[Fiend]

Had a look at these today, were in better condition than the Eastern Edges, but still not good enough to climb (backed / slid off one routes and blew out a small friend placement, doh). BUT there seems to be some pretty neat looking routes there, and the new guide covers it well. The Big Quarry at the end looked like it would be particularly good for the bumpy boys when bone dry, but some other bits looked good too.

So if any Peakies fancy some quarried grit, are bored with Millstone and Lawrencepit, and don't fancy the trek to the mecca of quarried grit that is Lancs, have a look at Rivelin. Good for a dry breezy day when the edges would be too windy, or a busy weekend when the edges would be too busy.

I'm gonna go back for:

The Two Toms - looks nice, sure it will be good in the dry.

The slab right of And Now For... - looks a top quality slab.

maybe Portnoy's Complaint - big arete, was pretty green though.

Crab Waddy - another good looking arete, looks to have just the right amount of pro too.

Awkward Willy - good tricky looking thin crack.

Dextrasol - cracking corner line, would be a classic if it were at Millstone.

maybe Paddington - possibly asking too much but a great looking slab.

Oh and finally, nik you should be well chuffed with That's My Lot - such a totally pure line, it goes beyond a climbing line and into the realms of contemporary architecture  :wink:

[dave]

i agree paddington looks weapon, keep meaning to go and do that and have a look at bare necessities. How fucking kubrick does feet neet look anall?

[nik at work]

Feet Neat looks awesome, can't believe I never tried it.

Flex and The Final Overthrow are both very good.

A really really good crag.

Did you ever get on Paddington Fiend? You did mention trying it a while back didn't you? Another great route.

The final quarry bit (inbetween the bouldering and the Feet Neat, Paddington etc bay) is rubbish though, don't bother.

P.S. Cheers Fiend I do like to think of myself as a Frank Lloyd Wright for the modern climber...

[Fiend]

No, never got the confidence up, even at the old grade. Hopefully I'll be able to give it a try soon, as you can tell the recent recce got me inspired.

Teddy Bear's Picnic looked like a cracking route (for you lot) too.

And Snivelin Rivelin was the route next to And Now For... that I was thinking of...

All good stuff, it's like having a bit of Lancashire on your doorstep  :wink:

There was chalk on some of the easier routes when we looked so someone's been out recently, good for them. Now a lot more chalk on the start of Two Toms lol.

[a dense loner]

here's me thinkin you'd have brushed it off :wink:

[Fiend]

Well I would have, but, it's gonna be damp enough soon to wash it off, the quarries could do with more chalk (kills lichen) rather than less, and I was struggling to back off the route let along brush off the holds  :shock:

[uptown]

Anyone know if That's my lot or Earthboots have had repeats? [/quote]

[grimer]

i think scut might have done earthboots

[grimer]

hi andy have you seen dan's vid? i'm sure that's why i think the above

[nik at work]

I think that Scut actually fell off the last move (he stood on his own rope if memory serves) and then couldn't be arsed to try it again. He may well have gone back and done it and I could be completely wrong, but I'm pretty sure thats what I heard.

[grimer]

that sounds pretty plausable for scut.

[Huffy]

Scut stood on his laces and slipped off the tiny foothold (amazing feat of accuarcy) but i'm sure would have cruised it otherwise. Shy Mike Gardner (Mr Spray maine) has done it.

[uptown]

Shy Mike Gardner (Mr Spray maine) has done it.

Do you know if he agreed with the 6c grade or did he think harder?
(it's just that I've never climbed 7a before, it'd be nice to know for sure.)

[Fiend]

Woohoo, managed to get back in the recent good weather (crag was in perfect condition) and had a good afternoon ticking...

Two Toms - pretty nice, good climbing, quite a lot of faffing getting enough gear (take all the micro shizzle you have).

Crab Waddy - cool route, does exactly what it says on the tin, tasty climbing a fair way about bomber gear. Maybe worth 2 stars?

Dextrasol - a classic, great line, good gear, proper interesting corner climbing / 3d squirming. Definitely two stars at least - why was it underrated with one!?

Awkward Willy - well named, good line, quite a pig to get started on, I had a wobbler, more fun above.

