[Paul B]

After a 3 week layoff at christmas I managed to tweak an A2 on my left hand ring finger. After a few days rest I climbed again. The day after it was painful so I decided to take some time off. After a few days of icing I switched to ibuprofen gel which seemed to help a lot more. Layed off this today and as I had no soreness I went to the wall.

After a long warm up (squeezey ball thing, jugs jugs jugs...) I tried climbing openhanded, It didnt hurt at all like this, I avoided crimps and any holds you can pinch with your fingers crimped and it seems fine afterwards.

Also did some deadhanging at the end, totally open on a campus rung, I was just wondering if this is asking for trouble? and if not what do you people who deadhang do? It didnt even seem to niggle it at all and theres no swelling now.
(I guess there will be an article on moonclimbing soon after the release of the fingerboard)

Is this the way to go until i can crimp again?

[Nibile]

go easy and tape it.

[Paul B]

Rather not tape it, The session where I taped it I pushed it a bit too far and felt it the next day.
Stu, you must have some insight?

[Nige C]

Paul, long time no see.  Basically if you can climb without pain open handed, you're probably not going to do much more damage, open handed doesn't put as much strain on the A2 (if it is that) as crimping due to the mechanics of the finger.  However, climbing at all increses the chances of you having to crimp and thus, reinjury. So maybe best to leave it.  You won't loose too much strength, just very your training to focus on the arms for a few weeks.
   Think Mr. bell's in the same boat as you at the mo.  gimme a shout if yer heading for wales/ireland.
 
      Nige

[Stu Littlefair]

Paul the general rule should be to climb as much as possible as long as you can get away without further damage. Further damage means pain at the time, or significant swelling afterwards. Aim on the side of caution and stop when you're tired.

[Paul B]

Thanks stu, basically what I thought, anywhere I need to crimp or squeeze harder than I can without pain I just drop off. Good to work on the weaknesses. (open strength, flexibility,footwork,technique.....)

Alrite nige, nice one on that problem in Parisellas.
I was going well before christmas but even with just 3 weeks off id lost loads of strength. Heard Ricky had screwed his finger. Ive never done any bouldering in North Wales, fancy port ysgo sometime and showing me some prob's in the cave?

[Nige C]

Any time, just gimme a shout....

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't give up on icing that mofo still, especially after a session. Some massage of the are when it is healing is supposed to break down scar tissue.

[Dom W]

i wouldn't recommend taping it. the limited research done on the area indicates it does very little ( even good quality zinc oxide like strappal stretches very quickly) + it is likely to lull you into a false sense of security regarding crimping.

Nigel C is correct - do some arm work or (carefully) use openhanded grips on a fingerboard as this a very controlled "environment"  unlike climbing where you may be forced into crimping.

depending on the severity of the A2 rear it can take many months to heal fully.

good luck and be patient.

[Dom W]

ps. seek advice from a physio / sports therapist who has an interest in hands.

it's inevitble you will get scar tissue from an injury. the important thing is the injury is managed properly so that the collagen fibres that make up the scar tissue are laid down in the strongest pattern.