Mile End climbing wall (east london) has just installed a couple of matrix boards in its campus room. Walls with letters up the vertical access and numbers along the hoizontal which I guess is to formulate routes up its selection of real fingery little holds.
So far so good, but has anyone got any pointers as to how to use them in conjunction with my campus training to improve - especially in the area of finger strength and just general reach and technique? There are instuctions on the wall but I don't really understand them. Am I aiming for lots of repetitions of routes/ timed climbs up and down again or am I better striving for a route that's a bit beyond my (fairly average) capabilities in order to improve?
Would ask some of the guys in there, but don't like to break their concentration or put them out of synch with their timed exercises.
Any advice gratefully received, cheers.
Lorentz
