[(woz)]

ok, so i'm hitting the lakes at the weekend, or more specifically St Bees and the Bowderstone. What should I be thowing myself at? I'm looking for classics, soft touches :wink: , and preferably ones which require a minimum of technique up to V10.

cheers,

dan

[Nigel]

St Bees:

Basically the only V10 there Tim's Crack looks pretty involved and might well be damp, but if are looking at up to V10's then you'll have a better day ticking the all the mid-grade classics like Hueco Crack from low V7, the arete at Fisherman's Steps V6, Clash of the Titans V6/7, Chippers Wall V7, Undercooked V6, Headbanger V8 (here's your (very) soft tick!). Lateral Mindset is always a good one to try as it won't exactly tire you out, unless you find running hard work. And its well worth the effort. Yellow Desert Scream is the other tricky thing there but its E6-ish high and a bit technical.

Bowderstone:

Anything here will suit. Ears of Perception is the easiest V8 by miles if you get the beta right, that's your softy. Power Pinch and Picnic Sarcastic Sitter are the other classic V8's to do and again aren't too bad if you can get good beta. Impropa Opera is possibly the best problem there and is V9 so you could also add that to your list. If you're dying to try something given V10 then the quality goes down I'm afraid, the best V10's there are the links into Power Pinch and Impropa so you'll have to do these first anyway! The other V10's are shit or not V10 (i.e. XXXX!).

Best of luck... :

[Greg C]

Just to correct a couple of my learned colleagues St. Bees pointers...

Tim's Crack - Is V9
Hueco Crack - Is V5
Undercooked - Despite what that to-bit LakesBloc guide says this is called "The undercut scoop" as the gentleman who named it "Undercooked" made the mistake of thinking the line had not been climbed before, and as he named it after himself I feel it needs to revert to its classic name. So there  :wink:

On the Bowderstone topo Inaudible Vaudeville gets V8+, this is an error, it is V9 but basic so (although its not V10... or Fnt7c+ as we say in these parts  :wink: ) it my be the ideal tick your looking for.

[Bonjoy]

Isn't Hueco crack 7a and better from a sitter?
 For my twopenneth I thought Headbanger was 7a max, easier than Clash of Titans 7a+.

[Fiend]

Yellow Desert Scream is the other tricky thing there but its E6-ish high and a bit technical.

See Bonjoy's grovelling fear-fest ascent on the Beardown video for essential beta...

"Might need a hand here"  :wink:

[Greg C]

Jonboy wrote:

For my twopenneth I thought Headbanger was 7a max

I'd agree with that.

[Nigel]

That's what I was getting at with the "very" soft bit!

[dom]

Hueco Crack - Is V5

when did that happen?

anyone got good beta for this?  last time i tired it i managed it from a crouching start, but sititng start holds seemed a bit out of reach.  I could get from this to up high, then it seemed like a lot of thrutching was involved.  is ther a better way to this.  I'm heading down next weekend, hopefully i'll tick it.

[(woz)]

In the end our trip didn't happen (Caley sat + caley/almscliffe on sunday) but thanks for the info. Trip rescheduled for a couple of weeks time.