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Classics on merit (Read 5324 times)

Bonjoy

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Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 12:00:24 pm
This thread is intended as an antidote to the same old same olds on the Rights of Passage thread.
 If there's got to be a list, make it of the problems which are the very best on merit alone. This may include some of the old 'classic' where they are worth the hype, but not where their main claim to fame is simply being in the middle of a popular spot, close to the car, being well known/historic and being hypes in countless books/mags. Let's face it if Jerry's Trav (stanage) was in the woods below Gardoms and called Colin's Eliminate Traverse it would be an object of derision. So strip away the baggage and give me the problems which if scooped together into one circuit would be the true best of the best.
 For starters 15 deserve to be classic peak 7s:
  WSS
  Tierdrop
  My Buddy the Apple
  Spare Rib (it will never be Brutal Arete to me)
  eatswood traverse (if you are going to have one traverse it has to be this one)
  The Alliance
  Autumn
  Big Al Queda
  Beneath the Breadline
  Brad Pit
  Western Eyes
  Sauvitto
  Soul Power
  Deliverance
  Low Rider :wink:

Falling Down

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#1 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 12:28:40 pm
A good list Bonjoy - lots I've not done on there so I'm printing it off and keeping a slip in the guidebook for the next time I'm requiring inspiration on a Saturday morning.

To slightly take issue with your 'same old same old' comment... the thread was about 'rites of passage' rather than 'classics' and as such require a certain degree of public recognition and shared experience... or am I getting too far up my own arse here  :oops:

Bonjoy

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#2 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 01:45:13 pm
Yeah, I know FD, I was just being provocative. But is is noticable that requests for variously themed lists tend to churn out a lot of the same olds.

cofe

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#3 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:04:16 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I was just being provocative.


you tease. :wink:

is alliance 7a?

Bonjoy

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#4 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:17:46 pm
Good point, swap it for Brass Monkeys (for burl monkeys) or Help the Young (for Monkeys who like sticks)

Stubbs

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#5 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:34:29 pm
A few Yorkshire nominations:

Widdop
Pickpocket's Crack
Splashdown
Fight on Black

Caley
Pocket Rock
Yule Tree Arete
Ben's Groove
Nothing's Safe (will be classic)

Plenty more where those came from!

Johnny Brown

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#6 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:39:57 pm
Like the idea and the execution, but forget eatswood traverse - its no better than any of the others. Have Lowrider as the traverse.

Bonjoy

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#7 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:40:36 pm
My Yorkshire knowledge is a bit sparse but i'd have to add:

 Almscliff - Pistol Whip

 Bridestones - Crucifiction

Bonjoy

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#8 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 02:50:46 pm
The thing about t'eatswood trav is it's the best limestone problem on grit, which would explain why you ain't keen. Maybe it could be swapped out for Westwood, which is pretty mega and just about in the 7s camp.

moose

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#9 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 03:19:53 pm
Quote from: "Stubbs"
A few Yorkshire nominations:
Caley
Pocket Rock
Yule Tree Arete
Ben's Groove
Nothing's Safe (will be classic)
Plenty more where those came from!


Always loved the eliminate on the first Creme Egg myself: odd but great moves (so long as you don't slip and scrape away half your arm).  Also where do you actually start Ben's Groove? I can reach some pretty high holds whilst standing on the boulder which I presume would not be cricket.

Anyway, some more Yorkshire goodness:

Pair in a Cubicle - Brimham (Fantasy League comes highly recommended, though not done it yet).
Red Baron - Shipley
and an easy one Right Hand Twin - Slipstones (loveliest moves on a V2?).

Re Pistol Whip - is that the project groove behind the Egg boulder? What kind of grade is it? Any good beta?  I could do with something to work on at Almscliff that isn't viciously overhanging.

Bonjoy

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#10 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 05:04:56 pm
Yes it's the vague groove in wall behind the Egg.
 Can post pics and beta when at home.

Fiend

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#11 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 05:09:19 pm
A Little Mofoing Sparkle!

al

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#12 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 05:23:45 pm
how about the two classics on the fourth cloud boulder (think 2 & 4 in ru's book) - the best around for my money (not sure if they squeek in as 7's?)

Fj

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#13 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 06:10:44 pm
High Speed Imp Act for steep reachy juggy action.
Mint!

Doylo

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#14 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 06:14:35 pm
i'd nominate Master Kush as a classic hardcore line

Stubbs

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#15 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 06:50:35 pm
Quote
where do you actually start Ben's Groove?


Undercut with left and right hand sidepull on the groove.  Crux is getting the pocket, but the mental crux is everything above that!

Lostboy

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#16 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 08:05:13 pm
Where is My buddy the apple?

Jim

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#17 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 08:28:30 pm
rowtor, at the bottom

Duma

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#18 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 08:37:21 pm
everything on the fourth cloud boulder is ace, and the grit is the finest of all.

Fiend

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#19 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 08:45:31 pm
High Speed Imp Act did look very cool and particularly wild...

Fiend

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#20 Classics on merit
March 31, 2006, 09:21:36 pm
More, IMO....

Staffordshire Flyer
The Cube
Stall Arete

Heart Arete
Brad's Arete

Basically any fucking arete anywhere in the country to be honest.

The Nose ONLY if you're too short to reach the decent hold.
Crescent Arete RHS only

Pommel
Whiskey Galore
Flying Arete
Pebble Wall

(yes even Almscliff has a good problem or two...)

I'd like to vote AGAINST Pair In A Cubicle, come on the only intrinsic value apart from sanding off your nipple calluses, is the comedy for the audience.

Manson's Wall.
Nice Arete @ Earl
Ron's Reach
Not My Stile

Errrmmmm did I mention about aretes? I'm struggling to think of true quality classics that aren't aretes...

Any classic in the Welsh mountains apart from the fucking Edge Problem.

Mestizo (SP?) @ Dumby, class.

Bonjoy

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#21 Classics on merit
April 01, 2006, 10:02:42 am
Quote from: "Lostboy"
Where is My buddy the apple?

At the Eagle tor end of Rowtor, at the bottom of the hillock.

Bonjoy

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#22 Classics on merit
April 01, 2006, 10:08:40 am
Quote from: "moose"


Re Pistol Whip - is that the project groove behind the Egg boulder? What kind of grade is it? Any good beta?  I could do with something to work on at Almscliff that isn't viciously overhanging.


Given 7c originally, but more like 7b/7b+.






grimer

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#23 Classics on merit
April 01, 2006, 10:40:37 am
A problem of Justin's, in the Staffs guide, called Milky Buttons, a scoop above the fourth cloud boulder, left of the crack of Boysen's Delight. Do it next time you're over. Oh, and Finger of Fate is pure class.

uptown

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#24 Classics on merit
April 04, 2006, 03:37:00 pm
Quote from: "Fiend"
A Little Mofoing Sparkle!


Like it Fiend - Only if done the 'real' way. :wink:

 

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