhancement is a big problem - a couple of taps with a rock, some over enthusiastic wire brushing, and you knock a grade and a half off a problem. No ones too sure, you get away with it and no chisel required.

Anyone done Andy Brown's wall, Earl crag? Exactly the same. Crucial crimp has gradually got more and more positive - probably didn't take more than a wire brush.

Anyway, its good to see that two of cared enough to go and check it out! My faith is ( :? partly) restored

Scouse D

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#7 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 08, 2003, 12:13:53 pm
Indeed it looked like the hold is no longer "as god intended". All we can do as a community is make sure we stay vigalent when out bouldering-if you see anyone fuckin with the rock- speak your mind.
you could also take the approach which was used on the Pex Hill chipper- grab him by the neck and hang him over the edge of the crag whilst lecturing him on the ethics of chipping. i.e "you little f*ckin sh*t, you f*ck with the rock again and I'll f*kin kill you, you scrawny c*nt"
(excuse the poetic license but you get the idea)

dave

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#8 Chipped hold- Burbage West
May 15, 2003, 10:45:28 pm
After feeling it again tonight i'm now convinced its been fucked with. Nice one dickheads.

 

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