I didn't try: Snivelin Rivelin (too lichenous, might go back and brush it), Portnoy's (just not as inspiring as C.W.), Paddington (had a long hard look at it, and realised it would be a full on 8m solo up slopey looking territory to the gear slot, I couldn't justify that at the grade).

But I did have a quick glance at Delivered as I abbed down Awkward Willy, and that looks rather good - bold, exposed, but safe. Something to go back for

Also wandered along to the bouldering area, problems look cool, neat little spot, despite the festering sheep carcass (came off the top of Happy Campus it looks like, WTF of course sheep can't campus, the hooves don't work).

I was liking the convenient trees at the top of most routes too, sport climbing style


P.S. Once again thanks to the BMC crew for the guide that's accurately documented these esoteric places and got me exploring them with good faith as to what I might find. Cheers guys.

[nik at work]

Wahey, more rivelin quarries talk. Is Delivered the new David Simmonite route? If so there is a nice hard direct start to be had there.

Paddington is very good, but like you say somewhat bold-looking.
The variation E3 on The Bear Neccesities is quite nice, and when you're cranking up the E5's there is a direct start to Paddington (or the Bear Neccesities) using the obvious mono which isn't in the guide. And Flex is just brilliant, everybody who wants to do an E6 slab should do that one.

And the other projects yet to go:

The wall left of Rhodedendron crack. Start at the left hand side of the face, mantle onto the narrow ledge, a hard dynamic move up to some poor crimps then trend rightwards to better holds and an easier finish. The rock quality at the bottom is sadly not that great, and the poor crimps appear to have been 'improved', although there still shit.

The slab right of Thats My Lot. Very obvious and hard.

Get to it kids.

[Fiend]

Is Delivered the new David Simmonite route? If so there is a nice hard direct start to be had there.

Yup that's the one, and yeah there is a fair chunk of empty rock beneath it.


Wall left of Dextrasol?

Nik's Wall Right Hand? (was a bit of chalk on the original - the Walk On By of Rivelin Quarries...).

Also did I see a rather neat looking arete in the penultimate (and gash) quarry?

[nik at work]

Wall left of Dextrasol?

Had a brief look at this but it was slightly silly break to breaking, when you could traverse out, just seemed a bit rubbish to me.

Nik's Wall Right Hand? (was a bit of chalk on the original - the Walk On By of Rivelin Quarries...).

Ooooooo, how high up did the chalk go? Has someone repeated this problem? Anybody know, or any opinions (interested to hear peoples view about the grade)? Not sure where a right hand Niks Wall would go. I seem to remember that there was space for an eliminately, but just very few holds.

Also did I see a rather neat looking arete in the penultimate (and gash) quarry?

That quarry is gash indeed. Thats the first bay I climbed in at the quarries, it's a wonder I ever went back.

[Fiend]

The chalk seemed to go reasonably high actually, can't remember if it was to the top, definitely high though, maybe 6 micro-holds chalked? It wasn't fresh chalk from the recent dry period, probably from earlier in the season, but there was some there whilst happy campus and ian's arete didnt have any really.

Maybe that's what the sheep was working...

[Bonjoy]

The slab right of Thats My Lot. Very obvious and hard.

 I remember trying this on a rope with Si Jones, back in the way back when.

 I have heard of people going to try Nik's Wall and mostly failling to pull on!

[nik at work]

Yeah, Tom and I tried it on a rope also. Really hard first move or two  then relatively not to bad if I remember correctly - with a couple of pads and a decent spotter it could probably be bouldered fairly safely. Although it's probably in a somewhat Kermit-esque state...

[Fiend]

I have heard of people going to try Nik's Wall and mostly failling to pull on!

I got both feet off the ground for 0.05 seconds! But then the conditions were good and I was feeling strong...

Needs a sitter really  :roll:

Slab of TML would be pretty safe I reckon, landing is fairly stable and it doesn't have the worrying drop-off/tree-stump combo that's beneath TML. Maybe one for a ground-up padpoint then, that would please JB  :wink:
It is green but not filthily lichenous, a good all-over scrubby in pissy conditions (i.e. now) and then a brush when dry might see it good.