Gossip , mess in Frankenjura The first repetition of John Gaskins to the problem of Markus Beer mug comes surrounded in controversy. The aperturista is not created it, and it says it. - 27.07.2004 By Jordi Shepherd To the British bloquero John Gaskins seems to persecute his past to him. When the mythical Hubble, first chained a pile ago years already 8c+ of the world, obtaining therefore the third ascent (after Horseradish tree Moon and Malcolm Smith), nobody believed to him. Its highest level in block at a time at which this modality not yet was so fashionable, had confused to many...Then, spent the time, and in spite of counting already on two serious proposals of 8c of block in its file ( Pirate Il , Walk away ), its last repetition of first level does not arrive free of controversy. He is at least what gives off published in Web å.nu, whose writing has received two letters that deny and confirm, respectively, that Gaskins has recently signed the first repetition of Gossip , 8c of block of Markus Beer mug in Frankenjura.Indeed, Markus Beer mug was the sender of the first letter, in which it assured not to give no credit to the repetition of Gaskins. "Why I (and the rest of climbers of Frankenjura that has proven Gossip ) I do not create to him", it asks reflectively, and next it shells five reasons on which it bases his serious doubts. In order to begin, "Monday 5 of July I taught Gossip to him and how to scale the key sequence. John proved it during average hour and, but no of the hard movements climbed. I was with him all along ". In addition, Beer mug adds that Gaskins told a different way him to solve the block, but "is not different. Michael Kaisser (he has scaled many hard blocks aqui ') in the last tried that sequence during some time two years. It measures 1'85 m and said that it needed 10 centimeters to arrive at the following song. John is on 1'72 of stature!The arguments of Markus Beer mug do not finish there. The German bloquero assures that the previous day verified as Gaskins had problems to solve the key movements of a passage of å, and their suspicions go further on when, after to have seen his little progression in Gossip , "it told me that the same Monday in the morning had solved Zerberus (8b+ of block) in one hour".Beer mug assures that it stopped before this block and it asked to him the Briton on the sequence: "this happened minutes after it scaled 7c of block that is directly to the right of Zerberus ". The German either does not seem to give too much credit to another one of the fast repetitions of Gaskins in his recent visit to Frankenjura, "said that also Riot Act had repeated, 8b+, in the day, the same one to me that had arrived at Frankenjura, Tuesday 29 of June", and mainly remarca, like voice of all those that have proven Gossip , that "is not possible that it has done it". That butcher.Gaskins responds With received missive footpaths in å.nu (the writing sent the letter of Beer mug to Gaskins), the Briton has responded. "I was one with Markus while it climbed. Later, I teach myself where it was Gossip ", but the Briton explains that "he had been scaling that morning and I did not climb in the evening; then I proved Gossip briefly at dusk, although specially he was then not centered, since my woman (nonclimbing) and I took one nine hours climbing and knew that she wanted to go away ".Gaskins adds that in the following days "I worked a sequence totally different (and easier for my ') of which Markus had used the first day. By the way, the day that I scaled the problem I found an improvement more to my sequence than it was the key for the linking, specially when it is tomorrow allied conditions, and the fact that always burglary better in the morning (generally encalo a greater number of high degrees before the noon, that later). In addition it clarifies that "the distance is certainly smaller, and on better you take hold, that between the songs of my block AT the Heart of it All (V14, 8b+ of block in Woodwell), that also crosses a ceiling".Perplex Yes, perplex the Briton confesses itself on the declarations of Markus Beer mug around his fast resolution of Zerberus , 8b + of block. "As Markus knows, badly I was informed into the exact line of the problem and for that reason I did not scale it, although previously to discover my disinformation thought that it had obtained it". In his second letter to å.nu, John clarifies in addition who "the line that I climbed (as Markus knows) was not neither 7c nor Zerberus , but rather one between averages of both and using songs of the two".Besides to correct to Beer mug in some of the dates of its linkings (it assures that not blocó Riot Act in day of his arrival to Frankenjura), Gaskins affirms that its only attempt to the passage of å went in addition beats to the flash. In order to finish, and after clarifying that he only tries to add a perspective to "minimumly founded" commentaries of Markus, and not entering a crossing of declarations, the Briton is "saddened of which people try, with malicious claims, that I have not scaled all these problems when I have worked so it last during many years".
the line that I climbed was not neither 7c nor Zerberus , but rather one between averages of both and using songs of the two".
