Scottish goings on (Read 14393 times)

SA Chris · February 01, 2006, 09:34:37 am

John Watson (him wot wrote Stone Country), has started putting info on developments in Scotland here (for anyone interested). Our developments at Muchalls from last summer get a mention.

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Palomides · February 01, 2006, 10:48:06 am

Chris, is this you?

I dunno, I thought you'd be errr....... taller.

Fiend · February 01, 2006, 10:55:07 am

I can confirm that Chris is 18'2" and I've heard that that so called V2 is actually multi-pitch for most climbers...

SA Chris · February 01, 2006, 11:21:02 am

Quote from: "Palomides"

Chris, is this you?

I dunno, I thought you'd be errr....... taller.

Yup, that's me.

Try to understand that the photo is not life size. I am 6 ft 2" or so, not sure if you were expecting Kareem Abdul Jabaar or something.

I've had enough people off this site complain about me being too tall in the past.

SA Chris · February 16, 2006, 10:29:31 am

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/02/new-portlethen-testpieces.html

Updates. Anyone know who this "Luke" bloke is?

Falling Down · February 16, 2006, 11:01:43 am

Nope... but why are you wearing Larry Grayson style glasses holders

SA Chris · February 16, 2006, 11:44:27 am

Arf Arf. As I had no intention of doing any DWS that day I wasn't wearing contact lenses so had to wear glasses. The only thing available to prevent them from ending up in the sea was a shoelace from my approach shoes, so needs must, as a plund would have cost me (another) Â£50 or so for glasses.

Such is the life of a specco like me. The subject of ridicule from his mates.

Falling Down · February 16, 2006, 12:22:07 pm

I'm a speccy too.... :

Nibile · February 16, 2006, 12:32:06 pm

me too.
you cant imagine how ridicule i am on pr0n movies sets... :D

dom · February 16, 2006, 03:15:29 pm

Quote from: "SA Chris"

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/02/new-portlethen-testpieces.html

Updates. Anyone know who this "Luke" bloke is?

think he may be at aberdeen uni, i've climbed with chris at portlethen before, he's ex abdn uni.

looks like some nice problems

Fingers of Jelly · February 16, 2006, 08:17:31 pm

I know Luke cos I was there in the photo!! (The 'fat one' in the blue T-Shirt!) :shock:

They're all great problems, anyone in the Aberdeen area should check them out!

Luke is indeed a Uni Student. Expect some amazing things from this guy, he's only been climbing a year!! Not only does he have some stupidly strong fingers and bags of natural talent, but he's a totally decent guy as well! :

No I'm not his agent!!

How goes it Dom? Tony tells me your getting some serious climbing in?! Good on ya mate! :D

P.S. I've seen Chris in the shop and he was more like 20' 3"!!

SA Chris · February 17, 2006, 07:59:41 am

How tall does that make Stuart S then?

Looks like I am going to have to build barbed wire fences around my projects now.

Fiend · February 17, 2006, 08:28:27 am

34' give or take a few inches.

Still at least none of you are Kiwi Seb...

SA Chris · March 06, 2006, 08:54:23 am

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Nice effort Tim. Looks like it was a productive few days across the country. He certainly keep plugging away at the place.

SA Chris · August 11, 2006, 08:34:34 am

blog has been updated, now with "classic" scottish problems. That crack looks gnarly.

Some good articles in the link to Dave Mac's site.

R.J. · August 12, 2006, 11:10:01 pm

My parents have just moved to the Isle of Skye and I've just been up there with my brother to Carn Liath mentioned in the most recent stone copuntry blog entry.

That place is AWESOME.

There are literally thousands of boulders there and hardly any have been developed. We found 3-star line after 3-star line and simply didn't have time to clean stuff up. There's potential for some seriously hard stuff too. Granted, it's probably as difficult to get to as Font is for most climbers located outside Scotland but I'd recommend a trip there if the forecast is good.

Check the first 3 snaps in my flickr account: http://www.flickr.com/photos/robingjones/

Greg C · August 14, 2006, 12:43:02 pm

Those problems look first class, nice one cleaning them up. Great settings.

Its a shame that a certain screwball has tarnished the perception of Skye bouldering, as it looks truly excellent!

sharkey · August 14, 2006, 06:30:51 pm

Looks very enticing, how much has been done, and what type of rock please, i can feel an Autumn trip coming on.

Pantontino · August 14, 2006, 07:39:24 pm

I've just recieved a review copy of Gabbrofest - essentially a bouldering map for the gabbro boulders in Coire Lagan produced by James Sutton. It's a very nice production, and you can read all about it here:

http://www.betaguides.com/

and here:

http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2006/07/gabbrofest-out-now.html

tc · August 14, 2006, 10:25:25 pm

Does it include those mythical V15s or is it more of a real world guide?

R.J. · August 14, 2006, 10:43:43 pm

Word.

Can't take credit for that Mr Ben problem- someone else had cleaned that up already. Giant Haystacks is one of ours though.

As for type of rock- I'm not sure what the actual name of the rock type is. I'd liken it to a much less vicious version of gabbro- still grippy but not as likely to cheese-grate you down to bone if you slip. Pantsoff, what's the rock at Caseg Fraith? - It's very much like that stuff.

As for how much has been done- well, we've barely touched the tip of the iceberg. Many of those boulders you see in the panoramic shot have deep bases out of shot. Most boulders have 2-3 usable sides with several potential lines. There is potential for loads of cave routes with proper top-outs. Highballs a plenty, slabs, crimpy problems, sloping problems, the list goes on. The field extends behind me from where that shot was taken, up to and around the sheep-dip boulder mentioned in the SC blog. There's also a further extension out of shot to the right and a ridge strewn with boulders (some awesome potential there) dividing the two areas. You could spend weeks and weeks finding high quality lines of all grades and probably months to years putting up two-star problems.

A word of warning though: the rock is essentially untouched so holds have been subject to freeze-thaw (big up da GCSE geography massive) for millenia and can come away in your hands (not good on a highball). Landings are very much Porth Ysgo-esque with potential for damaged ankles or dissapearing down a hole. So big mats and spotters are a good idea. The walk in is about 45mins but not too strenuous. The biggest draw-back is the midges- if there's no wind, you'll be eaten alive. Take a head net thing and repellant. Still, I've had the same experience in the pass on some sumer eves so I wouldn't let this put you off.

I'm gutted I can't go back there for a year. Try to get a GPS point for each problem you clean up and do as it will be the only way of mapping stuff in such a densely packed area. As for those V15s etc, don't know but even locals seem to think it's all bollocks so I'd just ignore it- it's all a bit played out now anyway, lets get on with some proper developnment- it would be a shame if the climbing on skye was tarred by one person's poor reputation.

Hope this is of some help,

Cheers,

rob

SA Chris · September 13, 2006, 12:56:14 pm

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Joh Watson is obviously a man of impeccable taste.

SA Chris · October 03, 2006, 12:45:18 pm

http://www.stonecountry.blogspot.com/

Rare sighting of the SoC almost climbing on video.

unclesomebody · October 03, 2006, 12:54:11 pm

That has made my day. V15 downgraded to V4.

dobbin · October 03, 2006, 01:38:48 pm

I think we should go Unc, then we can be 8b climbers too. I reckon I could even flash v4! 8b flashes! perhaps people will give me free shit then.